Joinery question
#11
Hello,

I am a new member of the forum.

I am a  beginner-intermediate woodworker and would appreciate some advice on how to tackle a project. I would like to build the under stairs storage unit shown in the below link. I found this picture in an old (Feb 2011) issue of Family Handyman but there were no plans - just the picture.

My two questions are:
1. what type of wood would you suggest?

2. how should I join the shelves that are angled?

Thank you kindly

http://cdn-origin.tmbi.com/TFH/tips-app/...AGE_21.jpg


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#12
For the wood choice - if these are under basement stairs and it is not a finished basement, I would use plywood. If they are in a "look good" area either use veneered ply with matching hardwood edging or the solid wood of your choice. Considering the probable depth, ply is the way I'd go.

For the joinery - If you have a tablesaw and a dado stack then gut dados at the appropriate angle in the slanted piece and bevel the horizontal pieces to the same angle. If you lack tablesaw and/or dado stack and don't want to buy them, then I would simply bevel the horizontal pieces to the correct angle and glue & screw it.

JMO & YMWV
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#13
(03-21-2019, 07:21 PM)C Nelson Wrote: My two questions are:
1. what type of wood would you suggest?
  
    I hate to answer a question with a question, but where are the stairs?  In the basement where no one will see them?  Or on a living floor where they can be seen by visitors?  
   If in the basement I'd use plywood.  If on a living level I'd use a complimentary wood to it's location.  Or if it's to be painted I'd use poplar.

2. how should I join the shelves that are angled?

   I'd alter the plan to add a vertical upright (wall) under the angled joint to offer support for the shelf.  I'd also keep the middle vertical wall as well.
    Joel
USN (Corpsman) 1968-1972
USAF Retired Aug 31, 1994
Santa Rosa County, Fl Retired Jun 1, 2012
Now just a hobbiest enjoying woodworking!
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#14
Agree with cputnam. I probably wouldn't go with dadoes at all if you are using Lowes or HD imported Chinese ply, in part because it may be full of voids and not hold that dado very well. Their red oak and birch products are more expensive and have pretty thin face veneers, but are less void-filled and better fit for dado jointery.

If you don't have a dado stack, an undersized plywood dado bit and a router with a straight edge or 2x4 will give you a straight and consistent dado at all the 90° joints. It is easier and more consistent to cut the dadoes across the panel first, and then cut the panel down to size. For the 45°, I wouldn't bother with the screws or a dado; I'd just go with a quality glue and a couple of pin nails to hold it in place while the glue dries.
Math is tough. Let's go shopping!
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#15
I'm with Joel about tweaking the design so the uprights meet the end of the shelves. That way you have a simple 90 deg join between the upright and the shelf. The angled section then basically sits on top and can be screwed down from above, where it won't be seen. You could of course bet a bit fancier there, but it basically wont be a structural part of the piece. The piece will have a plywood back that both braces the whole construction, and stops the storage boxes from sliding out the back. Use that bracing to make up for any dodgy joins you have to make on the angled pieces.

Decent plywood (not anything exotic) for the construction, and if you want to match other decor, just do that on the front with an attached panel that looks like the other cupboards or doors around it.
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#16
Use 3/4"(0r equivalent) plywood, not 1/2".

A really basic way would be to build each horizontal section individually as that minimizes joinery as the joints could all be simple butt joints. That gives you plenty of practice in cutting angles. It does use almost twice the ply, however.

You did not mention the tools you have to use. Cutting bevels on the ends of long pieces of ply can be difficult using a table saw. A decent circular saw with a plywood blade(usually under $30), a straight edge and clamps can actually be easier.

Most of us started out on projects similar to yours. A lot of us did not have You Tube or the Internet for information. Heck, I started without knowing about WoodNet!
Uhoh
Uhoh 

One thing---often mistakes become design alterations.
Big Grin
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#17
Plywood would certainly be my choice for this, but a good cabinet grade plywood....which pretty much rules out most big box stuff. It would help to know what you have to work with on the joinery question, as well as if that left side will be seen (the piece appears to be on casters, do you intend to do that?)
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#18
Google image search shows this all over Pintrest but appears to have originated with Family Handyman magazine as some clickbait articles on storage ideas. I've not taken the time to dig deeper into anything FH magazine may have but look there.

It doesn't appear as if the shelves are dado'd in. The slanted piece is hooked by the short vertical wall and then just some matching angle cutting. Track saw or circular saw can do all of that, just look for complementary angles and it should be pretty straight forward.

Looks to be made of birch ply in the photo. Leave the edges showing the plys or get some iron-on banding. I don't think taking the time to do all the hardwood lipping on this project would make sense. Unless you just want the practice.

Best guess is pocket holes and glue for construction method. Often times, these sort of magazine projects are photographed from a slight downward angle to hide the pocket holes which would be on the undersides of the shelves, etc.

The use of large plastic tubs is going to spread the weight and if a shelf does sag a bit it will just rest on the tub. Sure, makes it hard to pull out and put back but it won't collapse.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#19
The big box stores carry birch ply and red-oak ply, and some upgraded utility ply that is suitable for paint.  The birch and red oak cost about $50.00 per sheet.  

Dowels and Confirmat screws make for good racking strength (better than dados) and you don't need a dado head for that work.  

For a beginner, I think the most difficult part of this is going to be making the angle cuts on the pieces.  It can be difficult to make angle cuts on long pieces on the table saw.

You might consider making the angle side to look like "steps".  Then you are using almost all butt joints, or to make several tall,narrow shelf units and join them together.

This is what I mean by "steps".

[Image: maxresdefault.jpg]

Or build the narrow units (which would be easier):

[Image: billy-bookcase-oak-veneer__0644258_pe702534_s5.jpg]
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#20
I would use a biscuit joiner for all the joints.  It was invented for sheet goods joinery and it excels at cutting slots at an angle.  

John
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