Shaker Doors
#11
I have made a lot of raised panel doors and always allowed for wood movement. First time making shaker doors for my daughters kitchen cabinets. Panel is plywood. Should I allow for movement or cut to size and add glue. That is basically how I do drawers, so I wondered what the vast eperience here would do?
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#12
(04-06-2019, 12:48 PM)Turner52 Wrote: I have made a lot of raised panel doors and always allowed for wood movement. First time making shaker doors for my daughters kitchen to the space.   Panel is plywood. Should I allow for movement or cut to size and add glue. That is basically how I do drawers, so  I wondered what the vast eperience here would do?


What would it hurt to leave an eighth?  Five plies before I'd trust it not to blow things open.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#13
You don't have to worry about the plywood panels moving much but the frames will to some extent.  I'd leave some room.
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#14
Roll up a rubber cement ball for each side—rattle free.
Gary

Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
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#15
(04-06-2019, 12:48 PM)Turner52 Wrote: I have made a lot of raised panel doors and always allowed for wood movement. First time making shaker doors for my daughters kitchen cabinets. Panel is plywood. Should I allow for movement or cut to size and add glue. That is basically how I do drawers, so  I wondered what the vast eperience here would do?

I've done it both ways and never had a problem either way.  Glued in panels reduce the stress on the frame, substantially.  

John
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#16
(04-06-2019, 05:51 PM)jteneyck Wrote: I've done it both ways and never had a problem either way.  Glued in panels reduce the stress on the frame, substantially.  

John

+1
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#17
Close to 50-50. Any other responses.
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#18
I leave a 1/16 to 1/8" to ensure my cope and stick goes together tightly especially if your panel is slightly out of square.
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#19
(04-07-2019, 02:00 PM)WoodworkerTom Wrote: I leave a 1/16 to 1/8" to ensure my cope and stick goes together tightly especially if your panel is slightly out of square.

I do this as well so there is a small amount of adjustability when assembling the frame pieces.
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#20
I make my shaker doors with 1/2" thick plywood for the panels.  I reduce the edges of the plywood with my dado blade, adjusting the thickness for a rattle-free panel.  

The advantages of the 1/2" plywood are:

  1. I can adjust the edge thickness for a rattle-free fit in the grooves.
  2. I can screw accessories to the inside of the door.
  3. It feels and looks more solid and the quality is perceived as superior.
  4. There is little cost difference between 1/4" and 1/2" per cabinet.
  5. From the outside there is visually no difference.  The panel is flush on the inside except for the reduced area on the edges.
I use a full saddle joint for the rails and stiles so I never worry about strength.  If I am not painting the cabinets I will often cross pin the corners with a square dowel for aesthetics (not for strength).

Paint or stain the panel prior to assembly.  Movement of the rails and stiles will expose more of the panels and a tell-tale reveal will show up.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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