Curved top box build
#31
  Re: Curved top box build by Aram (I'm working on a cha...)
Yeah, this is getting interesting. Pear is fine and hard enough to demand every joint be dead on and this curved top has upped the game considerably.

I can relate to the false starts. Persevere.
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#32
  Re: RE: Curved top box build by TomFromStLouis (Yeah, this is gettin...)
(05-06-2019, 11:32 PM)TomFromStLouis Wrote: Yeah, this is getting interesting. Pear is fine and hard enough to demand every joint be dead on and this curved top has upped the game considerably.
I agree, and I'm not convinced I'm quite there. Either way it's a fun build.

I can relate to the false starts. Persevere.
Always.
Best,
Aram, defying laws of geometry

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: http://awacs.smugmug.com/Woodworking
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#33
  Re: RE: Curved top box build by Aram ([quote='TomFromStLou...)
Photography is outstanding !!!!
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traditions for generations of warriors past. [Cpl. Jeff Sornij, USMC;
in Navy Times, November 1994]


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#34
  Re: RE: Curved top box build by Aram (Getting back to it, ...)
(01-28-2019, 12:29 AM)Aram Wrote: Getting back to it, did a bit more this weekend. Fingers skinned at the lumberyard, but it was worth it. Not much hand work to show this weekend, though I did get to use my skew rabbet plane for the box bottom. It makes some of my favorite shaving piles.

Music: Allen Toussaint, American Tunes (superb record by the late, great AT).







I want to get to the top soon, but first, I needed to make a new plane specifically for this build. It's about 15" long -- so, I guess you could call it a jack -- but with a tight throat for precision shavings.

Music: Box Scaggs, Silk Degrees. Followed by a good chunk of Dwight Yoakam's catalog.




I've built a lot of Krenov-style woodies, and you never know how temperamental any given one will be. This one came together easily, and for some reason is extremely easy to adjust. Sweet shavings.

I'm not going to make it pretty, but I'm shaping it a bit. Here's some work with a home-built spokeshave.




Sidebar: It turns out Ron Hock's new Krenov blades are spec-ed flatter than before, and, according to Ron, are easier to dress. I believe it. The tradeoff is, they are no longer hollow ground. On a blade this thick, I prefer a hollow for sharpening. I dug up a forgotten blade I bought from David Finck, back when he was making and selling them. It came hollow, so I went with it. Good choice, except I forgot that he shipped them blunt, and I mean with a distinct radius where the sharp part goes. So I had to grind it anyway. Rolleyes Big Grin  Nice blade though.

That's it for this weekend.

That skew plane and the woodie are fantastic.  Yes Yes

Did you make your router table??  We need one and yours looks like it is very nice.  Do you have the plans for it???

Also I see this is an old post but it is still nice to see.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

Hi, I'm Arlin's proud wife! His brain trma & meds-give memory probs and has pain from injuries, but all is well materially & financially.  
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#35
  Re: RE: Curved top box build by Arlin Eastman ([quote='Aram' pid='7...)
(05-07-2019, 01:07 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: That skew plane and the woodie are fantastic.  Yes Yes

Did you make your router table??  We need one and yours looks like it is very nice.  Do you have the plans for it???

Also I see this is an old post but it is still nice to see.

Hi Arlin,

I did build the router table. I made it for my Unisaw, and luckily was able to fit it into my PM66. No plans, just an overbuilt torsion box -- sorry. I kinda winged it and it worked out ok. One thing I would do differently is slope the bottom of the dust box that surrounds the router. It's flat, and although it works ok it leaves a lot of chips and dust on the bottom.
Best,
Aram, defying laws of geometry

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: http://awacs.smugmug.com/Woodworking
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#36
  Re: RE: Curved top box build by Timberwolf (Photography is outst...)
(05-07-2019, 10:54 AM)Timberwolf Wrote: Photography is outstanding !!!!

Thank you. I hope the woodworking will be at least decent. This is a good challenge for me.
Best,
Aram, defying laws of geometry

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: http://awacs.smugmug.com/Woodworking
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#37
  Re: RE: Curved top box build by Aram ([quote='Timberwolf' ...)
I'm stuck at the moment. I tried (a couple of times) to post my recent updates, with 15 pics, but I kept getting "your post cannot contain more than 30 photos, and you have 31" for some reason. Update coming once I get that sorted out. I'm not sure if I have to start a brand new post, or what.

{EDIT} I tried again the next day, and the result is the post below. It worked fine for whatever reason. Unless I add an emoticon in the middle, and then I get the error. Weird.
Best,
Aram, defying laws of geometry

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: http://awacs.smugmug.com/Woodworking
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#38
  Re: Curved top box build by Aram (I'm working on a cha...)
I made progress on the frame for the top. There's a thread upstairs about whether people do woodworking to relax. For me, this part was the flip side of that question. These steps need to be done deliberately, without rushing, stopping frequently to check progress. Is the piece still square? Am I planing evenly across the length? It is fun when I'm in a relaxed state of mind, and ready to listen to some good music and not be in a hurry. Sometimes the mood wears off, or I start to lose focus. Then it's time to go inside and do something else. I like this about woodworking.

I did some steps out of sequence by mistake. It worked out fine. Here is what I did, mistakes and all. I'll start with a small error -- I forgot to take a photo of marking the curves on the frame ends. So here is me faking it after bandsawing. This is the same template used earlier on the box ends, carefully lined up against the dry-assembled frame. Trace with pencil. It makes more sense when the end hasn't already been cut.    Mark tops and bottoms (but bottoms are a mistake, as you will see). Throughout all this, I listed to a couple of new CDs by The Slackers that I just got (The Question and Self Medication), Cody Jinks (30), Sturgill Simpson (Metamodern Sounds in Country Music, and High Top Mountain). Ska and country, what can I say. Probably some other stuff too.


 

Going back briefly in time, here are the bandsawn ends. The tops are fine, the bottom cuts left the pieces too thick, because I skipped a step. That's coming up soon.


 

The tops were shaped with a spokeshave I made a while back out of a beautiful piece of bubinga. It was worth the time to hone the blade, and adjust it to an even and very shallow cut across its width. The curved tops need to be square to the sides, something I checked about a gazillion times. 


 

Occasionally I'd get a bit of chatter or miss a spot. I bought this float years ago to square up wooden plane beds, and at some point I realized what a great all-around smoothing and shaping tool it can be. It takes light shavings and leaves a very smooth surface. I used it once or twice for minor touchup.


 

The end pieces need to flow perfectly into the front and rear frame members. This is more than aesthetics. The groove for the curved panel will be referenced off of the tops of all pieces, so if they are offset even a tiny amount, the panel will not fit. 

 



For the same reason, both end pieces need to have the exact same curvature on top.

 



Well, guess what. Old dumb adze here forgot a step. The inside bottoms of the front and rear frame pieces need rabbets and some clearance. A skew rabbet plane, a lot of checking (the thickness needs to be the same at each end, though the middle can deviate a bit). It might be hard to tell, but the rabbet is on the bottom of the frame pieces, on the edge opposite the hinge bevel.

 



One of the pieces was fighting me all the way. I don't know why but I could not get the rabbet to even depth -- it sloped downwards from the inside to the outside. I tackled that with a shoulder plane.

 



My favorite mess.

 



At this point, the rabbet is squared off at the inside. I needed to relieve that at an angle, which I did with a shoulder plane. The hinge bevel is on the left, rabbet on the right, and the new chamfer on in the middle.

 




Why? Aesthetics aside, some relief is needed so the piece can clear the transition from the flat to the curvy part of the box rabbet. The flat lead-in part (left) before the rise to the inside curve is shorter than I meant it to be, which meant a bit more work in the chamfer in the pic above. Not a big deal.

 



OK, now the frame front and rear are the correct thickness, and I can mark the bottoms of the ends. Yeah, again. But this time, to the right thickness.


 

Bandsawn (correctly).

 



The curvature is shallow enough that I was able to use a curved bottom spokeshave. Again, lots of checking for square as I went along.

 



After a while, I had a frame. I'm not an "I can live with it" guy when it comes to craftsmanship and these joints are not perfect. But in this case, I think I can live with it. By the way, this part was really fun.

 

Best,
Aram, defying laws of geometry

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: http://awacs.smugmug.com/Woodworking
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#39
  Re: Curved top box build by Aram (I'm working on a cha...)
I am loving this build along. Anxious to see the panel insert for the top.
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#40
  Re: RE: Curved top box build by Aram (Now for the joinery....)
(05-05-2019, 08:16 PM)Aram Wrote: I made sure not to let these slip (not so easy) and marked the slope on the back inside with a sharp pencil.




Next, I lined up the bevel gauge with the pencil marks, and knifed the angle. Light strokes but enough of them to make make a definite impression.

Just a question since I do not understand how you did it and tried to do something like this years ago.

How did you hold the piece down and then mark it??  When you did mark it what did you use and how??

Thanks
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

Hi, I'm Arlin's proud wife! His brain trma & meds-give memory probs and has pain from injuries, but all is well materially & financially.  
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