LOML wants me to make new front door

[Wild Turkey]

She was at a builders surplus warehouse and fell in love with a stained glass insert that had been removed from a door for some reason.  Insert is 22"x 48"x1".

Door will be standard height and 48" wide using white oak.  

Question: Could I sandwich 4/4 boards to make the frame members?  

This would make it easier for me to make mortises (double "half lap"?) in the longer pieces.

What glue?  Epoxy, Titebond III, etc.?  I plan on using screws on interior side to pull it together.

One glue is fully dried, could I remove screws and insert dowels to fill screw holes?

(I have a jointer, planer, Unisaw and just scored a smoking deal on a Delta shaper and cutters 
 {stealth gloat!})

What's worked for you?

exploded view of frame

   

[jteneyck]

She was at a builders surplus warehouse and fell in love with a stained glass insert that had been removed from a door for some reason.  Insert is 22"x 48"x1".

Door will be standard height and 48" wide using white oak.  

Question: Could I sandwich 4/4 boards to make the frame members?  

This would make it easier for me to make mortises (double "half lap"?) in the longer pieces.

What glue?  Epoxy, Titebond III, etc.?  I plan on using screws on interior side to pull it together.

One glue is fully dried, could I remove screws and insert dowels to fill screw holes?

(I have a jointer, planer, Unisaw and just scored a smoking deal on a Delta shaper and cutters 
 {stealth gloat!})

What's worked for you?

exploded view of frame

Didn't you post this same topic a couple of weeks ago?  

48" is really wide for a standard 1-3/4" thick door.  I'd be inclined to go to 2-1/8 or 2-1/4", whatever works with the lockset you buy.  To your question about using half lap construction.  That's not a really good idea on frame members that wide.  The bottom rail needs to be at least 8" wide, preferably more like 10 or 11" for a door that wide.  Think about how the cross grain in joints that wide is going to fight each other as the RH changes during the year.  M&T, either standard or loose tenon, will give you the strength you need while reducing the amount of cross grain in each joint.  Also, you don't want the ends of your joints exposed to weather and half lap joints will present that situation.  M&T joints keep the joint protected in the frame members.  

Here are some specifics I would consider:

You could use solid stock or face glue 2 or 3 layers.  In either case, QS or RS stock is what you want for the frame members.  

Stiles and top rail:  5-1/2" wide, minimum  Use one tenon 2-1/2  to 3" wide and at least 2-1/2" deep.  

Bottom rail:  8" wide, minimum, preferably 11".  Use two tenons like in the top rail. 


Mid rails:  whatever you like, and use the same M&T system.   

If you don't want to chop the mortises by hand, cut them with a plunge router and edge guide or shop built jig.  It's pretty darned easy.  For a 2"+ thick door you will want tenons at least 5/8" thick.  If this still seems too daunting then use 1/2" dowels, at least 3" deep.  3 dowels in the top rail and 4 in the bottom, and whatever looks right in the mid rails. 


Epoxy.  System Three T88 is very user friendly and a very good choice.  


John

[Stwood_]

I'd suggest a 42" door, which is plenty wide for an entry door.

[fredhargis]

A door that wide is going to be heavy, beyond really heavy. You'll some high quality hinges to hang it and I'd also agree that it will need to be thicker than 1 3/4".

[Wild Turkey]

Thanks for the advice.  I need to print this out and stick it to wall so I won't forget again


Hand tools will be a problem for a while -- I should get the wires out of my thumb next week but getting strength back will take some time.

I'll look into loose tenons.  This old dog may need to learn a few new tricks. 

[jteneyck]

Here's what loose tenons look like in an 11" bottom rail.  These tenons are 5/8" by about 3" wide by about 3" deep.  I made them out of QS ash.   



You can pin loose tenons, too, just like you can with integral tenons, if that's something you want to do. With loose tenons, however, you obviously need to pin the tenon in both the stile and rail.

John

[petertay15]

Casual reader thanks jteneck for his continual, expert, and patient advice to queries in this forum. Whatever is asked, I always look to see if John has replied.
—Peter

[ToeNailer]

Casual reader thanks jteneck for his continual, expert, and patient advice to queries in this forum. Whatever is asked, I always look to see if John has replied.
—Peter

+1. on Jteneck's advice.....

Kept thinking about things to add but he kept putting them in.


As far as heavy...yes...but shouldn't matter with the appropriate hardware.  Carriage doors are made with loose tenons and can be up to 5' wide. They are going to be over 2" 2 3/4" thick stock. 

While the thicker door requires some special thought on hardware, it also makes using existing framing a question. But, if you are building a beautiful door......it wouldn't bother me to replace the framing as well. 

Good luck.

[Wild Turkey]

. . . if you are building a beautiful door......it wouldn't bother me to replace the framing as well. 

Good luck.

Don't even have floor joists yet, just the basement walls.  I'm trying to stay ahead of the curve with this! 

[Tapper]

Casual reader thanks jteneck for his continual, expert, and patient advice to queries in this forum. Whatever is asked, I always look to see if John has replied.
—Peter

Ditto! John has BTDT on all things doors, as well as many other projects, obviously. Always offers concise, detailed and sound advice.

Doug