Entry door install problem

[richtes]

Put a 32 x 80 Jeld wen 6 panel door between the garage and laundry room. I had an easier time with a real outside entry door.

Looks ok, pretty even gap, though wider at the bottom since the frame is @ 1/8” wider at the bottom. One laser on the hinge frame is straight and a 360 laser on the door side of the jamb is OK on both sides. The door is contacting at the top an bottom corners but a little gap by the Knob and lock.

If I had it twisted I’d expect one corner hitting before the other. I’m stumped.

Opens and closes fine. I opened the door and put the laser on the edge and seems ok. Don’t think it’s bowed by any more than 1/64”

Anything else to check?
Rich

[mstens]

Check the top and bottom hinges for looseness.

[K. L. McReynolds]

Pre hung or slab?

Check the plumb on the latch side of the door, sounds like a bowed door slab.

[mike4244]

Put a 32 x 80 Jeld wen 6 panel door between the garage and laundry room. I had an easier time with a real outside entry door.

Looks ok, pretty even gap, though wider at the bottom since the frame is @ 1/8” wider at the bottom. One laser on the hinge frame is straight and a 360 laser on the door side of the jamb is OK on both sides. The door is contacting at the top an bottom corners but a little gap by the Knob and lock.

If I had it twisted I’d expect one corner hitting before the other. I’m stumped.

Opens and closes fine. I opened the door and put the laser on the edge and seems ok. Don’t think it’s bowed by any more than 1/64”

Anything else to check?
Rich

Rich, I do not understand what you are referring to when you say "laser". As far as the gap, 1/64" isn't a problem. You can check the door slab for twist and warp with a string line. I suppose that packing the middle hinge may solve the gap problem. Personally , if 1/64" gap is the only problem than I would say your installation was perfect.

mike

[Snipe Hunter]

I'm not quite sure what the issue is either. My 1st thought is that your sill isn't 100% level. If it isn't perfectly level, start over.


Are the sides if the jamb plum?
It the brick mould flush to the sheathing?
Did you run a string in an X, corner to corner to check for any jamb twist?
Did you shim behind the hinges, latch plate and corners?

Shims should not be hammered or forced in, just snug enough where they don't slide down. If the screws pulls the jamb towards the jack studs, back out the screw and push the shim in a little more. I've never used a laser, nit sure how one would help. A string or plumb bob is a lot easier to see.

Once I'm sure the sill is level and sure I have enough gap all around the jamb to work with, I make my first attachment to the jack stud just above the sill on the hinge side. I usually just use a finish nail there and a piece of shim between my nailer and the jamb. This way, I can break away the shim in order to have enough nail exposed to easily remove it. That nail will be removed later.

Then I plumb the hinge side with long screws through the hinges, through the jamb, through the shims and into the jack studs and check the top for level. I cam make adjustmentswith the long hinge screws. Once the hinge side is plumb and the top of the jamb is level, I attach the latch side near the strike plate. I generally use a long screw either through the strike plate or fold up the weather strip and run a screw through the jamb, into the jack stud hiding the screw head behind the weather strip.

At this point, all connections to the jack plate are adjustable with the exception of that 1st nail. I do not fasten the top of the jamb to the header. Double check level, plumb and the X corner to corner. Make adjustments with the screws and adjusting the shims.

Then I open and close the door to make sure it doesn't bind and the weather strip has even contact all around the door and an even gap between the door and jamb. When everything is good, I shim near the corners between the jack stud and jamb, fold up the weather strip and shoot in the nails. The weather strip should hide the nail heads. Once it's all good, I'll shim between the hinges and nail under the weather stripmon the hinge side and shim and nail between the strike plate ant the top ant the bottom of the jamb. All of my nails will be under te weather strip.

Then I'll break away the exposed shim around that 1st nail, pull out the najl and fill the hole. Then screw the sill

Almost all exterior door installation problems stem from the sill not being level.

[richtes]

Thanks all.

We checked again and with a 6 foot level on the door and it has a bow in the middle.

My wife thought the sill comment might have been an issue since it looks off but a 2' level says the door is level and the tile isn't (the subfloor at the door was OK).

Might go get another door at HD and swap doors.

Rich

[fixtureman]

If the door has a bow in it contact Jeld Wen and they should send someone out to verify and repair it.  I had a problem with a Jeld Wen window and they were out real quick

[Snipe Hunter]

A side note...

The garage is a fire envelope. The door between it and any living space should be a fire rated door with self closing hinges.

[fixtureman]

A side note...

The garage is a fire envelope. The door between it and any living space should be a fire rated door with self closing hinges.

Is that code where you live.

[jteneyck]

Snipe, that's a great write up.  But why do you start with a nail near the bottom on the hinge side?  What does it do for you?  

John