Custom Made Outdoor Furniture

[Russell Hudson]

Our client had expensive cushions custom made for the two love seats they had on their patio. The seats were made inexpensively in Central America and after some time, they began to fall apart. She asked me if we could make two of similar style and size (so the cushions would fit). Here’s a pic of one of her old ones with the cushions.  



After doing some research, I decided to make them from a African mahogany (Sepele) and I machined the size of all the components a bit heavier (thicker) than the existing ones. The Festool domino joiner and Titebond III exterior wood glue would create a joint that would hold up well. 



We had to do our glue-up in sections as there were too many joints to make before the glue’s set up time (15mins) so we first glued both of the sides (front leg, back leg, skirt and arm) …and did the same with the seats back …and clamped overnight. 



 

Next we brought the ends together with the backrest and two long skirt sections (front & back) and clamped again.

 

we attached ribs between the front to back skirts and screwed the seating slats to the ribs (from below) using deck screws (so they could be replaced if need be). Then we sanded a final time and soaked both seats in Watco Teak oil and applied a second coat the next day.

 

A yearly re-application of the teak oil will keep them as protected as is possible without having to sand off the entire old finish before refinishing (as would be the case with a marine varnish or other ‘surface coat’ finish). Now they can do their own maintenance (at each season’s end) before covering them for the winter.

   

Russell Hudson / Hudson Cabinetmaking, inc.

[jteneyck]

Very nice.  I'd be interested in seeing a follow up picture in 2 or 3 years to see how it looks.  I have yet to find an oil finish that can survive a single Summer (in NYS, no less) without fading and looking like dirt.  The only way I can keep my Ipe' deck looking good is to completely strip it each Spring and then reoil it.  I made a deck table out of Sapele two years ago and it still looks very nice - but only because I keep it covered except when I want to use it.  

John

[stav]

Your replacement looks awesome.  However, I can't picture it with those green cushions.  

[wood-chips]

Outstanding job on the replacement.
I bet you could find it in the dark with those glow in the dark cushions 

[Russell Hudson]

Very nice.  I'd be interested in seeing a follow up picture in 2 or 3 years to see how it looks.  I have yet to find an oil finish that can survive a single Summer (in NYS, no less) without fading and looking like dirt.  The only way I can keep my Ipe' deck looking good is to completely strip it each Spring and then reoil it.  I made a deck table out of Sapele two years ago and it still looks very nice - but only because I keep it covered except when I want to use it.  

John

you're right.... I told her it's going to get more & more grey mixed in with this brown over the years ...but this is a chair made for cushions.... it'll never be walked on. A deck (floor) HAS to be beyond resilient. You have to have a good amount of finish material (marine varnish ideally) sitting on the wood's surface (unlike oil) otherwise too much damage to the surface will occur and it looks like poop in no time

[Russell Hudson]

Your replacement looks awesome.  However, I can't picture it with those green cushions.  

I know / they're horrid LOL

[Russell Hudson]

Outstanding job on the replacement.
I bet you could find it in the dark with those glow in the dark cushions 

you and stav should hang out / read reply to his same add

[handi]

Very nice.  I'd be interested in seeing a follow up picture in 2 or 3 years to see how it looks.  I have yet to find an oil finish that can survive a single Summer (in NYS, no less) without fading and looking like dirt.  The only way I can keep my Ipe' deck looking good is to completely strip it each Spring and then reoil it.  I made a deck table out of Sapele two years ago and it still looks very nice - but only because I keep it covered except when I want to use it.  

John

True oil finishes not only don’t need to be stripped, they cannot be. Teak oil or walnut oil or even mineral oil finishes do not end up with a surface film. 

They certainly WILL need to be re-oiled every year, and some light sanding might be needed, but no stripping.

The exterior doors of my home in St Croix were mahogany and were finished only with teak oil. Even exposed to tropical weather, they looked great and were in fine condition.

[jteneyck]

True oil finishes not only don’t need to be stripped, they cannot be. Teak oil or walnut oil or even mineral oil finishes do not end up with a surface film. 

They certainly WILL need to be re-oiled every year, and some light sanding might be needed, but no stripping.

The exterior doors of my home in St Croix were mahogany and were finished only with teak oil. Even exposed to tropical weather, they looked great and were in fine condition.

Maybe I should have said deep cleaned rather than stripped.  All I can tell you is that my Ipe' deck fades very quickly after a fresh coat of oil is applied, and after 6 months dirt and ??? is on/in it.  I've used both Ipe' Oil and Penofin Hardwood Oil.  The first year I stripped it because nothing else I tried would get it back to clean looking wood other than pressure washing with pressures that risked damaging the wood.  The following Spring I finally figured out that TSP + bleach would remove whatever it is.  I have built in planter boxes on the deck, too.  They do not suffer nearly as badly; they fade less and dirt doesn't build up on the vertical boards like it does on the deck.  Vertical applications like your doors don't get near the same amount of exposure and I'll bet that's why they looked good.  And the sun angle in the tropics is higher than where I live making the intensity less on a vertical surface.     


If anyone has any recommendations I'm happy to consider it.  I'm doing test boards to try to find something that will last longer.  Last year's tests were a bust. 

Russell, I hope the owners of your beautiful bench give it regular love to keep it looking new.  If you haven't already suggested it to them, storing it indoors or under cover in the Winter will greatly reduce how quickly the finish degrades.  And that applied to oil or varnish finishes.  I was shocked to see how much damage sun, snow, and cold, rinse and repeat, can do.


John

[Russell Hudson]

Maybe I should have said deep cleaned rather than stripped.  All I can tell you is that my Ipe' deck fades very quickly after a fresh coat of oil is applied, and after 6 months dirt and ??? is on/in it.  I've used both Ipe' Oil and Penofin Hardwood Oil.  The first year I stripped it because nothing else I tried would get it back to clean looking wood other than pressure washing with pressures that risked damaging the wood.  The following Spring I finally figured out that TSP + bleach would remove whatever it is.  I have built in planter boxes on the deck, too.  They do not suffer nearly as badly; they fade less and dirt doesn't build up on the vertical boards like it does on the deck.  Vertical applications like your doors don't get near the same amount of exposure and I'll bet that's why they looked good.  And the sun angle in the tropics is higher than where I live making the intensity less on a vertical surface.     


If anyone has any recommendations I'm happy to consider it.  I'm doing test boards to try to find something that will last longer.  Last year's tests were a bust. 

Russell, I hope the owners of your beautiful bench give it regular love to keep it looking new.  If you haven't already suggested it to them, storing it indoors or under cover in the Winter will greatly reduce how quickly the finish degrades.  And that applied to oil or varnish finishes.  I was shocked to see how much damage sun, snow, and cold, rinse and repeat, can do.


John