Can MC Aluminum Armored Cable Be Used?
#11
I keep coming here asking for more excellent advice. I have a Cedar Patio Cover attached to my house and tied into the roof. It is exposed beam and columns. I would consider it a dry location but in really bad storms some rain can blow into areas with no house walls to protect it. I am going to install 3 ceiling fans to the roof trusses and some LED indirect lighting. I have been thinking about MC wiring to reach these areas. MC Aluminum Armored would be easy to hide and make this much simpler than EMT conduit.
I will be running all wall mounted outlets in watertight fittings and outlet and switch covers. I am talking about running the MC Lite only in the overhead areas. I have seen that is is also offered in a version with a PVC jacket for wet locations. I have not found a source for this. The regular MC Lite is easily found at the borg.
What can I use here that would meet NEC rules. This is a rural area and I have no inspector to ask. I do want it to be NEC approved anyway.
Gary
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#12
It's only rated for "temporary" wet locations such as a building under construction. If it has a non metallic (pvc) jacket, it can be used but the connectors, junction boxes etc all have to be rated for wet locations. A very expensive install. You'll have to buy this through an electrical supplier.

Use PVC conduit and boxes and Romex wire. It will look better too.
Neil Summers Home Inspections




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#13
(01-22-2019, 08:15 AM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: It's only rated for "temporary" wet locations such as a building under construction. If it has a non metallic (pvc) jacket, it can be used but the connectors, junction boxes etc all have to be rated for wet locations. A very expensive install. You'll have to buy this through an electrical supplier.

Use PVC conduit and boxes and Romex wire. It will look better too.
Neil, are you talking about leaving the Romex exposed. I was under the impression Romex was not to be run in PVC conduit. That would certainly be cheaper and easier.
Gary
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#14
I would run THWN in PVC. separate wires so easier to pull, and it's rated for wet locations. they make stranded TWHN and solid core. stranded is easier to pull, solid core is much easier to get under screws on fixture terminals.

if you don't feel like pulling your own through conduit, the BORGs here sell THWN that is in flexible conduit already, but it is expensive. It does make the job go faster though.
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#15
This discussion might help:

http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=128348

In a nutshell, plastic conduit + UF (similar to Romex but intended to be used in wet locations) should be fine.

When it comes to mounting your ceiling fans, though, what will support the weight? Do they make plastic boxes that can tolerate a ceiling fan load?
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#16
(01-22-2019, 09:33 AM)crokett™ Wrote: I would run THWN in PVC.  separate wires so easier to pull, and it's rated for wet locations.  they make stranded TWHN and solid core.  stranded is easier to pull, solid core is much easier to get under screws on fixture terminals.  

if you don't feel like pulling your own through conduit, the BORGs here sell THWN that is in flexible conduit already, but it is expensive.  It does make the job go faster though.

This is how I'd do it, especially if they make a plastic box that can accommodate the weight of a ceiling fan.
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#17
NM can certainly be run in conduit. In fact, it's required where subject to physical damage (potentially). Realistically, the only reason why you wouldn't want to do it is for reasons of pulling (it's hard with conduit) and for heat dissipation (trying to pull too much wire). In reality, it would be very difficult to encounter heat issues. I certainly never have, though you will see some ridiculously long online arguments about NM in conduit.

I did some wiring on my deck a few years ago. Half was low voltage (for the lights attached to the fascia boards) and half was line voltage (for outlets, lights, and a fan). I used outdoor metal boxes both for the wiring through the ledger board (sealed with the appropriate gaskets) and then used PVC conduit for the rest of the wiring. All boxes are outdoor metal, all conduit is PVC. I used UF cable for this just because it's outside even though it probably isn't required.

I built my own box for the ceiling fan. It's PT lumber on the outside, with the top being vinyl (essentially shower wall material). The fasteners are caulked and the inside of the box is sealed with flex sealant so the box should be waterproof. The connection to the box is made with a galvanized nipple through the side and conduit inside (a short length) to a metal box, which is screwed to a length of PT 2x4, and then the box itself is screwed to the deck joists. This has been working well since I did it using common sense engineering and logic. I don't know what parts would not pass inspection (well, I know of one - the junction box sitting on the ground under the deck - but I don't feel like removing the deck boards to fix it since everything's dry), but it works and is safe.
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#18
(01-22-2019, 09:36 AM)Phil Thien Wrote: This discussion might help:

http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=128348

In a nutshell, plastic conduit + UF (similar to Romex but intended to be used in wet locations) should be fine.

When it comes to mounting your ceiling fans, though, what will support the weight?  Do they make plastic boxes that can tolerate a ceiling fan load?

Right now I have metal ceiling fan boxes that get screwed to the underside of the cedar joists. Is short pieces of plastic liquid tight with proper connectors allowed to make the crazy bends to get into the exposed beams and a good hiding spot. I hope I am being clear enough. I have a bunch of THHN and liquid tight. I know the liquid tight is restricted to 6’ in length.
Gary
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#19
(01-22-2019, 10:34 AM)GDay Wrote: Right now I have metal ceiling fan boxes that get screwed to the underside of the cedar joists. Is short pieces of plastic liquid tight with proper connectors allowed to make the crazy bends to get into the exposed beams and a good hiding spot. I hope I am being clear enough. I have a bunch of THHN and liquid tight. I know the liquid tight is restricted to 6’ in length.
Gary

You need wire rated for THWN to use in a wet location.  Most THHN is also THWN.  Look at the insulation on the wire and see how it is marked.

Short sections of Liquidtite should be good provided everything is connected correctly.

I'm not an electrician and it is always wise to go over your plans with an inspector to make sure they're onboard.
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#20
(01-22-2019, 10:42 AM)Phil Thien Wrote: I'm not an electrician and it is always wise to go over your plans with an inspector to make sure they're onboard.

I wish I had an Electrical Inspector to ask. I am rural and have no codes to adhere to besides NEMA. I just want to be sure my projects conform and are safe. I thank everyone for taking the time to help me do it right!
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