Stanley #50
#11
I have had this #50 for a long time. It was missing the depth stop so I got one from St James Bay tools.  Without the depth stop, it guts a groove 3/16" thick. With the depth stop, it cuts a groove just short of 1/4". This becomes frustrating when I want a 1/4" groove. I suspect that this depth stop may be too thick. Can some one measure the thickness of their #50 depth stop and let me know what it is. 

And I just so happened to be cutting some grooves in poplar tonight for a rear panel of a cherry buffet. 

   

   
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#12
Is that the stop you are using in the picture?  If so, that is the beading fence, not a depth stop.

Link to manual

Item shown is "G" in diagram in manual.

You are looking for "F"
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#13
(02-18-2020, 09:39 AM)Rob Young Wrote: Is that the stop you are using in the picture?  If so, that is the beading fence, not a depth stop.

Link to manual

Item shown is "G" in diagram in manual.

You are looking for "F"

Can't open the link at work, but will check it out later tonight. Dang, here I thought I was using a depth stop, but what you state makes sense. Now to look for a depth stop.
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#14
And to clarify, the beading stop tucks under the quirk cutter - the flat part - on a beading cutter, so that the bead is flush with the edge of the board.  In theory, anyhow.
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#15
Can anyone post a picture of a proper depth stop? Are they the same as the 45/55 depth stops as those seem to pop up in searches.
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#16
Thumbs Down 
Patrick Leach's discussion states that the No. 50 has its own depth stop - and two different versions, depending on year of production!  Scroll down at this link: Thank you, Patrick Leach!
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#17
(02-18-2020, 01:26 PM)Bill_Houghton Wrote: Patrick Leach's discussion states that the No. 50 has its own depth stop - and two different versions, depending on year of production!  Scroll down at this link: Thank you, Patrick Leach!

Thanks,

I had skimmed through that before, but missed where they were different. I do have the chip deflector and the cutter securing bolt, but never really had the need to use them. Not sure what he is taking about with the additional depth stop provision on the sliding section. Mine doesn't have that so I am guessing that mine is pre 1910.
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#18
(02-18-2020, 01:26 PM)Bill_Houghton Wrote: Patrick Leach's discussion states that the No. 50 has its own depth stop - and two different versions, depending on year of production!  Scroll down at this link: Thank you, Patrick Leach!

Yepper. Two different ones and not always interchangeable.

Had a friend with a #50 of different vintage than mine (his newer, mine older) and we confirmed they are not compatible. He fabricated a depthstop for his. Drill-rod, little bit of steel, work on the drillpress and a dab of JB Weld. So far as I know it is still functioning. He has since moved to Idaho.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#19
(02-18-2020, 01:49 PM)Scoony Wrote: Not sure what he is taking about with the additional depth stop provision on the sliding section. Mine doesn't have that so I am guessing that mine is pre 1910.

Where did you put the beading stop?  I don't see, from your pictures, anywhere on the right side of the main body of the plane, to put a depth stop.  What am I missing?  I'm confused.
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#20
(02-18-2020, 02:07 PM)Bill_Houghton Wrote: Where did you put the beading stop?  I don't see, from your pictures, anywhere on the right side of the main body of the plane, to put a depth stop.  What am I missing?  I'm confused.

Where that little wing nut is located. The spot where the chip deflector would go. Always wondered why it had that little cut out and the rabbet along the edge. I now realize that that beading stop goes on the left side. I will have to look when I get home to see if mine has that provision for the beading stop. Didn't believe it did, but I may be wrong.
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