Issue with Maytag Gas dryer
#11
So my gf txts me on Sunday to say the dryer isn't getting hot--it spins ok, but not warming up.
I spend the whole afternoon diagnosing-- watching videos and testing things.
I determine it's probably the gas valve solenoids-- get new ones delivered, no dice.  Same symptoms.

Turn on the dryer-- igniter starts glowing-- gas flame lights ok... burns for about 2-5 mins, then shuts off.  Igniter glows again, but no flame next time.
I thoroughly cleaned out the whole dryer-- the exhaust pipe...etc.
I tried bypassing the high limit thermostat, but just connecting the leads together, same symptom.
I ran the dryer with no exhaust hose (even tho ours is only 3 feet long), same thing.
Replaced the coil solenoids, same thing.

What else could this be?

Also, when running a gas dryer, is it normal for the flame to cycle on and off throughout, or does it normally stay on during?

Colin
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#12
(08-14-2019, 11:47 AM)Cdshakes Wrote: So my gf txts me on Sunday to say the dryer isn't getting hot--it spins ok, but not warming up.
I spend the whole afternoon diagnosing-- watching videos and testing things.
I determine it's probably the gas valve solenoids-- get new ones delivered, no dice.  Same symptoms.

Turn on the dryer-- igniter starts glowing-- gas flame lights ok... burns for about 2-5 mins, then shuts off.  Igniter glows again, but no flame next time.
I thoroughly cleaned out the whole dryer-- the exhaust pipe...etc.
I tried bypassing the high limit thermostat, but just connecting the leads together, same symptom.
I ran the dryer with no exhaust hose (even tho ours is only 3 feet long), same thing.
Replaced the coil solenoids, same thing.

What else could this be?

Also, when running a gas dryer, is it normal for the flame to cycle on and off throughout, or does it normally stay on during?

Colin

Maybe a bad flame sensor.  About the only thing left.  Roly
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#13
(08-14-2019, 12:02 PM)Roly Wrote: Maybe a bad flame sensor.  About the only thing left.  Roly

that would allow it to run for a couple mins before killing the flame?

that tested with a simple continuity test?
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#14
(08-14-2019, 12:18 PM)Cdshakes Wrote: that would allow it to run for a couple mins before killing the flame?

that tested with a simple continuity test?

maybe you have low gas pressure... check the line and pipe after the valve.  crud may be obstructing something.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#15
(08-14-2019, 11:47 AM)Cdshakes Wrote: So my gf txts me on Sunday to say the dryer isn't getting hot--it spins ok, but not warming up.
I spend the whole afternoon diagnosing-- watching videos and testing things.
I determine it's probably the gas valve solenoids-- get new ones delivered, no dice.  Same symptoms.

Turn on the dryer-- igniter starts glowing-- gas flame lights ok... burns for about 2-5 mins, then shuts off.  Igniter glows again, but no flame next time.
I thoroughly cleaned out the whole dryer-- the exhaust pipe...etc.
I tried bypassing the high limit thermostat, but just connecting the leads together, same symptom.
I ran the dryer with no exhaust hose (even tho ours is only 3 feet long), same thing.
Replaced the coil solenoids, same thing.

What else could this be?

Also, when running a gas dryer, is it normal for the flame to cycle on and off throughout, or does it normally stay on during?

Colin

Cycles on and off...you tried all the things I tried...last time it happened, I bought an Samsung gas dryer on clearance sale at Lowes. $113.00. Yup, brand new, non display...$113.00
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Samsung-7-4-cu-...1000018787
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#16
(08-14-2019, 12:43 PM)brianwelch Wrote: Cycles on and off...you tried all the things I tried...last time it happened, I bought an Samsung gas dryer on clearance sale at Lowes. $113.00. Yup, brand new, non display...$113.00
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Samsung-7-4-cu-...1000018787

yeah, not going to dump too much money into this... the solenoids were 9 bux.
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#17
I believe there are temp sensors in there. depending on the setting you set it on will allow whatever ones need to be on.
John T.
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#18
I don't know what type gas valve you have. I imagine you tested to see that the valve (solenoid?) is actually getting proper voltage?

Obviously the board is getting the signal to operate, and the ignitor is working, so somewhere you have a voltage to the valve problem which could be a connection somewhere, voltage polarity problem or a bad board.

I see no shematic so it's guesswork.
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#19
(08-14-2019, 11:11 PM)daddo Wrote: I don't know what type gas valve you have. I imagine you tested to see that the valve (solenoid?) is actually getting proper voltage?

Obviously the board is getting the signal to operate, and the ignitor is working, so somewhere you have a voltage to the valve problem which could be a connection somewhere, voltage polarity problem or a bad board.

I see no shematic so it's guesswork.

no idea what the proper voltage should be... 
hate the idea of throwing this thing out when it might just be a 10 dollar part.

still don't know whether flame is supposed to be on the whole time, or is cycling on and off normal?
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#20
(08-14-2019, 11:11 PM)daddo Wrote: I don't know what type gas valve you have. I imagine you tested to see that the valve (solenoid?) is actually getting proper voltage?

Obviously the board is getting the signal to operate, and the ignitor is working, so somewhere you have a voltage to the valve problem which could be a connection somewhere, voltage polarity problem or a bad board.

I see no shematic so it's guesswork.

There are 2 solenoids on the valve - replace them.  It's really easy and cheap.  Sounds like they are not fully engaging the valve - very common problem.
John

Always use the right tool for the job.

We need to clean house.
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