Farm Table Build Along - FINISHED!!
#31
I like it. What kind of a finish ? Stain ? I like the existing patina of the wood.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.

Garry
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#32
I am really liking that base design!
Formerly known as John's Woodshop
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#33
(03-03-2019, 07:37 PM)museumguy Wrote: I like it. What kind of a finish ? Stain ? I like the existing patina of the wood.

I haven't done anything yet.  And I'm not sure what I'll do.  I don't think I'll stain it.  

I'd love to keep as much of the patina as possible.  In my first set of pics, you can see saw marks on the wood I'll be using for the table top.  I'd like to keep that showing.
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#34
(03-04-2019, 08:27 AM)camp10 Wrote: I haven't done anything yet.  And I'm not sure what I'll do.  I don't think I'll stain it.  

I'd love to keep as much of the patina as possible.  In my first set of pics, you can see saw marks on the wood I'll be using for the table top.  I'd like to keep that showing.

If you use a flat sheen WB clear finish the color won't change and it will look like there is no finish on it.  

John
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#35
(02-16-2019, 07:59 AM)camp10 Wrote: I was able to keep the Date/Name together.  The only time people will see it is when the top is removed.  But I'll know it's there.

I really enjoy seeing reclaimed lumber projects.  Great touch with preserving the name on the timber.  
Cool
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#36
OK, I'm back to provide an update.  I stopped working on the table in March.  Some house projects cropped up.  I really don't get much woodworking done in the summer.  Too much other stuff to do around the farm.

A couple weeks ago I picked back up on the farm table project.  It's getting close to being done!  Here's an update:

I made good progress on the legs last winter, but I hadn't done much with the top.  It's made up of three 9ft long boards.  Together, the three boards are 38" wide.  I didn't want to do too much to the appearance of the boards, but I want to slightly enhance the defects (if that makes sense.). 

I used a light gray stain to bring out some of the saw marks, nail holes, and such.  

Sanding was kind of a dilemma.  Too much and I remove a lot of the boards' history.  Not enough and the boards are too rough to use.  I started with 100 grit paper on my ROS, but didn't try to remove too much wood.  That kept the nail holes, etc visible.  Then I used 150 grit paper on the ROS and finally a hand sanding with 220.  I'm pretty happy with the balance.  (A quick aside about ROS paper.  I was using the house brand from the big box store and was getting so frustrated.  It was junk.  I ordered some Mirka Gold and what a difference!!)

   

There were two missing knots.  I thought about leaving the holes, but they're pretty big.  So I cut out replacements from another board and shaped them using my bandsaw and a file.  In the picture above, one of those knots is a replacement.  It's pretty hard to tell which one is original.

   

Let's talk epoxy.  I planned on using wood glue for the  legs.   And it probably would have been fine.  The issue was the size of the mortice and tenons and the weight of the pieces.   Even though I was careful sawing, a couple of those tenons were a little loose.  I decided to use epoxy with a little sawdust for gap filling.

   

Which epoxy to use?  I did a little research and thought about the West System.  We have a store in the area.  But the quantities (and cost) were bigger than I needed.  In the end I picked up this kit from the local farm store.  It's 'open' time is pretty small, but I don't need more than a couple minutes.

   


More in the next post!!
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#37
It's December in Wisconsin and my shop is an old free standing garage.  This is how we get the glue to flow.  
Smile


   


I turned my attention to the top of the table.    I needed to epoxy those replacement knots and I also used a bit to 'lock' the existing knots into place.  I also used some epoxy for the larger splits in the board.   (Once it dried, the epoxy was much less noticeable.).   I put tape on the ends and underneath to keep the epoxy in place while it dried.

   


We're getting near retirement and starting to think about where we want to live next.  So, I want to be able to take it apart for transportation. The 3 boards that make up the table top have biscuits slots cut and pocket screws holes drilled.  For now, I will place biscuits in the slots and screw the boards together.  When we get to a more permanent home, we'll reassemble and glue the biscuits in place.

Here's a picture of the underside of the tabletop.

   

My goal was use only boards reclaimed from this farm, so I've ended up with a variety of different woods.  At one time I hoped to use stain to make the color of the boards more similar.  So I was experimenting with different stains and finishes on the underside.  

   

I wasn't able to get the right look.  In the end, I left the boards natural.  I tried a couple water based finishes, but didn't find anything that looked better than the Arm-R-Seal Oil Finish.  So, that's what it's going to be.


I've moved everything down to the basement for finishing.  3 coats, then light sanding with 320 paper. Another coat, 320 paper, another coat, 600 paper, and then a final coat.

   

   

Hopefully this weekend it will be assembled and in place!
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#38
Wow, that is coming along well.  It has a really nice rustic look to it.
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#39
Yep. Lookin very fine there on the table build!!

Mirca Gold ROS paper. That's about the only brand I've used for 20 years. Some Norton in a pinch.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#40
Very nicely done!
Thanks,  Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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