Help! I HATE painting!
#11
I love making stuff, but I my least favorite thing is finishing my work. Putting poly over walnut for example is fine, and easy. But I do hate painting. My wife ordered a new table to go between two recliners we have, and wanted it painted with a light beige color to match the kitchen cabinets. It's made from poplar. So I'm finishing up here in a couple of days and will have to move on to painting. My question is, given it will take some wear and tear, I assume poly over the paint would be best? The top is only 16" x 18" so a pretty small table. Which is easier, spray straight from a can or brush? I'd like somewhat of a semi gloss / glossy look.
Any advice appreciated!
Paul
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
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#12
SW's WB primer and  ProClassic paint will give a very nice finish.  Same for BM's Advance paint.  Both go on great with a brush or foam roller if you add a couple % each of water and BM's Extender.  Both are very durable after curing for a couple of weeks, so I wouldn't topcoat either with anything more.  

If you would rather use a clear topcoat, I would start with GF's Milk Paint for your base color and then topcoat it with GF's High Performance.  Both can be applied with a brush.  

John
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#13
For a painted table that might have wet things placed on it, a glass topper can be a lifesaver.
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#14
I have used poly on top of an off-white paint, and it gave an amber cast to the color.  If you choose to do poly on top of paint, suggest testing a sample first so that you will have an idea of the final look.

Edited to add: I agree with John about the possibility of milk paint. I have done a few pieces in milk paint, top-coated with rattle-can lacquer. I liked the results. I haven't used a prepared milk paint before, I've only used the powder base that was mixed with water at the time of use.
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#15
Use a foam brush.
Carolyn

Trip Blog for Twelve Countries:   [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]

"It's good to know, but it's better to understand."  Auze Jackson
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#16
Thanks guys. I've never used milk paint before and don't know what it looks like after, but I'm going to check it out.
Paul
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
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#17
(01-19-2020, 01:29 PM)plharrison Wrote: Thanks guys. I've never used milk paint before and don't know what it looks like after, but I'm going to check it out.
Paul

GF's Milk Paint is really a WB acrylic.  It dries flat, so maybe that's why they call it milk paint; I don't know but it's nothing like genuine milk paint.  It goes on great with a foam brush.  You definitely will want to topcoat it as it's easily scratched.  I did the black on this cabinet with GF's Milk Paint + High Performance Poly.  I applied the milk paint with a foam brush, then sprayed the HP Poly.  

[Image: q1cw8S0BcSKWDtivAbQB57n-BXO6myW5_5TUT5qd...70-h626-no]


John
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#18
(01-19-2020, 05:19 PM)jteneyck Wrote: GF's Milk Paint is really a WB acrylic.  It dries flat, so maybe that's why they call it milk paint; I don't know but it's nothing like genuine milk paint.  It goes on great with a foam brush.  You definitely will want to topcoat it as it's easily scratched.  I did the black on this cabinet with GF's Milk Paint + High Performance Poly.  I applied the milk paint with a foam brush, then sprayed the HP Poly.  

[Image: q1cw8S0BcSKWDtivAbQB57n-BXO6myW5_5TUT5qd...70-h626-no]


John

Nice!!
"Some glue, some brads while the glue dries, and that's not going anywhere!"
Norm
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#19
At his recommendation, I have used John's suggestion of GF's Milk Paint for base color and then topcoat with GF's High Performance for some bedroom furniture and it turned out great.  I sprayed both paint and finish on but have brushed both products on and that looks great, too.  I would allow time to cure - I would say at least a week before use.  I found out the hard way that the dry finish is still quite delicate until it cures for a few days. 
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#20
My best paint finish on a furniture project made from hard maple included 2 coats BIN shellac primer, 2 coats BM Advance, and top coated with GF’s High Performance. Light sanding inbetween each topcoat with lighter grit as I progressed. I do think top coating with a clear gives a bit more silky smoothness overall. Maybe my imagination and more likely attributed to aiming for my best finish I was capable of doing. Strangely, my finishing can often mimic how much I really care about whatever project I’m finishing.


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