Spraying kitchen cabinets
#21
  Re: RE: Spraying kitchen cabinets by Rob Young ([quote='Cooler' pid=...)
(04-15-2019, 12:00 PM)Rob Young Wrote: The GF "milk" paint is essentially an acrylic. Sprays well, levels well, thin with a splash of water. It has been my experience with the GF stuff that even the dark colors are a bit transparent and it is a minimum of 2 coats if you want to completely obscure grain, usually 3. Dries pretty quick being a water borne acrylic. So spray, wait, scuff, spray, etc. Does need a top coat of some kind if you want scratch resistance.

Milk paint made with, well milk, will be casein based and is quite durable if a bit powdery. I've never tried spraying it but heard legends of it being done. Filter, filter, filter was what they wrote. Also, I think they made it up the day before and let it slake overnight in the fridge. I've only brushed on the real stuff and it worked very well. Again, tends toward the transparent side but eventually can get opaque coverage.

Yes, it takes two coats of GF's Milk Paint, at least the black I used, to get a truly opaque finish, but it goes on great even with a foam brush.  I've applied it to narrow parts that way and then sprayed them afterwards with High Perf. Poly and it looks like a high end lacquer job.  

John
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#22
  Re: RE: Spraying kitchen cabinets by Cooler (The bigger issue, in...)
(04-11-2019, 03:38 PM)Cooler Wrote: <snip>
Insl-x makes a cabinet-specific paint that has had good reviews.  None of the local dealers carry the stuff so I have not tried it.
http://www.insl-x.com/
Have sprayed about 1/2 gallon of the Insl-x CabinetCoat. It benefitted from the max recommended thinning (10%) before going through my conversion HVLP with the 0.029 tip.

It lays down well. Primer (shellac Bullseye) plus 2 coats are what I used. Home Depot sells the satin (only); I had to mail-order the semi-gloss.

I looked at the Advance but the long recoat times were too long for a hobbyist with limited time-windows for spraying.

-Mark
If I had a signature, this wouldn't be it.
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#23
  Re: Spraying kitchen cabinets by Turner52 (Building a set of ca...)
I remodeled the kitchen at our old house with a kitchen I bought off Craigslist. I ignored the Sherwin Williams guy's advice not to spray the self-leveling paint I got. I ended up having to sand out the drips and runs and roll it on and let it do it's thing, which was to self-level. The surfaces all have to be horizontal. However, I did get a really nice paint job. I don't remember the specific Sherwin Wlilliams paint line I used.
Janus was a disaster, coming or going - K. L, McReynolds 07/01/2015

My blog: http://wcwoodworking.blogspot.com/
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#24
  Re: Spraying kitchen cabinets by Turner52 (Building a set of ca...)
This Old House awhile back had painted cabinets that were "Hand Brushed" as an upcharge for the handmade look. When I redid my kitchen a few years ago and my wife wanted painted cabinets I went to SW and got a gallon. Brushed it on and it looks great. Don't discount the simplest option.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#25
  Re: Spraying kitchen cabinets by Turner52 (Building a set of ca...)
I use the Home Depot hvlp gravity feed cup gun. About 50.00. Tried the harbor freight purple version. Not as good. For paint I use sw pro classic acrylic laytex. Very durable. Washable done a lot of cabinets with this set up. Thin the paint about 25% add a little flotrol run about 40 - 45 psi with the trigger pulled. 1 coat primer. 2 coats paint
Gary
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#26
  Re: RE: Spraying kitchen cabinets by garmar60 (I use the Home Depot...)
(05-15-2019, 08:53 PM)garmar60 Wrote: I use the Home Depot hvlp gravity feed cup gun. About 50.00. Tried the harbor freight purple version. Not as good. For paint I use sw pro classic acrylic laytex. Very durable. Washable  done a lot of cabinets with this set up. Thin the paint about 25% add a little flotrol run about 40 - 45 psi with the trigger pulled. 1 coat primer. 2 coats paint
Gary

Do you thin with water and then add a little flotrol, or do you just thin with the flotrol?
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#27
  Re: RE: Spraying kitchen cabinets by ajkoontz ([quote='garmar60' pi...)
(05-16-2019, 08:11 AM)ajkoontz Wrote: Do you thin with water and then add a little flotrol, or do you just thin with the flotrol?

Flotrol generally doesn't thin paint much as it has a heavy-cream consistency. Certainly lower viscosity than many modern paints but way more than water.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#28
  Re: Spraying kitchen cabinets by Turner52 (Building a set of ca...)
I thin with water then add the flotrol. I have not seen any issue with finish durability or hardness. Done kitchen and bath cabinets, grand kids dressers and beds. Most items made with maple for drawer fronts, face frames and tops.
Thanks
Gary
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#29
  Re: RE: Spraying kitchen cabinets by garmar60 (I thin with water th...)
(05-16-2019, 06:46 PM)garmar60 Wrote: I thin with water then add the flotrol. I have not seen any issue with finish durability or hardness. Done kitchen and bath cabinets, grand kids dressers and beds. Most items made with maple for drawer fronts, face frames and tops.
Thanks
Gary

Thanks for the tips. I've used the SW paint mentioned in the thread above. LOVE IT! I've brushed and used a small airless- never thinned but add a tablespoon or so of flotrol to every quart. I wasn't sure if you could thin it that much (25%) and still get good results. I may try that with my HVLP set-up.
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#30
  Re: RE: Spraying kitchen cabinets by ajkoontz ([quote='garmar60' pi...)
(05-17-2019, 11:09 AM)ajkoontz Wrote: Thanks for the tips. I've used the SW paint mentioned in the thread above. LOVE IT! I've brushed and used a small airless- never thinned but add a tablespoon or so of flotrol to every quart. I wasn't sure if you could thin it that much (25%) and still get good results. I may try that with my HVLP set-up.

It would be better to get a gun that can spray ProClassic, or any high viscosity product, with minimal thinning.  Alternatively, find a product that has a low enough viscosity to spray with the gun you have.  

You likely could use your current HVLP gun if you put a pressure assisted cup on it.  The 3M PPS H/O cup system can be fitted to nearly any bottom or gravity feed gun.  A small secondary air regulator controls the pressure to the cup independent of the pressure to the gun.  At 5 psi to the cup I can spray ProClassic through a 1.5 mm N/N set w/o thinning.  Same thing with BM Advance, another product with very high viscosity.  It costs about $150 for a PPS H/O cup with a bunch of disposable (or reusable if you clean them like I do) lids and liners, and an adapter for your gun.  A huge side benefit of the pressurized cup is that it allows you to spray at any angle, even upside down.  That feature alone make it highly desirable for anyone who has to spray inside of cabinets, up under something, etc.  

The other approach is to use a product with low enough viscosity to spray with your current HVLP gun.  Assuming you have a gun with something around 1.4 mm N/N (same as the purple HF gun, BTW), you could spray Lenmar Duralaq-WB and Undercoater without thinning.  I buy both products at my local BM dealer.  It comes in clear, white, and black, and they can custom tint it to any of BM's 3000+ colors.  Duralaq-WB is an acrylic system, just like ProClassic.  The viscosity of the white version is incredibly low, lower than BIN shellac based primer.  The Undercoater's viscosity is even lower.  A gallon of Duralaq-WB costs about $55 including any tinting you ask for and NY sales tax.  The Undercoater is about $35, which is cheaper than BIN.  Both products spray great and the finish is very hard.  I had essentially zero grain raising from the Undercoater on maple and MDF.  

Something to consider.  

John
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