Desk Design Questions
#11
Need to pick you-all's brain.

A friend has asked my to build a large desk for him and his wife. It will be 2 pieces; a 60" x 26" table with a 72" x 26" table butted against the first one to form a 60" x 98" L shape. This will be about 36" tall or Pub table height.

The base will be 1" black pipe. We were discussing the material choices for the top. He is interested in 8/4 Walnut, which I can get and is in his price range.

Questions are:

1. What thickness do you think would look best?

2. I can also get just about any other domestic woods in 8/4. What other species can be stained a nice brownish for a desk top. Not sure that flat sawn red oak would work, but I can get white oak, hickory, ash, elm, etc...  Their floor is a dark brown wood grained type flooring. They also have an entertainment center that looks like some sort of mahogany so they want a medium to dark brown desk top and want it to look really nice. Cost is not a big factor, but the walnut will cost more than 2x what the other species will cost.

3. Would you keep it a simple glue-up or would you add breadboard ends?

4. Any ideas on attaching the desks together other then a simple batten screwed from the underside. It would be end grain against long grain.  I am thinking maybe a angled steel bracket darkened and antiqued for the inside corner, and possibly repeating that for all the outside corners as well.
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#12
First thought would be to make the top appear to be about 2-1/2 to 3 in. thick by turning the edges piece at the front. I'd let that show on the ends, though. Join the two tops on the underside with a piece of steel about 3" wide. Make sure to elongate the holes on the side where the plate attaches cross grain. 

Second thought: Can you get 8/4 live edge stuff? If so, that could look nice but don't join the tops at all.
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#13
Would look best in the environment.  You need to see the room in which it is to be placed.  The surrounding furniture, wall art, molding, etc. may give you a clue.

Also consider live edge.  It seems to go with everything.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#14
I have thought about making the front edge thicker, but would have to do something like breadboard ends to maintain the thickness on the ends as well.

This is going to be his work desk as he works from home. Not sure that live edge would work, but that is an option if I can find just the right slabs. The problem with live edge will be where the end of one table joins the front edge of the other table. I will be looking at some local walnut tonight, but most of it is probably 5/4. On Saturday, I will be heading (1 hour away) up to my regular lumber supplier to look at 8/4 material and slabs.
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#15
If you work it as a design detail, you wouldn't need to make the ends thicker. I'd make a sketch of what I have in mind but I'm sitting in an airport waiting for my flight.
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#16
(09-19-2019, 11:23 AM)DaveR1 Wrote: If you work it as a design detail, you wouldn't need to make the ends thicker. I'd make a sketch of what I have in mind but I'm sitting in an airport waiting for my flight.

I think I know what your describing.
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#17
(09-19-2019, 02:17 PM)Scoony Wrote: I think I know what your describing.

Not sure how you could do something that large, but I have been very pleased when fume (ammonia ) small pieces of white oak.  It darkens very nicely.
 Put container in plastic bag with object, but your size is a little large for process.
Bob
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#18
(09-19-2019, 11:14 AM)Scoony Wrote: I have thought about making the front edge thicker, but would have to do something like breadboard ends to maintain the thickness on the ends as well.

Same idea on the ends, but your glued on piece would be end grain to match the top. So maybe a glued up piece 26" wide and 4" long. 

If he wants wood that looks like walnut, and can afford it, then build it with walnut. Heck of lot easier than making some other wood look like walnut, and makes the top easier to refinish if it gets damaged in the future. It's fairly easy to make varnished walnut look like varnished walnut. Matching poplar stained to look like walnut come out the same is more of a mission.
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#19
Scoony,  not sure why they would want the tables to meet end to side.  If it were me,  I would go with two separate tables -  they can put them together or apart as the need arises, rather than one fixed piece.  I have made about a half dozen desks for work friends.   Each of them asked for live edge, and we went with the electric lift desk legs -  it made making the desks very easy.  Just get the top flat, and made a small shelf to go below the top to hold the cpu, attach the leg assembly and good to go. Everyone who has one loves it.  I just checked Amazon and the model that I used is listed as unavailable, but there are many others for around $300.
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#20
(09-19-2019, 07:26 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: Scoony,  not sure why they would want the tables to meet end to side.  If it were me,  I would go with two separate tables -  they can put them together or apart as the need arises, rather than one fixed piece.  I have made about a half dozen desks for work friends.   Each of them asked for live edge, and we went with the electric lift desk legs -  it made making the desks very easy.  Just get the top flat, and made a small shelf to go below the top to hold the cpu, attach the leg assembly and good to go. Everyone who has one loves it.  I just checked Amazon and the model that I used is listed as unavailable, but there are many others for around $300.

The tables don't necessarily need to attach, but they have a particular spot in the house for it and it will not be moved once in place. It will be a "L" shape desk with room for both him and his wife. I am going over there tonight to confirm measurements, finalize the plan, and will be bringing a few wood species that I have on hand for him and wife to look at.  They like the industrial black pipe look for the base, but I will look into the desk legs you mentioned.
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