Attaching aluminum trim coil...pics added
#19
(04-02-2019, 08:52 PM)Gary G™ Wrote: Without seeing what you’re doing, I’m thinking PVC brick molding.

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#20
I added a couple pics with what I am trying to do.

1. I want to try and bend and tuck into the seal. Am I crazy? Again I have not ever done this .
2. Need to bend
3. Will be needing some kind of edge or border.


Thanks
"Life is too short for bad tools.".-- Pedder 7/22/11
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#21
I would remove the wood and replace it with pvc stock.  Get matching caulking and you are done.  This all assumes that the window is  properly flashed in the first indstance.
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#22
(04-05-2019, 07:41 AM)Cooler Wrote: I would remove the wood and replace it with pvc stock.  Get matching caulking and you are done.  This all assumes that the window is  properly flashed in the first indstance.

Both places are doors under a porch.  I am going to hone depot now to look at PVC trim.
"Life is too short for bad tools.".-- Pedder 7/22/11
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#23
(04-05-2019, 09:22 AM)Scott W Wrote: Both places are doors under a porch.  I am going to hone depot now to look at PVC trim.

PVC is very easy to work with.  It cuts like pine (or even MDF) with a cross cut blade.  You don't have to pre-drill for trim head screws and the screw heads will bury deep into the PVC to easily be covered with caulk.

http://www.tacomascrew.com/132-812-1.jpg

You can miter and glue with the special PVC glue and make frames.  I've never painted any, but it is supposed to take paint well.  The caulk I use matched the color of the PVC perfectly.  

The trim head screws with either a square drive or a star drive.  They work best when the screw gun is set on "slow" or "half speed".
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#24
A few comments on how I do it. First, the jamb has a good chance of being dented, so I tend to steer away from coil stock there. When I do wrap it, I usually remove the weather-stripping from its slot and pry the casing away a little so the alum. can go behind it; those tight back to back *90s are hard on my brake. The coil has to be nice and  snug, then I use S.S. trim nails where the weather stripping will cover them and nail the casing to the jamb with a few nails going thru the aluminum. If there isn't going to be a storm door, the casing just gets some silicone caulk on the edges before the coil is put on and held with tape. Speaking of tape. Double stick 1/16" foam tape will also hold the trim coil very well. Problem is that you only have one chance to put it in the right place. It won't come off without bending and creasing the aluminum. Another suggestion is to get the matching butyl rubber caulk and learn how to apply it in a single stroke. Never smooth it out with your finger or tool it. If you do, it might look good for a while, but ion short order, the thin edges will collect dirt and will look like a novice just covered a big gap with caulk.

Cor-Tex screws with their matching plugs are a little pricey, but they're my go to fastener for Azek. You can sand out minor blemishes on PVC trim, but go all the way to 400 grit to match the sheen. You also want to wash the trim (and your hands) with Comet before putting the plugs in. A lot of contractors use S.S. 15 ga. finish nails in their trim gun and fill the holes with Bond-and Fill. If you go that route, leave it proud and scrape (not cut) the excess flush when it sets with a single edge razor blade.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#25
Make a tiny hole with a nail set and then your trim nail will be set flush with the trim
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#26
I use a trim nail tool
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