gift cutting board finish question
#10
Hard maple (old bowling lane approach wood) and walnut simple cutting board that will be a gift.  No finish? Food safe oil? Waxed and buffed? I can't make up my mind. Looking for suggestions.
Jim

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#11
Here's the one from Howie that's been posted dozens of time, but none too recently. I've used it with good success. Once mixed the wax and mineral oil lasts nearly forever....

From Howard Acheson:
An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store. 

Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.

Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry. Never put a wood board in the dishwasher and don't soak it in dishwater for long periods.
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#12
I use mineral oil because it's cheap, easy and the new owner can refresh it easily.
Mark

I'm no expert, unlike everybody else here - Busdrver


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#13
(08-30-2019, 09:47 AM)joe1086 Wrote: Here's the one from Howie that's been posted dozens of time, but none too recently. I've used it with good success. Once mixed the wax and mineral oil lasts nearly forever....

From Howard Acheson:
An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store. 

Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.

Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry. Never put a wood board in the dishwasher and don't soak it in dishwater for long periods.

+1.  This is what I do.
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#14
(08-30-2019, 12:08 PM)WxMan Wrote: +1.  This is what I do.

+2
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#15
What ever happened to Howard?
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#16
(08-30-2019, 12:55 PM)FrankAtl Wrote: What ever happened to Howard?

I asked the same question some time ago and don't think I got any replies.

As for cutting board finish, mineral oil and beeswax is great.  I bought a bottle of this at Lowes, because I didn't have any beeswax and couldn't find any locally.  It's a little pricey, but in a pinch......
I've done several small cheese boards with it and have used very little of the bottle.

[Image: howard_butcher_block_conditioner__19945....40.jpg?c=2]
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#17
(08-30-2019, 09:32 AM)stoppy Wrote: Hard maple (old bowling lane approach wood) and walnut simple cutting board that will be a gift.  No finish? Food safe oil? Waxed and buffed? I can't make up my mind. Looking for suggestions.
Walnut oil for me.  Heated, it penetrates, cures with time.  

Or, if you want a treatment rather than a finish - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Murray-s-Yell...2ab8d9ba12

honey, and the residual in the beeswax, is antibacterial.

NB - Make and give TWO, one to prepare food to be cooked, one to prepare food to eat uncooked.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#18
I use same as Bill on my end grain maple boards.


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