Will be trying a Lump Hammer of sorts
#39
  Re: Will be trying a Lump Hammer of sorts by C. in Indy (I haven't yet sprung...)
I have NEVER needed to seat a hold down with anything heavier than 7 oz. Often I just use my hand.

My most used mallet is about 16 or 17 oz, which is a re-handled Veritas Cabinetmakers hammer.




That 28 oz mallet I posted earlier occasionally gets hauled out if morticing very hard wood but, frankly, when it is that hard, I prefer using a router and morticing jig.

I really do not need a steel hammer to force joints together, and if it was necessary I could use the heavy mallet. I test fit everything beforehand and avoid having to bash parts. The hide glue I use actually facilitates a smooth joining of parts.

Perhaps the lump hammer is best reserved for specific types of furniture, such as wacking round tenons into chair mortices?

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at http://www.inthewoodshop.com
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#40
  Re: RE: Will be trying a Lump Hammer of sorts by Bibliophile 13 (Ah, thank Heaven som...)
(09-10-2019, 10:36 PM)Bibliophile 13 Wrote:   And who spends $85 on a simple hammer, anyway?  
The answer to this question is easy, in two words - celebrity power. If someone else was trying to sell such hammers even for just $60, people would riot. Winkgrin 

Sellers sells books, but imagine what if he were selling some British woodworking gadgets.

This is what social media is all about. Get a following and money will follow you. It works on teens, adults, and.... woodworkers.

Simon
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#41
  Re: RE: Will be trying a Lump Hammer of sorts by Derek Cohen (I have NEVER needed ...)
(09-11-2019, 12:03 AM)Derek Cohen Wrote: I really do not need a steel hammer to force joints together,

Regards from Perth

Derek

I was scratching my head...do people work with STEEL WOOD? Wouldn't a steel hammer leave an indentation on the wood if you banged on it? Why clamps alone wouldn't be enough to close a joint? I never buy the glue seize story...it is an excuse for poor joinery work or poor glue up preparation or both, period.

Simon
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#42
  Re: Will be trying a Lump Hammer of sorts by C. in Indy (I haven't yet sprung...)
Then again, everybody else knows to place a block of scrap wood where the hammer would be hitting....how else?   Confused 
Even Norm Abram use a scrap of wood between the hammer and the dovetail joints he machine made....


But, there are some that merely push a draw-bore pin into place with their thumb...... Rolleyes
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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#43
  Re: Will be trying a Lump Hammer of sorts by C. in Indy (I haven't yet sprung...)
Metal hammer + block is ok if you use it sparingly. Occasionally you do need some force for persuasion. But that would not be my primary tool and method for assembly.

Watch how ISHITANI does carcass assembly (with tight dovetails or not) using a rubber mallet.

For the record, I do use my Japanese metal hammer when dry fitting dovetails as it gives a better feedback (sound). In the final assembly, hand fitting (fist , not thumb :-) ) and clamping are used.

Simon
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#44
  Re: Will be trying a Lump Hammer of sorts by C. in Indy (I haven't yet sprung...)
Like when test fitting pine drawer sides, to Ash drawer fronts....when both parts of the dovetail joint are tight.  Block of wood, and a hammer sized for the task....pine compresses a bit, Ash doesn't.  Winkgrin

I use a few counter-bore plugs, to cover screw,. Rolleyes ....best way to make sure they seat in the hole, is a well-placed whack....with a 7oz riveting hammer, and, IF one pays attention to the grain, plugs disappear. Cool ...NO, I do not let end grain show, I use face grain plugs, cut from cut-offs of the same board, with a plug cutter.   Cool


Would rather drive a joint together, with the rawhide mallet....then fumble around trying to add clamps.....once the parts are glued and together...THEN I can add the clamps as needed...since I would have BOTH hands available to monkey around with the clamps.... Rolleyes 

Just like my handplanes, I size the tool to the task needing done....Hammers, chisels, saws....planes.   I don't use a No. 8 to do the work a #3 can do...I don't use a 32oz ball pean, where a 7oz hammer would do the job.

Yes, I do watch Ishitani videos.....I also watch ones from GE Hong....I'll even watch New Yankee Workshop videos, when I get bored....
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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#45
  Re: Will be trying a Lump Hammer of sorts by C. in Indy (I haven't yet sprung...)
Most (98%+?) of my furniture joinery is hard wood to hard wood. Little room for compression...risk of breakage is high if I use a sledgehammer.

Simon
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#46
  Re: Will be trying a Lump Hammer of sorts by C. in Indy (I haven't yet sprung...)
Whatever....YMMV, I guess...
   
   
Is also very good at driving small nails...
   
Rawhide mallet also works...
   
and..
   
yep.
   
YMMV...
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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