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I've had one of these off to the side for years (I picked one up in Illinois or Indiana before moving back to Texas, as I figured that would be rather expensive to ship). I've played around with it a few times, and pulled it out today and remembered something I've always been curious about, and figured someone here might know the answer. The 246 has two locations for the post in the front, and the instructions note that this "permits the use of a long or short saw." What is a long and short saw for this model? From what I can tell looking around on the internet, this saw typically came with a 26" backsaw, which I'm assuming is the long saw. Any idea what would be considered a short saw, and why one would want to use one? (I'm assuming the reason to use the short saw is for ease of transportation, but could be wrong).
Mark
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For more cutting capacity (wider board).
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When do small moldings and trim....about any saw with 4" under the spine will work...
I have a Stanley #346. I also have the much newer #2246A, with the cast in place guide arms...22" to 26" saws work fine.
Problem with too short of a saw, back stroke might cause the saw to come out of the back guide.
The main difference between the 246 and the 346....is the size of the frame....the #3 size frame is longer than the #2 sized frame. Both take the same sized saws.
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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(04-22-2020, 09:59 PM)msweig Wrote: Any idea what would be considered a short saw, and why one would want to use one? (I'm assuming the reason to use the short saw is for ease of transportation, but could be wrong).
Mark
No idea on the first question, and speculating on the second one.
I think you're probably right that it was for ease of transport. Many (maybe most) of these were used as jobsite saws, the period equivalent of a chopsaw. If you knew that you were trimming out one of those modern houses, where the maximum molding width was just 4" or so, you wouldn't need to carry the big saw to the job.
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This is my Stanley #346 Mitre Box and saw...note where the front guide post is sitting...yet the saw is a 4" by 26" mitre saw...
The main difference between the OP's mitre box and mine?
is the size of the frame used..a #2 frame is a bit shorter width wise than the #3 sized frame.
When I was rehabbing this one, I checked to see IF it ever used the long set up....nope...spent it entire career as a shorty.
Saw is original to the mitre box, btw.
May have some work for it later....
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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I love these old things!
I inherited one from my deceased FIL. In a kind of homage to him, I took it apart intending to refurbish it, and its been so long ago now I don't know how to put it back together!!
I have a manual but its not help.
Would anyone know if there is a parts diagram for this it?
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05-05-2020, 10:41 AM
(This post was last modified: 05-05-2020, 10:42 AM by Bill_Houghton.)
(05-05-2020, 09:45 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: Would anyone know if there is a parts diagram for this it?
I googled "Stanley 246 miter box manual," then looked at images. Depending on your particular miter box, you might need to try a different set of search terms. Try these:
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3cW70r3CpHo/W...%2Bmb3.png or
https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/n4p2vih.jpg
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As I said, the extra hole is to increase cutting width, by moving the front guide out a bit. I believe Stan Fallon had complete guides up at one time, but it has been years since I looked. I know I have original instructions packed away, for most of the miter boxes in my accumulation (I'm down to 16 complete, having given a few away).
