Poll: Preferred installation
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Engineered HW floor install?
#11
  
Between laminate and engineered hardwood in an entryway/hall (about 110 ft2).  I'm pushing for the wood.  Wife is concerned about wear.  Hear good things about Shaw's Epic finish.

Anyhow...what is the consensus ( Laugh )about installation technique?  Will be on OSB.  Above grade.

I can either rent a nailer/stapler or buy and resell for not much loss if need be, so that is not a barrier to the best installation if need be.
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#12
  Re: Engineered HW floor install? by JosephP (Between laminate and...)
The Shaw Epic has a fairly thick wear layer. It's a nice floor. I wouldn't worry about wear. You'll probably never have to sand and refinish it but if you did, you should get at least 2 sand and finishes, probably 3. So wear wouldn't be my concern. What I do like about the Shaws Epic is that it's pretty thick so it feels like hardwood and takes nails well. I prefer nails (cleats) for hardwoods to help eliminate squeaks. But staples for multi layer ply and MDF core flooring. They go in easy and won't pull through like a cleat would.

What I don't like about engineered floors is the grain. It is a shaved plywood surface so it won't look like sawn and sanded hardwood. It will have a plywood type grain. I think it's most noticeable on open pore wood like oak. Les so on tighter grains like cherry or maple. But that's just a pet peeve of mine. I can easily tell the difference between hardwood oak and engineered oak flooring. If you shop around, you can find comparable pricing on solid wood flooring.

If you decide to buy a nailer, I can tell you the Harbor Freight Banks nailer (cleats and staples) works pretty well. I installed 900 sq ft without a hickup. But I used DeWalt cleats not the HF ones.
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#13
  Re: Engineered HW floor install? by JosephP (Between laminate and...)
Thanks Neil!

I think we are leaning towards maple or hickory, so veneered grain patterns are less obvious than oak.  I haven't seen enough samples to be able to figure it out....but even veneered wood can look sawn if they slice instead of rotary peeling.  You probably already know...but here is an explanation of the differences.  http://www.hooddistribution.com/veneer-cuts/  Both are pretty cool to watch, if you ever have opportunity.  rotary mills look like they have a giant roll of paper towels being unrolled.  Slice is more like pulling pieces of paper off of a stack (except the stack is vertical rather than laying flat).  VERY sharp knives either way.  Got to visit a sharpening room once...the weight of a piece of paper going down on the blade was enough to cut it...didn't even need to push down.

I did find a Somerset engineered product that has a sawn top layer.  They have a 50 year wear warranty as well.

Well, that was a little stray from topic...but I appreciate the input about kind of flooring!
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#14
  Re: Engineered HW floor install? by JosephP (Between laminate and...)
Regarding nailer:

HF is $150 - so $120 after 20% off.

I can get a Bostich at Menards for $200.  11% rebate so $178.

I gotta think that is being sold used "like new" is worth $140ish.  I can't imagine the HF being worth $50 "like new" used???

If I was going to keep it, might be worth doing the HF one...but if I just want to basically "rent" it (buy and resell), I'm guessing the resale value of the Bostich will pay for itself.  I will keep my eyes open for a used one locally.  Shipping has gotta be killer...  (maybe not...just looked - can get a refurb Bostich on EBay for $140 shipped...)
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#15
  Re: Engineered HW floor install? by JosephP (Between laminate and...)
I bought the HF one for $99 with the coupon . Was $120. Went up $30?? in 6 months. Tariff, Virus??

Back to floating, vs glue vs. nail/staples.

Glue is slow. Nails /staples is fast.
Removing glued flooring is slow, removing nails is faster, removing staples is even faster.

If there are doorways off the entry hall, and depending on how they transition from one room to the other, it might affect my decision between floating and glued.
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#16
  Re: Engineered HW floor install? by JosephP (Between laminate and...)
Doors/transitions:
Exterior door at end (perpendicular to lay of floor)
Exterior door parallel to floor
Door/transition to laundry room (currently linoleum - some day tile). Parallel.
2 transitions to carpet. Parallel.
Dead ends into tile kitchen. Perpendicular.
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#17
  Re: Engineered HW floor install? by JosephP (Between laminate and...)
My issues with "floating" is aesthetics. Need something to cover the gap at doorways. Nailed or glued you can but it up to a marble threshold, looks cleaner.
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#18
  Re: Engineered HW floor install? by JosephP (Between laminate and...)
Whatever you do, don't glue. Staples or floating. For floating, I've never had a problem with the look of a rabbetted threshold to cover the edges of the floating floor to whatever transition you need to make.
Janus was a disaster, coming or going -   K. L, McReynolds 07/01/2015
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#19
  Re: Engineered HW floor install? by JosephP (Between laminate and...)
Will put the new in tomorrow.  We went with the Shaw "Bennington maple" Epic Plus engineered hardwood.

Nailer rental at Menards is only $20 for 4 hours plus $2 per additional hour (only for hours they are open...which are shortened because of coronavirus).

Old parquet oak engineered floor was glued down.  Boys and I tore that up tonight.  The 10 year hold tore into it and really enjoyed it - probably took out 30 sqft of the 110 sqft floor.  The 12 year old hit himself with the hammer a couple of times and did not (enjoy it or make much contribution...).  Hopefully they'll both enjoy installing it.

Got a little scraping to do before installation starts.

   
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#20
  Re: Engineered HW floor install? by JosephP (Between laminate and...)
   
Finished installing the new.

Took longer than I expected, but what doesn't?!

I had to pull up one or two boards to fix a mistake.  I'll say this:  Taking off the old glued floor wasn't easy...but I think I'd rather do that than taking up this one with staples!
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