PSA -- connecting stovepipe together
#11
Spent enough time trying to get two pieces of 8" stovepipe to go together that I had blessed the inventor of the stuff as well as the makers and distributors. 
Upset
Rolleyes

Then I ran my finger along the smooth end and found a wrinkle on the inside of the pipe.

Grabbed my little grinder with a flap disc pad on it and smoothed and  beveled the inside.

Went together like it was supposed to.
Laugh

Now to finish installing my wood stove so I'll have some heat in the new shop
Cool
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom"  --Kris Kristofferson

Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
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#12
Don't forget to get a CO detector.  I don't think stoves are a huge risk, I'd think you'd know if there was a problem by all the smoke in your shop, for example.  But new shop, get a CO detector anyhow.
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#13
Be sure to have stove pipe joints in the right direction!
Friend did it backwards, and the creasote mess was a drag.
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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#14
Should have been crimped and tapered enough to slide in together easily.

Decide whether it would be a good idea to install 3 short rivets in each joint if they don't lock together.
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#15
(01-26-2019, 10:29 PM)Pirate Wrote: Be sure to have stove pipe joints in the right direction!
Friend did it backwards, and the creasote mess was a drag.

Amen to that...from someone who knows from experience.
Laugh
Laugh
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#16
(01-26-2019, 05:19 PM)Wild Turkey Wrote: Spent enough time trying to get two pieces of 8" stovepipe to go together that I had blessed the inventor of the stuff as well as the makers and distributors. 
Upset  
Rolleyes

Then I ran my finger along the smooth end and found a wrinkle on the inside of the pipe. Grabbed my little grinder with a flap disc pad on it and smoothed and  beveled the inside.

Went together like it was supposed to.
Laugh

Now to finish installing my wood stove so I'll have some heat in the new shop
Cool

You may need a damper to control the draft. There is a neat trick to drilling the holes for the swivel damper exactly opposite each other. Will you be needing that?
Rip to width. Plane to thickness. Cut to length. Join.
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#17
(01-28-2019, 04:33 PM)Edwin Hackleman Wrote: You may need a damper to control the draft. There is a neat trick to drilling the holes for the swivel damper exactly opposite each other. Will you be needing that?

Please share.  Don't know if I'll need it but someone might!
Laugh
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom"  --Kris Kristofferson

Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
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#18
If it's a proper damper, it will have it's own bit for making the holes on the end of the shaft.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#19
(01-28-2019, 07:02 PM)Wild Turkey Wrote: Please share.  Don't know if I'll need it but someone might!
Laugh

Well, if you will not be needing it, please tell me how you are going to control that draft whenever the stove gets too hot like it could during the next few days. How do you throttle down a fully loaded stove when the wind chill drops below -20 F and the wind is blowing from the north at 15 mph steady?

I can do this with my stove, a Federal Airtight, but very few can.
Rip to width. Plane to thickness. Cut to length. Join.
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#20
I was curious about not having a damper as well....I always put them on my stoves. Maybe I didn't need to?
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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