Updated - Downspout in ground drain pipe size and material question
#21
I would run 4."  I would also make separate provision for a couple of cleanouts if the downspout connection is not easily removed to do that.  Do not use 90 bends.
Blackhat

Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories. 


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#22
(03-05-2020, 08:51 PM)chrisntam Wrote: Dallas has ground movement, settlement when the clay soil is dry, heaving when wet.  Perhaps a bit of flexibility would be good.  A few years ago we had our pool redone, they put in 4" sdr pipe at our house, it is under travertine tile deck.

Does the size (3") look ok?


            Yeah the soil in DFW is a royal pain to work with. On the Dallas side it's primarily clay with some topsoil. On the Fort Worth side its solid rock with hard as rock clay and no topsoil. I am in the freak area by a lake where it's all sand and PVC pipes tend to float up out of the ground over time. 

                They were putting in new powerlines in my parents area and they kept breaking off the drill in the rock and ended up jack hammering from the street to the back of the lot and were able to drill across the back but still required several pits to be dug. One of the nuisances of having utilities in the ground.

    
         In your case I think 3" would be good but if you are digging a trench already 4" pipe isn't that much more and you won't have to worry about it. Never heard anyone complain a drain pipe was too big... 

             I need to do the same to our house but the spouts on the front and side need to wrap around to the back as that's the down hill ish... Problem is the sewer pipe is in the way as well as tree roots and then I have to run the pipe about 200' around trees from the house to a good place for it to daylight to a pop up. It would actually be easier and cheaper for me to run a smaller pipe a different direction and pump the water from a sump. There is no storm water management in our small city and I also have to deal with the water from the street running down the driveway and into the garage when it rains heavily. TIP never live in a city cause you get nothing for your taxes other than a stupid Library.
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#23
(03-05-2020, 11:08 PM)blackhat Wrote: I would run 4."  I would also make separate provision for a couple of cleanouts if the downspout connection is not easily removed to do that.  Do not use 90 bends.

I have to use 90s at the base of each downspout (from vertical to horizontal).   I assume you mean on the horizontal portion...
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#24
(03-06-2020, 09:54 AM)chrisntam Wrote: I have to use 90s at the base of each downspout (from vertical to horizontal).   I assume you mean on the horizontal portion...


Street 90's or 2-45's in order to soften the radius and improve flow.
Mark

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#25
I use s40 with wide sweep 90s and clean outs above the 90s. Of course we get a LOT of rain here!
VH07V  
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#26
If you put mesh on the end you will have to make sure there is no way for leaves to go down the drain or you will have problems
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#27
I appreciate all the advice. At your urging, I've decided to go with 4" drainage pipe, but not schedule 40, which I think that is overkill and the thinner wall pipe will take minor soil movement better.

Would like some input on where and how the pipe will terminate. I suppose I should have figured that out first....

Attached pics are where I would like the end of the piping to go, but I'm open to ideas on how to terminate the end of the run. The curb is broken, I was thinking about leaving the end of the pipe back about 6 to 9 inches, letting the water flow out over some rocks to the concrete part of the alley.

Other ideas? I'm a little concerned that due to the diameter of the pipe, the end will be lower that it should be to end where I want it to. Other ideas?

As always, your input is greatly appreciated!

chris.


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#28
(03-06-2020, 06:16 PM)Turner52 Wrote: If you put mesh on the end you will have to make sure there is no way for leaves to go down the drain or you will have problems

I'll have screens where the downspouts enter the drain system.
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#29
You can have it dump out that broken part of the curb or you can put a 90 short of the curb and install a pop up drain. When it rains the water will push it open. Then surround the valve with gravel over a layer of geo textile to keep the gravel from sinking into the dirt.
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#30
(03-06-2020, 10:55 PM)Robert Adams Wrote: You can have it dump out that broken part of the curb or you can put a 90 short of the curb and install a pop up drain. When it rains the water will push it open. Then surround the valve with gravel over a layer of geo textile to keep the gravel from sinking into the dirt.

That may be the answer.  I assume the pop up part is at ground level and the pipe tie in depth is restricted to where the 90 ends up at in the ground?


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