cabinet saw accessory
#11
Good day to all,
I am looking at the Jessem Clear Cut Stock guide.  On the screen it looks great.  Does anyone have any hands on experience with it?  I'd like to get some fellow ww info before laying out that much cash.
Thanks,
Bob
Big Grin
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#12
I first used it at the workplace, and now own one. Its angled, one way rollers prevent kickback and ensure a constant contact of the stick to the fence as you push. This is very useful if you handle a large sheet by yourself as it is often difficult to keep the edge tight to the fence when you are standing away from the table and fence.

The guides can be adjusted to handle thicker stock and some people mount their guides on a plywood base and use magswitch magnets to attach the guides to the fence. You can remove the guides from the fence if you need to use the fence with other jigs (tenon jig eg).

Use the guides with a riving knife in place, it is close to being impossible to get a kickback.

Simon
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#13
(01-20-2019, 01:59 PM)Handplanesandmore Wrote: I first used it at the workplace, and now own one. Its angled, one way rollers prevent kickback and ensure a constant contact of the stick to the fence as you push. This is very useful if you handle a large sheet by yourself as it is often difficult to keep the edge tight to the fence when you are standing away from the table and fence.

The guides can be adjusted to handle thicker stock and some people mount their guides on a plywood base and use magswitch magnets to attach the guides to the fence. You can remove the guides from the fence if you need to use the fence with other jigs (tenon jig eg).

Use the guides with a riving knife in place, it is close to being impossible to get a kickback.

Simon

Thanks Simon - Sounds just like the video.  I think I'll take the plunge.
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#14
Make sure you read the instructions (or watch the video) so you know how to set the guides...you use the arms, not the rollers, to set the guides in position. Set the guides, front and back, BEFORE you move the fence to its final position, as the blade may get in the way for you to set the back guide.

Featherboards are no longer necessary in most cases when the guides are used.

Simon
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#15
I love mine, I use it for almost all rips. The only draw back is they get in the way when ripping narrow pieces 2" or so. I have the track mounted to a Bes fence so they are easy to remove if necessary. I keep a small piece of the common thickness of material next to the saw to set them to the correct height. I also have the clear-cut on my router. Again nice accessory.
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#16
(01-20-2019, 08:21 PM)lift mechanic Wrote: I love mine, I use it for almost all rips. The only draw back is they get in the way when ripping narrow pieces 2" or so.

I can rip as narrow as 1" or so when using the guides with the riving knife but not with the guard in place; try this -

Position the front and back guards with the rollers close to the fence, but not touching. Have a long push stick ready same thickness as the the stock to be ripped. Rip the stock as usual by pushing the stock through the front roller into the blade and then through the rear roller. As the end of the stock is about to pass the front roller, feed the push stick into its end to continue ripping. This is like feeding consecutive stock on a thickness planer to avoid snipes.

You don't need to push the stick through the blade, and you can stop the saw as soon as the stock is ripped. Remember to wait until the coasting down comes to a stop!!!

If the stock is narrow, thin material, clamp a featherboard to the fence before ripping.

Simon
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#17
(01-20-2019, 10:03 PM)Handplanesandmore Wrote: I can rip as narrow as 1" or so when using the guides with the riving knife but not with the guard in place; try this -

Position the front and back guards with the rollers close to the fence, but not touching. Have a long push stick ready same thickness as the the stock to be ripped. Rip the stock as usual by pushing the stock through the front roller into the blade and then through the rear roller. As the end of the stock is about to pass the front roller, feed the push stick into its end to continue ripping. This is like feeding consecutive stock on a thickness planer to avoid snipes.

You don't need to push the stick through the blade, and you can stop the saw as soon as the stock is ripped. Remember to wait until the coasting down comes to a stop!!!

If the stock is narrow, thin material, clamp a featherboard to the fence before ripping.

Simon

Really good advise.  Thanks again.
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#18
I run a SawStop with the Jessem guides. They work, and work well!

As stated in post #2, I mounted mine to a piece of 1X4 with two MagSwitch holding it all on the fence. This arrangement still permits use of other jigs attached to fence without much trouble.

Before purchasing the Jessem guides, I had Board Buddies on my old Uni-saw. I find the Jessem guide to be much easier to use.
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#19
(01-20-2019, 01:18 PM)clifton609 Wrote: Good day to all,
I am looking at the Jessem Clear Cut Stock guide.  On the screen it looks great.  Does anyone have any hands on experience with it?  I'd like to get some fellow ww info before laying out that much cash.
Thanks,
Bob
Big Grin

Dave Stanton has a good video on You-Tube for mounting to the plywood with 2 Mag switches for the saw fence. He also adapted the router fence version to the table saw. I of course saw this after I drilled and mounted them to my fence.  I think they are one of best inventions for safety recently for table saw kickback.  They are smaller than Board buddies, and are quick to adjust and remove. Dan
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#20
I added them to my Sawstop last year. They work great and I am glad to have them.
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