Ye olde MM16 power switch post [NEW QUESTION ADDED]
#11
  
My 2004 Minimax MM16 stopped working yesterday. I need to confirm that it is the startup switch, and not the door interlock. I confirmed 220V AC at the switch.

Assuming it's the switch, I have a couple of questions. One, I replaced the switch once already (before the SCM days). A Minimax rep posted a very helpful replacement procedure on the Minimax Yahoo user group. It saved a lot of guessing and hassle. That group is no more and I don't seem to have a copy of the steps. Does anyone know or remember what order to disconnect, remove etc? There is definitely a smart way.

Two, the switch is AEG 910-201-211. I bought my last one from Minimax. I've had poor experience with SCM and I'd rather buy it somewhere else. Any recommendations? I see a huge amount of online pricing variations, which makes me suspicious.

Thanks. I'll check the interlocks tonight.

[EDIT] Does anyone know the spec for the door and brake microswitches (interlocks) in case that's the problem?
Best,
Aram, defying laws of geometry

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


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#12
  Re: Ye olde MM16 power switch post [NEW QUESTION ADDED] by Aram (My 2004 Minimax MM16...)
I've had switch problems myself a couple of times but fortunately a tap or two with the back of a screwdriver and a blast of air has got me going again. I've bookmarked the following for the day I'm not so lucky, hope it helps.

http://www.solowoodworker.com/mm/switch.html
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#13
  Re: Ye olde MM16 power switch post [NEW QUESTION ADDED] by Aram (My 2004 Minimax MM16...)
(02-11-2020, 01:03 PM)Aram Wrote: My 2004 Minimax MM16 stopped working yesterday. I need to confirm that it is the startup switch, and not the door interlock. I confirmed 220V AC at the switch.

Assuming it's the switch, I have a couple of questions. One, I replaced the switch once already (before the SCM days). A Minimax rep posted a very helpful replacement procedure on the Minimax Yahoo user group. It saved a lot of guessing and hassle. That group is no more and I don't seem to have a copy of the steps. Does anyone know or remember what order to disconnect, remove etc? There is definitely a smart way.

Two, the switch is AEG 910-201-211. I bought my last one from Minimax. I've had poor experience with SCM and I'd rather buy it somewhere else. Any recommendations? I see a huge amount of online pricing variations, which makes me suspicious.

Thanks. I'll check the interlocks tonight.

That looks like the same starter switch I had to replace for a too small one on my MM FS-35 J/P.  There's not much to it.  Take out the old, connect the wires to the same terminals on the new one.  Done.  I picked someone that looked like a real business online selling it for the lowest price, around $75 IIRC.  Turned out fine.


John
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#14
  Re: Ye olde MM16 power switch post [NEW QUESTION ADDED] by Aram (My 2004 Minimax MM16...)
Aram, that switch may have changed part numbers. I found this:"The old switch has AEG Part Nbr 910-201-211 and says "16..20A" and the dial was set at 20A.The new switch has AEG P/N 910-201-212 and says "20..25A" over at SMC (buried down in this thread). I can't help...Charlie Plesums detailed some stuff on the MM switch at his website, but it was on an MM24 and his switch is different than ours.  I'm folowing with interest since I have the same saw. I didn't realize that SCM had shutdown the MM site.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#15
  Re: RE: Ye olde MM16 power switch post by fredhargis (Aram, that switch ma...)
(02-11-2020, 01:22 PM)fredhargis Wrote: Aram, that switch may have changed part numbers. I found this:"The old switch has AEG Part Nbr 910-201-211 and says "16..20A" and the dial was set at 20A.The new switch has AEG P/N 910-201-212 and says "20..25A" over at SMC (buried down in this thread). I can't help...Charlie Plesums detailed some stuff on the MM switch at his website, but it was on an MM24 and his switch is different than ours.  I'm folowing with interest since I have the same saw. I didn't realize that SCM had shutdown the MM site.

The smart thing to do is to look at the motor for the FLA (Full Load Amps).  My FS-35 pulls something like 16.8 amps but had a 10-15 amp. switch on it, set at 15 amps.  Of course it tripped out every time I put much load on it.  I replaced it with one with the 16 - 20 amp rating, set it at 17, and all is well.  

John
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#16
  Re: Ye olde MM16 power switch post [NEW QUESTION ADDED] by Aram (My 2004 Minimax MM16...)
My 16 is a 2005-6, I think. It came factory damaged, dealer rebuilt.
Knock on wood, I've never had a switch problem.
If I ever have major problems procuring a switch if mine gives trouble, I'll probably be looking at installing a 220V high amp wall switch, like I did on my Jet 6x89 sander.
Steve





 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020

 When I use the toilet it smells just like fresh brewed coffee!
fredp 02/13/2020







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#17
  Re: RE: Ye olde MM16 power switch post by Stwood_ (My 16 is a 2005-6, I...)
(02-11-2020, 04:03 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: My 16 is a 2005-6, I think. It came factory damaged, dealer rebuilt.
Knock on wood, I've never had a switch problem.
If I ever have major problems procuring a switch if mine gives trouble, I'll probably be looking at installing a 220V high amp wall switch, like I did on my Jet 6x89 sander.

That won't give you any protection unless the breaker is appropriately sized.  The motor on my FS-35 has no thermal overload protection; it's provided by the switch.  I have the machine plugged into a 30 amp circuit shared with my 5 hp bandsaw so it needs that switch to provide protection.  

John
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#18
  Re: RE: Ye olde MM16 power switch post by jteneyck ([quote='Stwood_' pid...)
(02-11-2020, 04:43 PM)jteneyck Wrote: That won't give you any protection unless the breaker is appropriately sized.  The motor on my FS-35 has no thermal overload protection; it's provided by the switch.  I have the machine plugged into a 30 amp circuit shared with my 5 hp bandsaw so it needs that switch to provide protection.  

John

 I have a 220 20amp breaker on that run. Used for the bandsaw and my 6x89 sander.
It's a 3.4? 3.6? hp (hafta look again) motor. It should break a 20 amp breaker.
Steve





 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020

 When I use the toilet it smells just like fresh brewed coffee!
fredp 02/13/2020







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#19
  Re: Ye olde MM16 power switch post [NEW QUESTION ADDED] by Aram (My 2004 Minimax MM16...)
It might trip a 20 amp if really pushed, but i ran mine (they are 3.6 HP) on a 20 amp for a few years before and never tripped it. They are rated for a 30 amp breaker (the older ones like ours, the newer ones have a 4.8 HP motor).
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#20
  Re: Ye olde MM16 power switch post [NEW QUESTION ADDED] by Aram (My 2004 Minimax MM16...)
I know for furnaces I have installed I have used switches with a fuse in them to protect the machinery 

Not sure if you can find something like this for your application but thought I would toss it out there as it might be easier to find than 
an exact replacement for a specific machine




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