Drawer Bottom Plane
#11
So I am starting to plan a drawer bottom plane. I am wanting to make it in the traditional plow plane style with a steel skate and fixed fence. This will be used to plow the drawer bottom grooves and with be set for 1/4" groove. 1/4" deep, and 1/4" from the bottom edge. For the skate, I am probably going to use O1 steel in either in 3/32" or 1/8" thickness. 

The one thing I am not figuring out is the blade. LN makes blades for side escarpment planes, but I am not seeing a blade that would be suitable for what I need. Basically, I need a 1/4" wide tapered iron. The traditional plow plane blades will not work for what I am planning. 

Anyone here make a drawer bottom plane? how did you make it, what did you use for an iron? I have seen some simpler builds online, but I have some nice 1/4 sawn beech and would prefer to build it in a more traditional style.
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#12
Purchase a suitable blade off eBay. Plenty plough blades available.

I would not use a steel skate - unnecessary, and add more complications, such as an external fence. You can integrate the fence on a wooden body, and it is much simpler to make.

The easiest way to make a plane like this is to use, or copy, half of a matched T&G plane set.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#13
Would something like this work:

Rob Cosman Drawer Bottom Plane
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#14
Thanks Derek,

I do have a set of wooden match planes for thinner stock, and they cut a groove much thinner than 1/4". I am planning on modeling this plan from them. I think I want to add the steel skate more of a challenge and test if I want to continue making other planes. I have made two sets of hollows and rounds and really need to get back to finishing the other sizes I had planned.

Red Rose productions makes and sells wooden planes and offers one exactly like what I want to build. He has aleady answered some of my questions.

https://redrosereproductions.com/tools/D...p131416063


I have found a few blades on ebay. Many of the plow blades are numbered and I am wondering if they are numbered in 16th as in would a #4 be 4/16"? Did the English use a numbering system different from the USA?
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#15
(03-31-2020, 08:35 PM)Philip1231 Wrote: Would something like this work:

Rob Cosman Drawer Bottom Plane

Actually, it would work. I was watching his video on that plane, but never visited the his store site. It is not a tapered iron, but apparently it works fine in his planes.  Thanks
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#16
Mine was made back in '64.....1864, Cincinnati, OH.   G. Roseboom
   
That I had to rehab a bit...
   
New tote, new fence, new wedges to replace the broken, worn out ones..
Winkgrin
   
There is a metal skate, though..
Rolleyes 
   
That is original to the plane. 
   
Seems to work fine..shavings curl out to one side, the wedge is shaped so it curls the shaving up and out to the right of the plane 
   
The wedge is the tapered part, cutter/iron is flat....has a v groove in the back edge of the iron, as it rests on a matching knife edge on the end of the skate, that serves as a "frog".


Nowadays? I usually just use my Stanley No. 45, with a #12 cutter.   the Roseboom's long arms make clamping the drawer sides a bit tricky...and, there is no depth stop.  Other than when it bottoms out. 
   
Original body is Beach....Walnut wedges seem to work better.  Fence is Ash.   Original screws for the fence to the arms were made before anyone decided to add a point to the screws being made.  
   
Hope this helps..
Cool
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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#17
Here is a simple plane by Matthew Kenney at FWW magazine. It works because it does not require any further adjustments ...

[Image: IMG_8946_web-1200x879.jpg]

That is what I would build. But I understand you wanting a challenge. This is what you want ...

[Image: d10f5e85a2047790b17f41eeaabbcb2f.jpg]

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#18
In the 18th century, a plane like you are describing was called a plough. A plane with multiple cutters and a movable fence was called a universal plough. Roubo shows both a simple plough (bouvet) and a "two piece plough"

I  made at least three ploughs 1975-1982 and I made one from an old knife, one from a file, and one forged from a screwdriver. Today I would buy an iron from Lie Nielsen. None of mine had an iron skate; they all had a "skate" that was an integral part of the body of the plane, which I would recommend.

I made both open mortise and closed mortise planes. In Hummel's book With Hammer in hand, only one plane out of fifty some illustrated has an open mortise: the plough. Here is an illustration of an open mortise plough from Roubo:

[Image: blogger-image--1311909890.jpg]
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#19
(03-31-2020, 11:48 AM)Scoony Wrote: So I am starting to plan a drawer bottom plane. I am wanting to make it in the traditional plow plane style with a steel skate and fixed fence. This will be used to plow the drawer bottom grooves and with be set for 1/4" groove. 1/4" deep, and 1/4" from the bottom edge. For the skate, I am probably going to use O1 steel in either in 3/32" or 1/8" thickness. 

The one thing I am not figuring out is the blade. LN makes blades for side escarpment planes, but I am not seeing a blade that would be suitable for what I need. Basically, I need a 1/4" wide tapered iron. The traditional plow plane blades will not work for what I am planning. 

Anyone here make a drawer bottom plane? how did you make it, what did you use for an iron? I have seen some simpler builds online, but I have some nice 1/4 sawn beech and would prefer to build it in a more traditional style.

What you are describing is not a drawer bottom plane, but a grooving plane. What Bandit showed is not a drawer plane or a plow plane, but a flooring plane. The only tool I know of specialized for drawers is the drawer bottom fillester. It has a moving fence like a universal fillester (fixed to the sole with 2 fillester head screws). Its a 19th c tool as far as I know. I have at least 2 of them and love them. They are short, maybe 6-8 inches tops. I use them in lieu of a plow plane since I only ever seem to use my plows for 1/4" grooves, 1/4-3/4" in from an edge. I think you'd get more use out of it if you made it the traditional way. No arms to fiddle with or get in the way. Otherwise, just make a set of match planes (which I also love), and use the grooving plane for drawers (I did that for many years). But don't call it a drawer bottom plane.
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#20
From last September's Labor Day Tractor Fest....
   
Match set...T & G...$30 a piece ($60 for the set
No )
   
IF they have the Fest this year, it was a Lion's Park, West Liberty, OH.    Used to be a yearly event.
Sad  You walk around a LOT, lots of farm tractors, a working saw mill that uses a wide belt drive from a Farmall's PTO side wheel.  and over a mile over vendors.   Some of my best rust hunts were down there....
Rolleyes 

We be splitting hairs here, about what name to call a plough plane....if'n it makes a groove, it is ploughing the wood, simple as can be.  All those other names were "selling points" by a maker.  
Cool 

As for me...
   
A Stanley #45 works just fine...
Winkgrin
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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