Dresser Progress

[jteneyck]

"Use a router to cut the mortises; no risk of punching through.  I use loose tenons most of the time which makes sizing the stretchers no different than what you do for pocket holes;"

I use a hollow chisel mortiser, so I have the stops on that. Then I use a dado blade to cut the tenons. I'm usually good on sizing, I just make the component lengths longer in Sketchup and mark the exposed lengths on the cutlist.

Do you buy your tenons, or do you make them? I would get a Domino if I could justify the cost.

No disrespect to you or anyone else but I don't understand why anyone would use a chisel mortiser unless they need to cut deep square shouldered through mortises.  It was great technology in 1880 but times and technology have changed.  A router or slot mortiser cuts mortises so much easier and cleaner, with no risk of blowing out the stock.  No maintenance with a router bit either; when it's dull you change it out in 2 minutes for a new one.  If you avoid using the chisel mortiser for risk of damaging your stock then maybe it's time to consider an alternative that still offers all the benefits.  


I make my own tenon stock, generally from scrap from the project so there's no issue with incompatibility, different moisture content, whatever.  You can make a whole project's worth of tenon stock in a few minutes and then rip to the widths needed, and round over the edges at the router table.  A Domino would be nice, but not worth $1500 to me at this stage of the game.  And with shop made tenons in routed mortises I'm not limited to the stock Domino sizes; I can make them any size that best suites the project.    If someone gave me a Domino I would still make my own tenon stock.  

Good luck with the project the rest of the way; I'm looking forward to future updates.  

John

[lincmercguy]

I could see using a router if I built the proper jigs for it. I picked up the mortiser on sale for a good price. It does make pretty quick work on the mortises and setup is easy. What seems to take more time for me is setting up to cut the tenons with the dado blade. Since every adjustment is magnified 2x, it takes me a while to sneak up on the correct blade height.

I would like to try through tenons someday, but I would like a much less consequential project for it like a shelf for mirror.

On your loose tenons, do you square up the mortises after cutting them, round over the tenons, or just let the gap exist? Makes sense to use project scrap for it, good use for it and making it of the same material makes for more consistent expansion.

I certainly do not follow a single traditions in my designs or methods. Sometimes buying a new tool is too tempting, lol.

One thing I did last year was buy one of the more fancy pocket hole jigs with the integrated clamp. It really speeds that process up compared to the clamp on style.

[jteneyck]

I'm not trying to sell you one of my horizontal router mortisers, though I would be happy to do so, but have you not seen my posts about it before?  It makes making mortises for both loose and integral tenons a simple, safe, and accurate process.  You can build the original version of the machine for free from the SketchUp model at the bottom of this web page.  As you will see if you look through the photos, you can cut integral tenons with it too, if that's what you prefer.  


I normally use loose tenons and unless there is some extraordinary reason to do so, I do not square the ends of the mortises.  I round over the edges of the tenon stock before cutting them to length.  Using loose tenons automatically eliminates the problem you described with integral tenons about getting the fit right. I usually leave about a 1/16" gap, too, so that I have some wiggle room during glue up to make sure the registration is correct.  When I use integral tenons it's a toss up whether to square the ends of the mortise or round over the tenons, but I usually round over the tenons because squaring the ends of the mortises can lead to blow out on the outboard end unless you have left a significant dog ear to be cut off later, and I often do not.  

John

[lincmercguy]

Very cool. Sorry, I've been on a woodworking hiatus for a couple of years, and am now getting back into it.

[KC]

No disrespect to you or anyone else but I don't understand why anyone would use a chisel mortiser unless they need to cut deep square shouldered through mortises.

And as a user of a spendy Powermatic mortise, I don't understand why anyone would want to use a router setup instead.    


That said, a lot of the hand-tool folks would shake their head at both of us.  


OP, that's gonna be a beauty.

[jteneyck]

And as a user of a spendy Powermatic mortise, I don't understand why anyone would want to use a router setup instead.    


That said, a lot of the hand-tool folks would shake their head at both of us.  


OP, that's gonna be a beauty.

To each his own.  I tried a chisel mortise.  Sharpening, adjusting, jambing in difficult wood, and hand paring still required afterwards quickly soured me on that approach.  I'd almost rather chop them by hand.  Then I tried a router.  Straight, smooth, precise mortises with no clean up required.  No bit or chisel sharpening and adjustment required either.  But I didn't like having to use a plunge router to get those great results, so I developed my horizontal router mortiser.  Problem solved, and for not much money.  There is no comparison in how simple and fast it is to cut mortises now in even the hardest wood or to make the most delicate cut.  

If you tried both side by side you would understand.  

John

[KC]

To each his own.  I tried a chisel mortise.  Sharpening, adjusting, jambing in difficult wood, and hand paring still required afterwards quickly soured me on that approach.  I'd almost rather chop them by hand.  Then I tried a router.  Straight, smooth, precise mortises with no clean up required.  No bit or chisel sharpening and adjustment required either.  But I didn't like having to use a plunge router to get those great results, so I developed my horizontal router mortiser.  Problem solved, and for not much money.  There is no comparison in how simple and fast it is to cut mortises now in even the hardest wood or to make the most delicate cut.  

If you tried both side by side you would understand.  

John

I don't have a fancy setup, but I used to use the router for mortises.  Mortiser was an improvement to me, and I've not had the jamming problems, etc.  As you say, more than one way to skin a cat.

[Arlin Eastman]

To each his own.  I tried a chisel mortise.  Sharpening, adjusting, jambing in difficult wood, and hand paring still required afterwards quickly soured me on that approach.  I'd almost rather chop them by hand.  Then I tried a router.  Straight, smooth, precise mortises with no clean up required.  No bit or chisel sharpening and adjustment required either.  But I didn't like having to use a plunge router to get those great results, so I developed my horizontal router mortiser.  Problem solved, and for not much money.  There is no comparison in how simple and fast it is to cut mortises now in even the hardest wood or to make the most delicate cut.  

If you tried both side by side you would understand.  

John

John

You said "To each is own twice" after trying to convince him of your way.  I think the time is to let it go.

By the way I would rather use a Mortiser also since I am just not as good with a router yet.




Line

I really really like how you made the stain to high light the figured grain.  It really stands out very nicely.  By the way I have never made furniture yet and hope to make some as nice as yours. 

[jteneyck]

John

You said "To each is own twice" after trying to convince him of your way.  I think the time is to let it go.

By the way I would rather use a Mortiser also since I am just not as good with a router yet.




Line

I really really like how you made the stain to high light the figured grain.  It really stands out very nicely.  By the way I have never made furniture yet and hope to make some as nice as yours. 

Pretty sure I only said that once, Arlin, but it got copied at least twice.  

I brought up using a router after the OP talked about why he chose not to use his chisel mortiser to connect the stretchers to the sides of his cabinet, a joint where you typically would use that type of joint.  The limitations of his chisel mortiser led him to an alternative approach.  Nothing wrong with that, but pocket screw joinery is not a forever joinery technique like M&T joints have proven to be.  I pointed out that he could still use M&T joints in that location by changing to a router driven approach.  Nothing more.  

John

[lincmercguy]