On a table saw what causes blade burn?
  Re: On a table saw what causes blade burn? by stoppy (I'm not a big table ...)
Daddo said what I was going to say, but I'll repeat it with different words. If you pause the feed or take it too slowly, the blade will heat up. If you're seeing burn marks on your stock, that's a clue you've got to correct something. Some woods are more prone to burning than others. Cherry, for one. Also, if you're cutting pine or fir or something with high resin / sap content, you'll need to clean your blade. The sap gets on the blade around the teeth and causes more friction = heat = burning.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
  Re: On a table saw what causes blade burn? by stoppy (I'm not a big table ...)
To me, the key point is that the burning is only at the end of the cut.  I agree with MichaelMouse that this suggests something about your technique, and that better control of the stock through the blade should make all parts of the cut behave in the same way.  

Be thankful it was pointed out to you by only burning.  Lack of control at the end of the cut can lead to the most dangerous type of kickback.  Pushblocks and a splitters are useful to prevent this.
  Re: RE: On a table saw what causes blade burn? by Dumb_Polack ([quote='Willyou' pid...)
(10-07-2019, 03:24 PM)Dumb_Polack Wrote: Don't tell anyone, but this past weekend I installed a blade backwards and it burned like hail!!!

Can I get an "Amen" from the other fellers here who have done this???

Bet it didn't cut worth a darn either?  Crazy
  Re: On a table saw what causes blade burn? by stoppy (I'm not a big table ...)
Cherry likes to burn easily, and I took advantage of that and experimented. I stripped, from scrap pieces, some 3/4 x 3/4 strips and purposely allowed burned cuts throughout the lengths. I then glued those up to make a small table top. I arranged the burn marks in a controlled design. I got a lot of good comments on it.

In your situation, I would say at the end of your cut, the piece is moving sideways into the blade. Your cutting is slowing down or the splitter is off a few thousands or your fence is slightly off.  
*Smooth the surface or adjust your outfeed table so the longer pieces aren't dragging at the farthest end.
*See if your splitter is the same width as the blades kerf or that it is parallel with the blade and fence.
*Make deliberate and steady pressure feeds.
*Test the blades runout.
*Try a new blade.

 If all else fails;
*Make the cut a 1/16" wider then use the jointer, planer, drum sander to size- or just sand it.

*Stain it black. Uhoh
"There are no strangers- only friends I haven't met.

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