Pot stirring time -- tracksaws (or is it track saws?).
#20
(03-14-2019, 02:36 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Very nice writeup.  Are you satisfied you can cut parts to final dimensions?  Maybe I missed it but I don't think you addressed that aspect.  Unless that's possible, and repeatable to at least 1/64" accuracy, I don't see much benefit over what I've been doing, which is very much like you were doing before.  

John

Yes, I am confident that I can.  However I believe it may require the use of the track clamps (came with the kit). I've just been too lazy to set up my usual rig of sawhorses with 4 long rails screwed down and then the foam on top.  With the foam resting flat on my bench, it isn't easy to use the rail clamps that slide under the rail.  On what I usually knock together for plywood sheet breakdown, I'll be able to get the clamps under.  So, didn't really deal with it in that post.  

While the rails didn't slip around on the plywood, they did have a tenancy to pivot a bit.  Right now I'm putting this down to my inexperience with the kit and using a relatively small piece of plywood for testing.  A 55" rail sort of dwarfed the about 20" wide chunk I was messing with. In retrospect, maybe getting a 3rd rail at 28" would have been a good idea.

When (if) I change the ZC strips for some thicker rubber will be the time to confirm the ability to cut to dimension.  In theory, it should work just fine. In practice?
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#21
Give me a shot of the rail strips, and the side of the rail. I'll compare to my spare EZ strips I have.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
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#22
(03-14-2019, 06:49 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: Give me a shot of the rail strips, and the side of the rail. I'll compare to my spare EZ strips I have.

I've made a note to do so. 

Also, found a source of 110" long strips that are about 2.2mm thick from Makita replacement parts source. These have the adhesive applied.  Under $20 for 110".
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#23
Creepy Google search software popped up an ad for this in another web page today :

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardw...860634.htm

Looks to be an on-line only at Menards. Not a bad price, and appears to come with both x-cut and ripping blades. Of course I'm assuming that both blades are not all that great. And while it appears to come with rail clamps, they don't look quite as nice as others I've seen.

Track is 4 lengths of 27-1/2".

And the molding on the handle and a few other details in the photo certainly do look like the same Sheppach saw rebadged again.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#24
IMO, even the Festool stuff needs tape for the ultimate in cut quality. Bought back in the '04 - '05 range when I needed finish cuts from about 10 sheets a week. Wound up with a triple grind laminate blade (still on the saw.)
Thanks,  Curt
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#25
This is just my perspective after owning a Dewalt tracksaw for almost 10 years. I use it for breaking down sheet goods away from the shop and that is about it. My sheet goods are stored in the garage away from the shop so, they get cut there and moved to the shop. I do value the saw and appreciate the clean cuts and great dust collection but it isn't used all that much. IIRC I have around $300 into the Dewalt including several tracks, clamps, accessories. There where deals to be had years ago on the Dewalt 28V as well as the regular 120V saws that would get you into their system for around $250. I know more recently that the Makita has had some great sale prices.
With what my usage has been over the years, I know that these generic branded (Grizzly, Scheppach, etc. etc.) versions of the tracksaws would most likely fit my needs.
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#26
Rob

My wife gave me some 1/2 ply to cut for her cabinet and I used the Green tape to tape down the middle of the cut on both sides and very nice clean cut on both sides.  I am saying this to show it really does not matter to much the type of the blade since the one I used a few teeth were damaged and in rough shape but it still cut cleanly with the tape.

Just make sure the tape sticks well to the wood and press it down hard or use the back of the tape to press it down.
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#27
(03-16-2019, 03:32 PM)Arlin Eastman Wrote: Rob

My wife gave me some 1/2 ply to cut for her cabinet and I used the Green tape to tape down the middle of the cut on both sides and very nice clean cut on both sides.  I am saying this to show it really does not matter to much the type of the blade since the one I used a few teeth were damaged and in rough shape but it still cut cleanly with the tape.

Just make sure the tape sticks well to the wood and press it down hard or use the back of the tape to press it down.
I use the back of an old spoon to seat the tape. Anything slick and smooth should help.

And peeling it off at a low angle off the cut edge helps minimize pulling out loose fibers.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#28
The reason plywood (or any other wood) splinters or shreds with a circular saw is the lack of support on the sides of the cut as the blade exits. The solution is a zero clearance throat. Tracksaws use flexible edge on the side of the track that supports one side of the cut (hopefully the keeper). This still leaves the offcut side unsupported.

The EZ tracksaw system uses a separate baseplate that allows one to use their own saw. The base plate has a zero clearance insert that snaps into the leading edge of the saw base. The first time you use the blade you lower your spining blade into the insert to create the zero clearance slot for that particular blade. This device runs along the side of the flexible track insert This zero clearance plate will give your outstanding results on both the keeper and waste side of the cut even using a mediocre blade. (This is what the tape trick is doing, but doesn't necessarily provide sufficient pressure to prevent splintering)

So is would seem to me that if you attach a 1/4 inch plywood plate to the bottom of your saw; then create your own zero clearance throat it would resolve the splintering issue since the top face of the project would be supported. The downside is reduced cutting depth (with EZ you lose 1/2 inch) although this shouldn't be an issue since you are only going to be cutting 3/4-1 inch sheet goods anyway. The other downside may be registering the saw on the track, but this technique should work with homemade tracks.

I HAVEN"T TRIED THIS.... it is only a suggested work around that mimics what works with my EZ tracksaw.
Train to be miserable...
that way when the real misery starts you won't notice.
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