Cutting top off of dovetail box
#11
Maybe this belongs in power tools, but I think the hand tools crowd will have the edge. You know the technique where you make a 6-sided box, then saw the top off? If you have done this on a bandsaw, how did you do it? One cut? Cut in from each each? A different method?

I'm sure if I get reasonably flat and even cuts, I can true up the top and bottom with hand planes. I've never tried this method, not sure the best way to get an even cut all the way through. 

Thanks in advance.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#12
(09-04-2019, 02:50 PM)Aram Wrote: Maybe this belongs in power tools, but I think the hand tools crowd will have the edge. You know the technique where you make a 6-sided box, then saw the top off? If you have done this on a bandsaw, how did you do it? One cut? Cut in from each each? A different method?

I'm sure if I get reasonably flat and even cuts, I can true up the top and bottom with hand planes. I've never tried this method, not sure the best way to get an even cut all the way through. 

Thanks in advance.

I've cut box tops off in table saws (4 cuts) and bandsaws (single cut). Both work but I've not been completely happy with either one. They require some clean up work and sometimes it's fiddly to get the top to mate perfectly after the clean up. The last time I did this, I used a 1/16" slot cutter on my router table. It worked like a charm and left perfect mating surfaces. I'll use this method from now on.
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#13
(09-04-2019, 03:33 PM)Hank Knight Wrote:  The last time I did this, I used a 1/16" slot cutter on my router table. It worked like a charm and left perfect mating surfaces. I'll use this method from now on.

Thanks. Do you insert 1/16 shims into the kerfs to keep the top level?
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#14
I use the Stanley 45.   Two grooves, set so they over lap a hair...goal is to use a sharp knife to separate the top and bottom....first groove goes around on the inside, be sure to mark on the outside where this groove is.....assemble and glue the box together....once the glue is cured, run the 45 around on the outside....use the knife to separate.....
   
   
   
Once the box is out of the clamps, reset the 45, and run these grooves, just below the inside grooves...
   
Then adjust the fit....
   
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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#15
(09-04-2019, 06:28 PM)Aram Wrote: Thanks. Do you insert 1/16 shims into the kerfs to keep the top level?

I haven't found shims necessary. The slot cutter cuts very clean and easy. If I apply reasonable pressure on the box against the fence, the top doesn't slip and I can push it past the cutter without needing shims.
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#16
(09-04-2019, 07:08 PM)bandit571 Wrote: I use the Stanley 45.   Two grooves, set so they over lap a hair...goal is to use a sharp knife to separate the top and bottom....first groove goes around on the inside, be sure to mark on the outside where this groove is.....assemble and glue the box together....once the glue is cured, run the 45 around on the outside....use the knife to separate.....



Once the box is out of the clamps, reset the 45, and run these grooves, just below the inside grooves...

Then adjust the fit....

This is a great idea!
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#17
(09-04-2019, 08:53 PM)Hank Knight Wrote: I haven't found shims necessary. The slot cutter cuts very clean and easy. If I apply reasonable pressure on the box against the fence, the top doesn't slip and I can push it past the cutter without needing shims.

Thank you. That's helpful.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
Reply
#18
This is my "professional" way of separating a glued up box on the table saw...to be truthful, it is not my way but that of box maker Doug Stowe that I learned. He probably has made more boxes than anyone else under the sky.

Set the blade to cut close to the thickness of but NOT through the stock
Use a sharp knife to test if it can poke through part of the thin wall
If it can't, raise the blade a hair and check with the knife until it does. 
Use the same blade height setting to cut the rest of the box
Use the knife to separate the box
Push over to break off the edges
Light sand the box and lid (on a flat surface).

No shims needed.

The band saw in my opinion is not a good way to split a box unless yours is well tuned to cut straight and square. Mine certainly is not up for the task.

This technique is not just for boxes but also good for medium size cabinets.

Simon
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#19
(09-04-2019, 07:08 PM)bandit571 Wrote: I use the Stanley 45.   Two grooves, set so they over lap a hair...goal is to use a sharp knife to separate the top and bottom....first groove goes around on the inside, be sure to mark on the outside where this groove is.....assemble and glue the box together....once the glue is cured, run the 45 around on the outside....use the knife to separate.....



Once the box is out of the clamps, reset the 45, and run these grooves, just below the inside grooves...

Then adjust the fit....

Beautiful box
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#20
If I knew that my bandsaw would make a straight cut, I would cut it through. Been fiddling around with it so maybe it will cut straight now, but I think I would make 4 cuts after testing that the table was square to the blade.
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