Securing seat slats
#11
I'm building 2 more Adirondack chairs. I used 2 1/4" wide cedar boards for the seat. 

Last 2 chairs I used 2 screws on each end, but that did cause some splitting.

I was thinking this time, to apply glue to the board ends, and use 1 screw on each end to secure it.

Bad plan?

Or, if anyone has a good trick to avoid splitting.  I pre-drilled the holes and countersunk each one

tia.. Dave
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#12
Did you plug the screw holes after installing the slats? Adding plugs with glue may help keep the ends from splitting...


Another Dave
"One should respect public opinion insofar as is necessary to avoid starvation and keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyrany, and is likely to interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
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#13
Did you pre-drill the holes for the screws?
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#14
I pre-drilled the holes and countersunk each one


tia.. Dave 


Wink




How far from the edge of the slats were the screws? 3/8" or so?
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
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#15
(01-04-2019, 07:41 PM)DaveBozeman Wrote: I pre-drilled the holes and countersunk each one

tia.. Dave

Flat head screws with their conical head tend to act as wedges so woods that are prone to splitting are likely to do so especially when the screws are placed near the ends.

Instead of flat head screws and countersinks, use washer head screws like those from Kreg and put them in counterbored holes. Their flat underside won't wedge into the grain. Plugging the holes with face gain plugs aligned with the grain of the slats would be a nice touch.

What are you finishing the chairs with?
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#16
(01-04-2019, 09:03 PM)DaveR1 Wrote: Flat head screws with their conical head tend to act as wedges so woods that are prone to splitting are likely to do so especially when the screws are placed near the ends.

Instead of flat head screws and countersinks, use washer head screws like those from Kreg and put them in counterbored holes. Their flat underside won't wedge into the grain.

Yup, this.  ^^^^



I knew at least one of the Dave's would get it...
Winkgrin
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"One should respect public opinion insofar as is necessary to avoid starvation and keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyrany, and is likely to interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
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#17
(01-04-2019, 09:03 PM)DaveR1 Wrote: Flat head screws with their conical head tend to act as wedges so woods that are prone to splitting are likely to do so especially when the screws are placed near the ends.

Instead of flat head screws and countersinks, use washer head screws like those from Kreg and put them in counterbored holes. Their flat underside won't wedge into the grain. Plugging the holes with face gain plugs aligned with the grain of the slats would be a nice touch.

What are you finishing the chairs with?

Agree... additionally it may help to oversize one of the two holes in the seat and back boards to allow some wood movement.
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#18
And one screw on each end of the slats instead of two, with the screws placed in the middle of the slat. The middle location will be least prone to split due to wood movement.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#19
And ideas about using the glue?

I already bought 300 more stainless steel screws.. I'm too cheap not to use them now.. lol

I put some Olympic clear on the last set. It looks yellower than I would have thought, but holds up well. Only issue I had is it has to be fairly warm when applying, or it doesn't dry. I had to use paint thinner after one coat and reapply
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#20
(01-05-2019, 05:16 PM)DaveBozeman Wrote: And ideas about using the glue?

I don't think glue on the ends of the boards will prevent them from splitting. It'll just be something that won't take the finish very well.


I suppose you could take your chances and plan to replace slats when they split.

I'd save the screws you've got for other projects. There'll surely be more. And get the right screws for the job.
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