New door wont stay shut
#25
Thanks rfd8w5. The hinges sit flush and the screws also. I didnt give a harder look at the weather stripping yet,,but it is a folded type, like an arc you can peel open and that's where the screws are for the jamb. I get the picture frame reference and I probably have that going on...especially after shimming the hinges. I can now see gaps and no gaps. Luckily the door isnt hitting the frame anywhere. I was hoping that the factory assembled it the way it needs to be. I'll try adjusting it more but when the guy comes back to finish the sheetrock I will show him what's going on.
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#26
(02-23-2020, 03:20 PM)Marc Wrote: Lol  
I got the latch pretty good so I can skip the lipstick.

Now the only problem I see now is that the door sits a bit proud of the jamb on the lock/latch side.  It was like that before but the latch did not line up. Now the latch works  but i still have to push the door to make the deadbolt work.  The shims did not affect that.

Common problem, usually caused by the jamb not in the same plane as the wall. If the trim is off the jambs ,place a straight edge across the jamb. Theorectically the wall and jamb should be in the plane. Try this at the top  and as low as possible. Make sure the hinge side of the jamb is within reason for plumb and flush with the wall. Rarely will it be perfect. Now check the lock side the same way. If the jamb is screwed to frame your in luck. Leave the hinge side alone if it is okay. The lock side may have to come towards you. Look for shims, drive a nail thru the jamb under the shims only 
as deep as the framing. This keeps the shims from falling out. Screws will work too but nails hide easier.
Hold a scrap of wood against the jamb and tap it towards you til the bottom of the door is against the jamb. Nail or screw the bottom, do not go in the same hole. Repeat at the top. The door should hit the jamb now. Install the rest of the fasteners.
If your door is already trimmed, repeat as above but you may have to pop the lock side trim. Often you do not have to touch the trim.
If someone describes another way that takes one second, don't do it. Slamming the door will not work in the long run. 
mike
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#27
(02-22-2020, 02:11 PM)Marc Wrote: I had a new exterior door installed about 2 weeks ago. It's a fiberglass door with leaded glass and it came with the jamb.  I had a carpenter with "45 years" experience install it.  When he was finished he said give the weather stripping time to compress,,,so I may have to push the door to close it. That wasnt working. I had to use the deadbolt to shut the door.
 After looking at it myself,,I doubled lthe strike plate. That worked for a day. Then I noticed the latch bolt wasnt extending out all the way when closed so it would pop open.  I somehow managed to get that to work.
  Today I had a refrigerator delivery and we had to unscrew the hinges off the jamb. The pins wouldnt come out.   I am now back to square one. The door wont stay latched closed and we have to use the deadbolt.  Even if I lean real hard on the door the latch wont go into the hole.....it seems.
  I'm about to post an ad locally asking for an expert  door repair/installer to look at it. Before I do that,,is there anything i can try?

I just now went to look and the latch bolt is hitting the lower edge of the strike plate.

It sounds like he had one year experience which he repeated 45 times.  Or maybe 6 months of experience which he repeated 90 times.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#28
Sorry,,went back to work..I'll try working in it when I can but may leave it for someone else
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