I need some cutting help

[DaveR1]

I found what I needed

In geometry, a hexagon is a six-sided polygon or 6-gon. The total of the internal angles of any simple hexagon is 720°. Wikipedia
Area: 3√3/2 × (side)²

Perimeter: 6 x side

Number of vertices: 6

Number of edges: 6

Internal angle: 120°

I was thinking of 120° which would make it 30° outside angle.

I was putting the angle gage on the outside of the blade and not the inside which it will not fit underneath of it.

I'm curious what wasn't clear from my drawing since you said it shows exactly what you want to do. and it clearly shows the tilt angle for the blade.

[Arlin Eastman]

The first thing I did was 0 out the wixley on the table first and then put it on the blade.

On the saw blade there is an acute angle and an obtuse angle.  I think measuring the outside is the obtuse and not the acute angle.

I DO KNOW it is to be 30* but my TS will not go that low.  Maybe there is a stop in the inside of the cabinet that is not allowing it to go that low??????

[DaveR1]

The first thing I did was 0 out the wixley on the table first and then put it on the blade.

On the saw blade there is an acute angle and an obtuse angle.  I think measuring the outside is the obtuse and not the acute angle.

I DO KNOW it is to be 30* but my TS will not go that low.  Maybe there is a stop in the inside of the cabinet that is not allowing it to go that low??????

If the angle displayed in your photo is correct, your saw will go to 30° which is more vertical than you show the blade. As has been said by myself and others, the blade needs to be at 60° to the table top which is 30° OFF OF VERTICAL. 

Set the blade back up to square with the table. The angle indicator on the saw will show 0°. Crank it over until the angle indicator points at 30°. That'll be extremely close and you can fine tune it from there.

[mike4244]

I used two electronic gages

One is the Wixey WR300 and the other is the like General Tools 823 Digital Angle Finder Rule, 10-Inch (254mm) Stainless Steel Protractor in 32nd and MM Increments, Large LCD Display, Measures 360 Degrees.

I put both on * and the table saw will only go to 48*.  Do I need the gages to read 120* which will be the same as 30*?

I have it sit on the blade like this to get the degrees

Arlin, your saw should go to 45° There is a stop bolt that adjusts to 45°. You should check the blade with an engineers square or a plastic drafting square. When the blade shows 0° the pointer should be the same. Check to see if the stop bolt is at correct position. When you crank the arbor it should stop at 0° . If not adjust this bolt . Now crank the arbor to 45° , should stop there. If you can crank it to 48° then adjust the bolt. This is another bolt, two adjusting bolts. One for 0° and another for 45°. If you have a manual it will show you where the adjustment bolts are located. Often it is easier to get to  the bolts by removing the handwheels temporary .
Sometimes the pointer needs to be moved slightly. 
Make test cuts at 0° ,30° and 45°.
There is another way to produce 30° angles. Amana makes a very good router bit that is for boxes and the like. 
Amana  #49414
30° , 1-3/8" high with a 1/2" shank. If I recall I paid $30.00 about 5 years ago. Must be installed in a router table.
mike

[Cooler]

If you are going to use the wixey angle cube thing. Run the blade square to the table. Then zero the cube while it is on the blade and crank the blade over to 30.

The blade needs to be 30 degrees off vertical, not 60.

In your picture, you can crank the blade a little more upright s so it is 60° to the table or 30° off vertical.

Yeah.  He will have to flip the board over for the cuts.  I think it is easier to cut all the pieces to length first and just trim off the angle cuts.  He will have to either move the fence so it is not even with the blade, or add a board to his existing fence.  You cannot safely use the miter gage and the fence at the same time if the fence is even with the entire blade.  The fence has to end prior to the start of the cut and is only used to gage the position of the board, not to guide it.

[Arlin Eastman]

If the angle displayed in your photo is correct, your saw will go to 30° which is more vertical than you show the blade. As has been said by myself and others, the blade needs to be at 60° to the table top which is 30° OFF OF VERTICAL. 

Set the blade back up to square with the table. The angle indicator on the saw will show 0°. Crank it over until the angle indicator points at 30°. That'll be extremely close and you can fine tune it from there.

Dave

Thanks I just figured that is the point everyone is making.   I 0 it out on the table and then put it on the blade.  Making sure the blade is vertical is the right way but then I had to 0 it out to go to 30* which I did not know to do.

[Gary G™]

Arlin

Your photo appears to show a gap between the top surface of the TS and the throat plate. If so, it’s going to negatively affect the accuracy of your cuts.
There’s also lots of gap around the blade, which increases tear out.
You need a zero tolerance throat plate level to the top surface of the saw.

[Arlin Eastman]

Arlin

Your photo appears to show a gap between the top surface of the TS and the throat plate. If so, it’s going to negatively affect the accuracy of your cuts.
There’s also lots of gap around the blade, which increases tear out.
You need a zero tolerance throat plate level to the top surface of the saw.

Thanks Gary

That is a stock photo from the internet but the tilt is the same.  I do have some gap between the blade but not on that left like that.  I am wanting to make a zero clearance plate when I get the funds.

I taken the stock photo off of the web since I still do not have my own camera yet.

[Pirate]

Arlin. Surely you have a scrap of wood to make a 0 clearance insert.

[Handplanesandmore]

Can you do it on a miter saw?

Simon