Need a tenoning jig
#19
(01-09-2019, 06:47 AM)fredhargis Wrote: My old Delta tenoning jig doesn't do so well on a SS, so I need another one. I'll build one this time since it doesn't see all that much use. Anyone have  a favorite design that seems to do the job well?

Sold my tenoning jig and now just use a dado to cut the cheeks.....doesn't really take any longer and setup is easier.
George

if it ain't broke, you're not tryin'
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.
Red Green

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#20
I like the smoother cheeks that the tenoning jig does, my dado set leaves a cut on the cheeks that takes some clean up...and when I do that it doesn't always come out perfect.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#21
(01-10-2019, 01:54 PM)fredhargis Wrote: I like the smoother cheeks that the tenoning jig does, my dado set leaves a cut on the cheeks that takes some clean up...and when I do that it doesn't always come out perfect.

Me too. Mine is a simple U shaped 3 sided "box" with a perpendicular stop screwed into one face of the jig. Slides along the Beis style fence. Pop on/pop off in seconds. Accuracy is determined by alignment of fence to blade and plumbness [new word for Webster] of the stop.
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#22
Fred, 

Woodsmith had a REALLY good design back in 1998. I have built it more than twice in various shops I have worked in.

Theirs can either cut the two cheeks by flipping the stock as most do, but also has an indexing system to cut 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2” wide tenons without flipping. This is highly useful for offset tenons. 

It is remarkably simple to build too.

The plans are available from Woodsmith Plans for $7.95- Tenon Jig
Ralph Bagnall
www.woodcademy.com
Watch Woodcademy TV free on our website.
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#23
Actually I may have that issue, I'll have to check today. Thanks.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#24
Fred,  I loved the link Jack posted of the self aligning one - by Shop Built,  but like danceswithticks,  I have a very basic U shaped box that slides on the fence.  One upgrade is a shim that I planed so that it is exactly the size of the kerf.  It makes bridle joints and lap joints very easy.  For a lap joint, you mount 1/2 of the members face side in to the jig, run it through the table saw,  the add the shim, which has a small piece at the top that overhangs onto the jig to keep it in place, and run the second half, again with the face side in.  Then go to the Bandsaw to cut the shoulder and you are done. 

For bridle joints, it is similar, though you have to track which pieces are to be mortised and which will have shoulders.  Run the pieces to be mortised without the shim,  then add the shim and cut the first shoulder cut for every piece.  Then move the fence for the shoulder cut on the other side, cut all the remaining shoulders.  Then remove the shim, and put the pieces to be mortised back on and run them through ,  then move the fence to nibble any remaining stock till the mortise is complete.  Since you put the stock on and off the jig at least twice ( actually 4 times since I am usually cutting joinery on each end of the piece ) the hardest part is keeping track of which pieces need to be cut where, and that the same face needs to be kept against the jig at all times, but the upside is the fit is very good.
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#25
[attachment=15791 Wrote:fredhargis pid='7706286' dateline='1547034435']My old Delta tenoning jig doesn't do so well on a SS, so I need another one. I'll build one this time since it doesn't see all that much use. Anyone have  a favorite design that seems to do the job well?

Like a Powermatic 66, sawstop's motor is on the left side.  That can create some dimension problems for a tenoning jig such as the Delta that was built for saws with the motor on the right hand side.  Solution:  Drill a new series of holes that will offset the miter bar and work more conveniently.

   

   

   
Delta tenoning jig set up for plywood drawer fronts using Infinity's 1/4" thick blade.
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#26
Thanks, Bob. I may give that a try before I send mine to the scrap yard.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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