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I need to repaint the front door. The door appears to be fiberglass and it almost looks like it has stain or some type of sealer over, and looks terrible which is why we are painting it. Couple questions: any particular type of paint? Surface prep? Number of coats? Thanks for any advice....FPT
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If you want easy to paint and want it to last use oil based paint. Brand doesn't really matter. Oil will flow out may way better than latex if you are brushing it and is much more durable. I painted our fiberglass door before I installed it 8+ years ago and it still looks like it did the day I painted it.
Clean the door very well then scuff it up with a gray scotchbrite wipe it down with wax and grease remover or mineral spirits. Then put a coat or two of paint on it. Assuming you can put oil over whatever is on it now. But personally I would use oil no matter what on a door as I don't like latex paint for much anything other than walls.
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(06-06-2019, 08:51 PM)fptahoe Wrote: I need to repaint the front door. The door appears to be fiberglass and it almost looks like it has stain or some type of sealer over, and looks terrible which is why we are painting it. Couple questions: any particular type of paint? Surface prep? Number of coats? Thanks for any advice....FPT
Rattle can, scuff sand and clean thoroughly like the first reply, 3 coats minimum- will give you a smooth factory finish look. You can use any exterior paint but if you roll or brush it won't look like a factory finish. I painted my front door with the same paint as I painted my house, SW Duration, and it looks good- it just doesn't look like a factory finish.
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(06-06-2019, 09:39 PM)Robert Adams Wrote: If you want easy to paint and want it to last use oil based paint. Brand doesn't really matter. Oil will flow out may way better than latex if you are brushing it and is much more durable. I painted our fiberglass door before I installed it 8+ years ago and it still looks like it did the day I painted it.
Clean the door very well then scuff it up with a gray scotchbrite wipe it down with wax and grease remover or mineral spirits. Then put a coat or two of paint on it. Assuming you can put oil over whatever is on it now. But personally I would use oil no matter what on a door as I don't like latex paint for much anything other than walls.
This is what I'd do.. But, I'd wash it with 10% yellow ammonia to water and rinse it with clean water. Mineral spirits can leave a residue and prevent proper bonding. Ammonia cuts grease, silicone and oil real well. The yellow stuff usually has a little soap in it so make sure it's rinsed after washing. Paint generally doesn't like sticking to fiberglass so I would make sure I primed it first. I if I had spray equipment, I'd shoot it with a single stage lacquer.
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If you can manage it, remove the door and paint on saw horses. No drips or sags that way.
A lot of paints "block", that is they will "glue" themselves to adjoining surfaces when left in contact with them. The cure is to let them dry for 10 days or so.
PPG's Breakthrough (250 VOC only) does not suffer this issue and dries in less than one hour. So you can paint, re-coat and re-hang in one afternoon. But buy some filters too. The stuff dries so fast that you will want to filter after each break you take.
Note: I have no experience with th 50 VOC stuff, but I've been told that it is not nearly as good.
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Some well respected door makers will argue that doors should be painted only with a brush. I like the uniform look of a sprayed finish, but the only way to practically do that is to take the door down. If you do that, it's best to block in the opening with plywood, etc. while the door is off. I had one customer who was happy with just his storm door lock for the 5 or 6 days it took to rehab his door. Not many folks are that trusting.
Anyway, I like waterborne paints. SW Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel is very nice. I haven't used it, but SW Snap Dry is specifically made to dry in an hour or so, so you can repaint the door while it hangs and close it again the same day. FWIW, waterborne paints will flow out just as well as oil based ones if you add a little Extender to it. BM makes a very good product called "Extender". 3 - 6% works well in most applications.
John
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I used SW oil based paint the last time I painted ours - 19 years ago. I need to repaint because of the stupid keys chipping the paint. Mine is metal of I had a different approach. I stripped mine. I also made a temporary door so I could do all the flat. After I stripped it I primed it and put 2 coats of paint (spray). I let it sit out side a few days before rehanging it.
John
Always use the right tool for the job.
We need to clean house.
