new lockset in older door.
#11
My had to change the lock set on an older door.  The original door had a 1-5/8" hole drilled for the lockset.  Modern locksets require a 2-1/8" hole.  

This is how I went about opening that hole. 

First I removed the old lockset. 
 
Then I marked the center line of that hole.
[Image: door-1.jpg]

Then I took a 3/4" piece of scrap plywood (MDF or particle board would work just as well) and I drilled the 2-1/8" hole in that board according to the manufacturer's template.  I marked the center line for that hole too.  I clamped that board over the door aligning the center line from the board to the centerline on the door.

[Image: door-2.jpg]

Then I used the 3/4" sheet goods to act as a drilling guide.

[Image: door-4.jpg]

Here is the lockset installed (over fresh paint).

[Image: door-5.jpg]

This is the second time I've used this technique and it works perfectly.  It is certainly faster and more accurate than the jig saw + rotary rasp method I used on the first attempt.  

A cautionary note:  The hole saw would bind up on the hole and wrenched my wrist.  My wrist is still a bit sore.  I resolved that by rubbing bar soap against the hole saw for lubrication.  I recommend that precaution.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#12
I used the exact same procedure just a couple of weeks ago to replace some locksets on 2 doors made in the 1840's.  Works like a charm.  

I'll add that you should clamp another piece of plywood over the exit side of the hole to avoid tear out, or drill half way from each side.  

John
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#13
(03-11-2019, 09:31 AM)jteneyck Wrote: I used the exact same procedure just a couple of weeks ago to replace some locksets on 2 doors made in the 1840's.  Works like a charm.  

I'll add that you should clamp another piece of plywood over the exit side of the hole to avoid tear out, or drill half way from each side.  

John

I agree, a second piece of undrilled plywood would have prevented tear out.  Drilling half way from each side would create alignment challenges that I was not prepared to take.  But the backer sheet would certainly have resulted in a cleaner exit.  And it only needs to be 1/4" thick to be effective.

It was certainly better than my first door, which I did using a jig saw and a rotary rasp in my electric drill.  It worked, but it was a lot of effort and time, and (luckily) the lockset's rosette covered the messy work.  

The drill guide is so quick to make and cheap (using scrap sheet goods) that I don't retain them for the next use.  

My wrist is still sore.  I probably allowed the drill to go off-angle a bit and that is why the hole saw grabbed up on me.  But the bar soap rubbed on the outside of the hole saw eliminated the issue.

In retrospect this solution is so obvious I don't know why I did not think of it originally.  That is why I posted it.  Just in case there is someone out there as naive as I was.
Smile
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#14
I've installed locks in steel doors where there were none and I used a jig made for the purpose. They are about $20 at Home Depot, they fit both common door thicknesses, and they include hole saws. The centering design would let you easily expand an existing hole since the hole saw starts from the outside. This is what I mean:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D180004-Bi...3SCE5JKYPB

I have to imagine the time and effort to make a plywood jig would be better spent on something like this. It's not exactly reusable as it's a single purpose tool, but I found it very useful and easy to use. If it's worth it for a single use, then it's definitely worth it to me.
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#15
(03-11-2019, 09:54 AM)FS7 Wrote: I've installed locks in steel doors where there were none and I used a jig made for the purpose. They are about $20 at Home Depot, they fit both common door thicknesses, and they include hole saws. The centering design would let you easily expand an existing hole since the hole saw starts from the outside. This is what I mean:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D180004-Bi...3SCE5JKYPB

I have to imagine the time and effort to make a plywood jig would be better spent on something like this. It's not exactly reusable as it's a single purpose tool, but I found it very useful and easy to use. If it's worth it for a single use, then it's definitely worth it to me.

It looks like that jig would work.  But since my jig was free, and it took less time to make it than it would have to drive to Home Depot, I think I would have used the home made jig anyway.  

Of course I did not have to drill for the latch as that was already there.  I only needed to enlarge the existing 1-5/8" hole to 2-1/8".

If I were working on a undrilled slab door I might be interested in a hole drilling jig.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#16
I've had to do that several times for my Church.  I have a great hole saw set that allows me to match the existing hole with the smaller hole saw, place a spacer, and the desired hole saw over the smaller one and drill to your heart's content.  Alignment is quick and perfect every time.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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#17
(03-11-2019, 09:54 AM)FS7 Wrote: I've installed locks in steel doors where there were none and I used a jig made for the purpose. They are about $20 at Home Depot, they fit both common door thicknesses, and they include hole saws. The centering design would let you easily expand an existing hole since the hole saw starts from the outside. This is what I mean:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D180004-Bi...3SCE5JKYPB

I have to imagine the time and effort to make a plywood jig would be better spent on something like this. It's not exactly reusable as it's a single purpose tool, but I found it very useful and easy to use. If it's worth it for a single use, then it's definitely worth it to me.

This took like 15 minutes to make:

[Image: oWqem8EzpK9Pa8jqfrJvw1UmAldwRge5C4Ncy2-J...35-h626-no]

And this one another 15 minutes:  

[Image: gWUHQWGdi3Ls3Dz4WOVjBxVpYioKSA7qLib_SbJI...70-h626-no]

John
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#18
I guess if I were in the door installation business I would get one of these, but at the cost of $400.00, I think I'll make jigs for the occasional door.  Quickset's jigs are a lot like Blum's jigs.  Excellent quality but you need to do a lot of work to justify the expense.

https://www.doitbest.com/products/254649
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#19
(03-11-2019, 08:10 AM)Cooler Wrote: My had to change the lock set on an older door.  The original door had a 1-5/8" hole drilled for the lockset.  Modern locksets require a 2-1/8" hole.  

This is how I went about opening that hole. 

First I removed the old lockset. 
 
Then I marked the center line of that hole.


Then I took a 3/4" piece of scrap plywood (MDF or particle board would work just as well) and I drilled the 2-1/8" hole in that board according to the manufacturer's template.  I marked the center line for that hole too.  I clamped that board over the door aligning the center line from the board to the centerline on the door.



Then I used the 3/4" sheet goods to act as a drilling guide.



Here is the lockset installed (over fresh paint).



This is the second time I've used this technique and it works perfectly.  It is certainly faster and more accurate than the jig saw + rotary rasp method I used on the first attempt.  

A cautionary note:  The hole saw would bind up on the hole and wrenched my wrist.  My wrist is still a bit sore.  I resolved that by rubbing bar soap against the hole saw for lubrication.  I recommend that precaution.


That's my preferred way of doing it, and using a backer board on the other side so you won't blow the veneer off.
Uhoh



(03-11-2019, 09:54 AM)FS7 Wrote: I've installed locks in steel doors where there were none and I used a jig made for the purpose. They are about $20 at Home Depot, they fit both common door thicknesses, and they include hole saws. The centering design would let you easily expand an existing hole since the hole saw starts from the outside. This is what I mean:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D180004-Bi...3SCE5JKYPB

I have to imagine the time and effort to make a plywood jig would be better spent on something like this. It's not exactly reusable as it's a single purpose tool, but I found it very useful and easy to use. If it's worth it for a single use, then it's definitely worth it to me.


I've got a new one here I've never opened. It's 10-12 years old now.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#20
Nice: if only I could remember these great ideas when I need them (memory like a sieve).
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