Well

[Robert Adams]

Maybe 2 centuries ago.
 

I said a inline pump. Switch a valve on the pump. Hand pump or use your submersible pump.

https://www.bisonpumps.com/product/inline-pump/

http://www.bisonpumps.com/wp-content/upl...d-Pump.pdf

 If you read the install manual you have to pull the pump then put their mechanical pump above the electric pump at 20' below static water level. Then instead of just a 1" pipe you had before you now have to run a 2" or 2.5" drop pipe which houses the sucker rod not to mention the volume taken up by the mechanical pump . So you are back at the same issue and maybe worse water displacement in the well because a 2" pipe takes up a bunch of space in a well.  
         If you have a 6" bore that's really deep as in a few hundred feet and a high static level then it's no biggie but on a 100' ish 4" bore it's a no go.

[Stwood_]

I've read the specs. My well casing is 6" and a 6" pump cap is available in that style pump.
The difference in a 1" (present) pipe and a 2" pipe for a short distance is irrelevant in pumping water from 160' of depth (pump set). I have water 30' down in a 200' deep well.

You are whizzing out specs that don't apply to my well.

[toolmiser]

Our house had both a well and city water when we purchased 30 years ago. Lawyer suggested I contact the City, County, DNR etc to see if they had any concerns. Nobody had record of it. So we used it about 10 years for watering, and one day I get a letter from the county/city telling me I needed to get it inspected, and water tested-in Jan in Wisconsin. I told them I don't do much watering in Jan. so they let me wait til spring. I had it tested, when required, replaced the pump once, and had some other things go wrong. Pressure tank had to be at least 40 years old. Last year the pump went out again, we decided to get it "abandoned". I didn't want to fill it but it wasn't cost effective having it. Cost us about $300.00 to have it done. Now I don't have to think about it.