Froe Sharpness
#9
Does a froe need to sharp?
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#10
Sharp, no, a decent bevel edge, yes.
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Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#11
I only rived enough for a few chairs, but from my experience, a blunt edge tends to bounce off, where a sharp edge bites in and starts the split. Not anywhere near scary sharp, just a basic simple ground edge. I used an angle grinder on mine to get a basic edge.
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#12
Using my froe a lot I first tried to sharpen it to cutting edge like a knife and found it more cut the wood then split it along the natural grain. 

So I filed it down and just have about 1/8 of the edge like a butter knife and then it goes out like a U shape.  So imagine a tight V with a blunt U behind it and now splits it along the grain very well.
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#13
You might search the forum for another thread on this subject. I recall a quasi-debate a few years ago on the same subject. I think the consensus was it needs to be sharp enough to bite into the wood, but the bevel needs to be convex to split the fibers and not cut through them. My experience is that a dull edge makes it difficult to start splitting the log.
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Allan Hill
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#14
(03-16-2020, 07:52 AM)AHill Wrote: You might search the forum for another thread on this subject.  I recall a quasi-debate a few years ago on the same subject.  I think the consensus was it needs to be sharp enough to bite into the wood, but the bevel needs to be convex to split the fibers and not cut through them.  My experience is that a dull edge makes it difficult to start splitting the log.

That is what I was trying to say.
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#15
Thanks, guys for the replies. Sharp but leave the wedge.
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#16
(03-17-2020, 01:58 PM)T Square Wrote: Thanks, guys for the replies. Sharp but leave the wedge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WxchY0Atok
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