Got any tips on making a long mitered spline?
#11
Hi,
 #1 daughter wants me to make the attached dresser.  It ain't my style but hey, it is hers.  I'll be using cherry and I'm thinking of joining the carcass with miters.  However, I would like to reinforce them with miters  (I might stop the miters short of the front so I need to attach a face frame but that's still TBD).

My Unisaw is right-tilt but my table can't accommodate the required 59" width I need so I'm not sure how I can cut the spline.  I guess I could rig up something with my router/router table but that might be unwieldy.

2 Questions:

1) Would you go with a mitered spline?  (I could cut DTs to join the carcass, but I don' think that's in keeping with the style.)  If not a mitered spline, how would you connect the sides?

2) If a mitered spline is the way to go, how would you cut it???

Thanks!

(i'll also check youtube to see how others cut large mitered splines).


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#12
Nice looking contemporary piece - not my style either but I do like the lines. I know it might be pure heresy to some around here, but since they won't show have you thought about biscuits? Adds some strength and pretty easy with a mitered joint.

Doug
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#13
If you have a biscuit joiner, that would be my first choice. Perfect for that application.
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#14
I'd say it would be safest to make a 45 deg jig for the TS. I made mitered joints for a small box I made, but only had to make 45 deg cuts in the legs and not the sides so i didn't need a jig.

You could also consider using a lock miter router bit in lieu of splines.
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#15
(03-26-2020, 12:20 PM)SteveS Wrote: I'd say it would be safest to make a 45 deg jig for the TS.

+1
Make a sled say......4' wide. Nothing fancy, just something simple
Steve

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#16
That's a West Elm piece from their Acorn line. We have that in their media console...and I can tell you it is nicely made. I just looked at it and from the back they joined the case at 45*, no lock joints.  And interestingly the back of the case is a full 3/4" thick, not the usual 1/4". Perhaps to reinforce the mitered joints in the case? It is hard to see from the picture but there is another nice detail.... the front edge of the case is beveled inwards at 45*. The drawers sit inside the front plane of the case about 3/4".

FWIW if you have a West Elm Outlet store nearby they occasionally carry items from that line (new in the box). When Corona is over call and they will let you know if they have one. Not uncommon to get furniture there at 40-50% off list. Outlet stores are mostly on the east coast. Heresy.....I know.
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#17
Dowels are strong and generally easy to execute.  The picture shows Festool dowels, but you can replicate with regular dowels.

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#18
(03-26-2020, 01:10 PM)joe1086 Wrote: That's a West Elm piece from their Acorn line. We have that in their media console...and I can tell you it is nicely made. I just looked at it and from the back they joined the case at 45*, no lock joints.  And interestingly the back of the case is a full 3/4" thick, not the usual 1/4". Perhaps to reinforce the mitered joints in the case? It is hard to see from the picture but there is another nice detail.... the front edge of the case is beveled inwards at 45*. The drawers sit inside the front plane of the case about 3/4".

FWIW if you have a West Elm Outlet store nearby they occasionally carry items from that line (new in the box). When Corona is over call and they will let you know if they have one. Not uncommon to get furniture there at 40-50% off list. Outlet stores are mostly on the east coast. Heresy.....I know.

Yes it is a West Elm piece.  I could buy it for her, but I've got the wood and nothing but time on my hands, so I'll build it.  In the pic I can't tell if there's a center divider and the overlay of the drawers is just hiding it.  I might go that route.
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#19
(03-26-2020, 11:10 AM)fredhargis Wrote: If you have a biscuit joiner, that would be my first choice. Perfect for that application.

Fred?  You know I have (or should I say HAD) a PC biscuit jointer.  Haven't used it in years and I searched for it but can't find it.  Nor can I recall who I lent it to.  It is tough getting old!!!
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#20
(03-26-2020, 09:28 AM)Dumb_Polack Wrote: Hi,
 #1 daughter wants me to make the attached dresser.  It ain't my style but hey, it is hers.  I'll be using cherry and I'm thinking of joining the carcass with miters.  However, I would like to reinforce them with miters  (I might stop the miters short of the front so I need to attach a face frame but that's still TBD).

My Unisaw is right-tilt but my table can't accommodate the required 59" width I need so I'm not sure how I can cut the spline.  I guess I could rig up something with my router/router table but that might be unwieldy.

2 Questions:

1) Would you go with a mitered spline?  (I could cut DTs to join the carcass, but I don' think that's in keeping with the style.)  If not a mitered spline, how would you connect the sides?

2) If a mitered spline is the way to go, how would you cut it???

Thanks!

(i'll also check youtube to see how others cut large mitered splines).
I would use biscuits but a spline is easy to do. You need a saw blade made for biscuits that goes in a router. I have or had ,don't recall seeing it for years a jig from Sears that  cut biscuit joints and also could do mitered slots. I asked a friend that still uses a router for splines where he got the cutter. Yonica , he said this brand is exceptional. I haven't heard of it myself. I'm sure Amana, Freud,  etc. all sell spline cutters. These are top bearing cutters. Set the height slightly below the centerline so the bearing is below the mitered edge. This will prevent marring the sharp edge. 
mike
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