01-27-2020, 07:29 PM (This post was last modified: 01-27-2020, 07:33 PM by mound.)
A project coming up involves making a long rectangular case - 60" long, 14" deep and 12" high.
The case will be made from MDF panels (or BB ply, haven't decided yet but leaning toward MDF) each panel having 3/4" of solid walnut edge banding around their perimeter, the entirety of which (substrate and hardwood edging) is to be veneered with 1/16" quarter sawn walnut veneer.
So far that's straightforward.
The case though, all 6 sides, will be mitered together with a "waterfall" effect of the grain. Actually, only 5 sides.. the bottom of the case will be rabbeted in since that corner transition to the underside isn't visible.
I plan to use dominos along all mitered joints and I plan to use my tracksaw to cut all of those miters.
I'm simply looking for tips/pitfalls you might envision me running into since I've never actually done this before!
(01-27-2020, 07:29 PM)mound Wrote: A project coming up involves making a long rectangular case - 60" long, 14" deep and 12" high.
The case will be made from MDF panels (or BB ply, haven't decided yet but leaning toward MDF) each panel having 3/4" of solid walnut edge banding around their perimeter, the entirety of which (substrate and hardwood edging) is to be veneered with 1/16" quarter sawn walnut veneer.
So far that's straightforward.
The case though, all 6 sides, will be mitered together with a "waterfall" effect of the grain. Actually, only 5 sides.. the bottom of the case will be rabbeted in since that corner transition to the underside isn't visible.
I plan to use dominos along all mitered joints and I plan to use my tracksaw to cut all of those miters.
I'm simply looking for tips/pitfalls you might envision me running into since I've never actually done this before!
Mound, even with an excellent set up, it is nearly impossible to rip long, accurate Miters at the Saw.
I typically rip most of the waste away at the Saw, then finish the joints at the router table using a 45 degree chamfer bit. The bit will ensure that the joints are 45 degrees as can never be done with the Saw.
You are planning to make panels edged with hardwood, veneer them, and then cut miters and join them?
Why not just glue them together with strong sidegrain butt joints, then veneer afterwards? It will be much easier, just as strong, and look exactly the same.
(01-27-2020, 07:29 PM)mound Wrote: A project coming up involves making a long rectangular case - 60" long, 14" deep and 12" high.
The case will be made from MDF panels (or BB ply, haven't decided yet but leaning toward MDF) each panel having 3/4" of solid walnut edge banding around their perimeter, the entirety of which (substrate and hardwood edging) is to be veneered with 1/16" quarter sawn walnut veneer.
So far that's straightforward.
The case though, all 6 sides, will be mitered together with a "waterfall" effect of the grain. Actually, only 5 sides.. the bottom of the case will be rabbeted in since that corner transition to the underside isn't visible.
I plan to use dominos along all mitered joints and I plan to use my tracksaw to cut all of those miters.
I'm simply looking for tips/pitfalls you might envision me running into since I've never actually done this before!
Why miter the joints ? I agree with Alan and if you want to miter the joints then your stock has to be flat and straight. I have never used a track saw but I think you will have problems cutting good miters with it. Tough enough with a table saw. MDF is a good idea for veneered boxes.
mike
(01-27-2020, 09:11 PM)Alan S Wrote: You are planning to make panels edged with hardwood, veneer them, and then cut miters and join them?
Why not just glue them together with strong sidegrain butt joints, then veneer afterwards? It will be much easier, just as strong, and look exactly the same.
yah I have considered just that and may still go that way. The "problem" I have with that approach is two-fold. First, at each corner there will be 1/16" thick end-grain rather than the tight miter. If that really matters or not in the grand scheme of things I'm sure is debatable! Also then there's the question of how to apply the veneer to an assembled case.
(01-28-2020, 08:19 AM)mound Wrote: yah I have considered just that and may still go that way. The "problem" I have with that approach is two-fold. First, at each corner there will be 1/16" thick end-grain rather than the tight miter. If that really matters or not in the grand scheme of things I'm sure is debatable! Also then there's the question of how to apply the veneer to an assembled case.
Mitering the edging and applying it after assembly should cover the end grain. I don't see a problem applying to an assembled case, but I might do the field surfaces before assembly.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
(01-28-2020, 08:25 AM)fredhargis Wrote: Mitering the edging and applying it after assembly should cover the end grain. I don't see a problem applying to an assembled case, but I might do the field surfaces before assembly.
then you have a seam in the veneer and obvious "edging".. no?
Then do the field after assembly covering the edging edge. You could do the field with PSA veneer, and if you want to insure it will never seperate from the substrate apply some contact cement to the substrate first....the bond when you do this is absolutely unbelievable. I first read about this in a book on cabinet refacing.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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