How to do these drawers?
#31
(10-21-2019, 11:45 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: Turn some wooden pulls...............the front needs something.

I like Steve's suggestion. I'm not a big fan of the design but the right pulls would help the look in my opinion..
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#32
Pivoting Drawer...great idea!  But you will still need drawer pulls.  I prefer a pull over the mechanical push-in/pop-out.  The design is modern so two small metal pulls mounted next to each other on the top edge of each drawer would be my choice.  Second choice, contrasting wooden pulls mounted the same way.

There ya go Derek, problem solved, no more suggestions needed, start drawing.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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#33
I was looking at the site and there was this item in the buyers notes.  "For any further information, please email our Product Team (techinfo@coxandcox.co.uk) with our full product name and code."

Maybe you could email them as a prospective buyer and get the skinny on how those are hidden drawers and how they operate.
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#34
What if the drawer fronts were false fronts attached to the real drawer fronts and had bullet catch releases to spring forward acting as a handle one could slip their fingers behind?
Gary

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#35
Um, how do the drawers in picture open?
Winkgrin Or has it been PhotoShopped to remove the handles...
Raised


Maybe someone has already figured out what you're looking for...
Smirk 


After looking a little more at the picture, I was reminded of a small jewelry box I made for my wife. It had 4 drawers, and after I had finished it I noticed that when closing one drawer 1 or 2 of the others would open. This happened due to the rather tight clearances between the case and the drawers and well-waxed wooden runners. 

If you make the drawers so there's a gap between the back of the drawer and the back of the carcass you could install some type of pivoting bar at the back of the carcass that does the same thing - as one drawer is pushed in it pushes one end of the bar back as the other end pushes the other drawer open. With well-waxed bottoms/runners, pushing in on one would force the other to open easily enough to get purchase enough to pull it open the rest of the way. When closing the drawer, as the open drawer is pushed in it makes contact with the bar and pushes the other drawer back out. You would just have to get used to only closing the drawers to the point where the faces are aligned...

Just a thought, but it seems like a rather simple solution to your question. Your reaction to "mechanical" fittings could be assuaged by using wood and a dowel for a pivot. The pivot could even span between the top and bottom of the carcass - pivoting at both ends - thereby adding a bit more strength...

Two pennies from Dave.
"One should respect public opinion insofar as is necessary to avoid starvation and keep out of prison, but anything that goes beyond this is voluntary submission to an unnecessary tyrany, and is likely to interfere with happiness in all kinds of ways."
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#36
(10-23-2019, 07:43 AM)Terry W Wrote: I know it is fun to noodle about different hidden catches and so on, but I think a couple of small, but artfully discrete,  drawer pulls would add to the overall look.

Terry, that really what I have been looking for. Mechanicals are clever, but create compromises in construction, and although some of the ideas here are tempting (just because they are wonderfully creative), I would prefer to use traditional drawers with a hidden handle or pull, if this is possible. If not, then a sympathetic handle.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#37
I'd think a recessed or ring (metal) pull (maybe this or these) might work with the overall shape of the piece.

That pivoting idea suggested woud be interesting (if inefficient in space use)
Or could you have the front panel be a drop-down with drawers behind?  (sacrificing some depth and still needing a catch mechanism for the front)
Or could the front panel pivot along a horizontal access -- push at the top, allows the bottom to come out and serve as a pull?

Matt
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#38
What about carving an elliptical recess into the drawer face and using a piece set across it as a pull/handle? It would still be flush with the drawer face but functional as a pull. A 1/4” piece of ebony for contrast or jarrah to attempt camouflage. Or a small leather wrapped dowel.

Not sure I’m explaining myself well, but it s a thought nonetheless.

I like the piece actually.
-Marc

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#39
Is the chevron specific to the design or just one option?
Carolyn

Trip Blog for Twelve Countries:   [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]

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#40
Make the drawer faces to pivot inwards at the top, hinged at or just above the center, to expose the bottom edge as a pull. Add some weight to the bottom edge to keep it in the down position when not pivoted.
You may lose a little depth but not have metal runners or magnetic catches etc.

Also, idk if that or this was mentioned above but the hidden drawers in the original design might open from the sides.
Ray
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