Harlequin side table
#31
Nice execution on the joinery. I assume you have to be careful to not undercut the dovetails so as to not show gaps when rounding the corners?

Will the legs be round or oval? How do you size them for a piece of these proportions?

Matt
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#32
Thank you for the description of how you round over the dovetails. I was wondering how you do that.
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#33
(06-17-2019, 01:38 AM)mdhills Wrote: Nice execution on the joinery. I assume you have to be careful to not undercut the dovetails so as to not show gaps when rounding the corners?

Will the legs be round or oval?  How do you size them for a piece of these proportions?

Matt

Matt, the legs are round ... and tapered ...  They are 99% done. I plan to install them this weekend, and I should be in a position to begin basic preparation for the drawers.

How do I size the legs? Well the top of the table is 600mm high, and the legs begin 50mm below the top, which makes the legs 550mm long. I did turn about three prototypes, and then looked at the finished legs, and refined them further. The fun bit is using the new lathe (Nova Saturn, which replaced a Jet mini).

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#34
I assume it is explained on your website, but what is the significance of the washer? I really love those rounded case corners.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#35
(06-17-2019, 08:14 PM)cputnam Wrote: I assume it is explained on your website, but what is the significance of the washer?  I really love those rounded case corners.

The washer was traced to create the shape for the rounded ends. 

I do love the rounded dovetails as well. The table is for my wife, and the effect is very feminine.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#36
(06-18-2019, 11:09 AM)Derek Cohen Wrote: The washer was traced to create the shape for the rounded ends. 

I do love the rounded dovetails as well. The table is for my wife, and the effect is very feminine.

Regards from Perth

Derek

......................
Yep, the rounded dovetails make the piece IMO.....nice work....I do hope you are signing and dating your work, Derek...It needs to be burned into the surface, not just signed with a black marker. Your craftsmanship and attention to detail deserves to be recognized an remembered.
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

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Get off my lawn !
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#37
(06-18-2019, 11:52 AM)Timberwolf Wrote: ......................
Yep, the rounded dovetails make the piece IMO.....nice work....I do hope you are signing and dating your work, Derek...It needs to be burned into the surface, not just signed with a black marker. Your craftsmanship  and attention to detail deserves to be recognized an remembered.

100% agree.  You work at a level I hope to attain someday.
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#38
The case was completed last time ...

[Image: 48.jpg]

... but before the drawer dividers can be permanently installed, the legs need to be made and attached.

This was the original drawing ...

[Image: HarlequinTable_html_3164fb49.jpg]

Some has been retained and some has been changed.

Instead of curved legs, which I later decided did not match the overall style, I decided on round, tapered legs that will splay out from the case.

Before turning the legs, the splay was created by tapering the top of the legs on the table saw. The slider uses a Fritz and Frans jig to rip the end at the chosen angle (8 degrees). This ensured that the splay angle would be the same for all legs.

[Image: 49.jpg]

The blanks were then turned to shape. Here I am checking that the near-to-finished legs are the same dimensions and have the same taper angle ...

[Image: 50.jpg]

The ends were then cut off and the top was shaped with rasps and sandpaper ...

[Image: 51.jpg]

How to attach the legs? Well, that had given me a real headache. I was thinking along the lines of a loose tenon ... overcomplicating matters (as usual). A number suggested simply glueing and screwing. I was skeptical, but of course, a glue joint alone is generally stronger than the wood ... and reason prevailed
Smile

There are three screws per leg, which were countersunk for the drawers. The glue chosen was Titebond III.

[Image: 52.jpg]

[Image: 53.jpg]

All cleaned up, this is what we have (drumroll) ...

[Image: 54.jpg]

[Image: 55.jpg]

[Image: 56.jpg]

The splay to the side is 8 degree, and from the sides, the legs are aligned with the front and rear of the case.

[Image: 57.jpg]

Drawers next
Smile

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#39
Beautiful work, as usual Derek! The leg design and attachment reminds me of the some of the classic furniture here in the states during the 1950's, early '60's. Much of it is still around. Looking forward to the grand finale!

Doug
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#40
Thanks Doug.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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