Table saw dust collection
#11
Any suggestions for an overarm, blade-positioned, dust collector for a table saw?

Thanks,

T.
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#12
I've tried a couple. The first was a Badger Pond shop built model and it was actually not bad, but I didn't want to mount it to the ceiling. After that I bought a Shark Gaurd (it's my first recommendation) and I liked it best of the ones I've had. But after I bought the Shark I came across a good buy on an Excalibur here in the S&S section and picked it up. This is the original one and while it works good it just wasn't quite as handy as the Shark. I was planning on putting the Shark back on my saw, but then wound up selling it ( a Unisaw, and I moved to a Sawstop) and let the Shark go with the Uni. So On my Sawstop I still have the Excalibur, but I did upgrade the basket to a Shark Gaurd made for it. My Basket is one of the last Lee did before he passed away. Regardless, the shark is quite handy, does an excellent job of dust collection, and likely the less expensive of the choices you have. The Excalibur design was changed to make it a little easier to use (the arm swings out of the way) and was then sold to SS, and all they did was change the color.

PS: forgot that one, I see Simon mentioned the SS guard. Mine was never mounted on my saw, and I sold it to someone who wanted it for their Ridgid saw. It might be effective (no idea), but I wouldn't want something with a 1.5" port.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#13
No other systems in the market for cabinet saws (rip cuts) are as effective and userfriendly as the sawstop dust collection blade guard as it leaves little space between the wood and the source of suction. Can you fabricate a similar one for your saw using its guard (which isn't cheap)? I don't like the heavy overarm option because you have to keep moving it when you change the fence for different widths of cuts.

Simon
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#14
I would recommend a shark guard.
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#15
Another for Shark Guard.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#16
In case it's not obvious, just get a Shark Guard.

I wish I hadn't waited as long as I did to get mine.  I would have been happier a lot sooner if I had.
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#17
(01-03-2020, 08:47 AM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: In case it's not obvious, just get a Shark Guard.

I wish I hadn't waited as long as I did to get mine.  I would have been happier a lot sooner if I had.

Could those of you with Shark Guards, share how you manage your dust connection to the guard?
_____
Darrell
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#18
(01-03-2020, 01:39 PM)Darrell D. Wrote: Could those of you with Shark Guards, share how you manage your dust connection to the guard?

Here's how I had mine hooked up, the flex allowed me to lift it up and curl the hose/hood around the gate you see on the left. This is a far cry easier than moving the arm of my early model Excalibur.



   
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#19
My 4" DC hose drops down from overhead main line and into a 4" to 2.25" tapered funnel adapter that connects directly to the shark guard.
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#20
I have one of the early versions of the shark guard. Only remember a 2 1/2” dust port option. It works well with the exception of trimming off a 1/16” or so off the edge of a board. The open side of the cut ejects sawdust sideways, across the saw. Not sure if the newer versions or a larger port makes a difference with the issue.

I switch my 2 1/2” hose between my table saw and miter saw. So, I use a squeeze clamp for quick changes.

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John
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