Gluing up frames
#21
(05-15-2020, 10:06 AM)Demps Wrote: Looking for best method of clamping up frames.  Picture 4 and 6 sided, say 12 to 30 inch diagonal.
I was about to buy a band clamp, but looking for experienced advise.

Smaller is easiest with this type https://www.woodcraft.com/products/pictu...29bb8085cc

For larger, I use a homemade version of this https://www.woodcraft.com/products/self-...f87b8255b4  Plans abound, or purchase.

Not four corners?  Band clamp works, but a set of pinch dogs helps a bunch while you fiddle and crank.  Sort of like the rub joint/CA glue tip. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/1-1-2...9b7bfe2e5e
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#22
(05-15-2020, 10:06 AM)Demps Wrote: Looking for best method of clamping up frames.  Picture 4 and 6 sided, say 12 to 30 inch diagonal.
I was about to buy a band clamp, but looking for experienced advise.

Before dumping money on something, try a packer's knot with some 1/4" or 1/8"  parachute type cord or other type cord that doesn't break easily.  You can get some pretty good compression out of that loop and it is particularly useful on flimsier stock where you don't want a band clamp collapsing things with its overpowering compression strength. A little experimenting with string will let you know the potential value of this knot.

For the times when you do need high compression, a Jorgensen 62 just can't be beat.  By substituting seat belt strapping for what comes with the clamp, the strapping is a little more resistant to glue adhesion.  This clamp will have to be found on the second-hand market since it is discontinued.

   

   

   
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#23
Photo 
(05-15-2020, 10:06 AM)Demps Wrote: Looking for best method of clamping up frames.  Picture 4 and 6 sided, say 12 to 30 inch diagonal.
I was about to buy a band clamp, but looking for experienced advise
[Image: frame-jig-resize.jpg]

I found most band clamps or other "jigs" frustrating, as the frame or band clamp would slip out of place, or cause the frame to bow inwards.

Here is what I found to work for me.

The outer wedges are pin nailed to a backer board.  Smear a tad of paste wax on the backer board in the corners before you start to keep the glue from sticking Gently tap the inner ones in place, working your way around the frame, until the corners close up.
CONS:
Jigs are unique to the frame, with some leeway, so one would have to make a jig for every different size/width. If one was banging out a few exactly the same, no problem.
Your stuck with the jig.
PROS:
Man. I tell you, nothing I've tried is easier.
Jig is easy to make.
You get even constant pressure to all sides, and it's self-squaring.
Can be easily adapted to any number of sides.

Once I glued ONE frame up this way, I knew I would never turn back.
NOTE: This is NOT my original idea, but I learned it so long ago, I don't know who to give credit to.
YMMV
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#24
I had a frame shop and we used an underpinner.  You pretty much have to do 5 to 10 frames a day to have this make sense.  They cost over $2,000.00.

The "Thumbnailer" is less expensive and you may be able to find them used.  But you would still have to have a good bit of work to have them make sense.

I looked online and the C+H Thumbnail Master has been discontinued.  You might be able to find one used.

Hoffmann, which only made industrial grade machines is now offering a smaller unit.  It is far more versatile.  I don't know the cost.  Note:  These act as clamps.  Glue is still required though I knew some picture framers who skipped the glue part of the process.  Note:  The bottom-most video is the one you should be watching.

https://hoffmann-usa.com/hoffmann-x-seri...ne-videos/
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#25
I glued up a simple 4 sided casing last night and simply used 4 k body clamps.

You just apply pressure equally to make sure you don't push one piece past another.  If you do, take some pressure off the opposing clamps and tighten some on the other until the corners match.

So easy to do and you get good pressure on the miter joint.  Surely you have some bar clamps.  No need to buy anything
"This is our chance, this our lives, this is our planet we're standing on. Use your choice, use your voice, you can save our tomorrows now." - eV
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#26
I've had decent luck using this Jorgensen clamp .  I bought couplers and extra lengths of all thread to use it for larger frames.  Like some of the others, it's a little fiddly, but it works.

[Image: images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcTSq-0YjnzV4wh1YKjuf...d&usqp=CAU]
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#27
Before I got my  underpinner we used to corner nail using a picture framers' vise.  This is not a clamp, but a genuine vise.  They are much cheaper nowadays.  I spent about $150.00 back in the 1980s, and I see Rockler has them for $80.00.

This is not an ideal setup.  Ideally the clamp is mounted below the work surface so that the molding is supported by the work surface and is level to the clamping surface. 

The vise clamps onto the rabbit and fine adjustments are easy.  Then I would corner nail with small brads (pre-drill).  I used "Corner Weld" glue.  I tested it recently and it is no stronger than Woodworkers II or III, but it sets up in minutes.  You apply the glue to the surface and rub the surfaces together and in a few seconds it starts to grab.  Then clamp and corner nail.  In five minutes it is strong enough to finish assembly.  I would glue two sections together, then the remaining two sections.  Then wait about five minutes and put together the entire frame. 

Woodworkers 2 or 3 would be fine, but you would have to wait at least a half an hour vs. 5 minutes with the Corner Weld.  Corner Weld is made by Framemica, a major producer of picture framing moldings.  You have to source it on line.

The quality of the joints was fine, but it was too time consuming for a busy shop.

[Image: 36474-03-1000.jpg]
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#28
I've used most of the above at one time or another -- strap clamps, Merle Clamp, Blockzz and shop-made versions. heavy duty rubber bands or bike inner tubes, framing vise,  corner blocks and clamps, TiteBond Quick & Thick glue.  Other things I've used:


Packing tape on the corners, then roll them up and tape the last corner. 

A homemade clamp that does to adjacent corners and is clamped in the middle with a standard small clamp.

   





It sort of depends on how many I'm doing at once, size, profile of the molding, finished or unfinished molding, etc.
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#29
There are many ways to do this as we see above, but one thing I have learned is that any miter joint should be reinforced somehow. I generally use same species splines but Dominoes or similar can be very effective too. 

Once one of my perfectly glued miters came undone I swore I would reinforce every one from then on. I've learned to be a belt and suspender type from bitter experience.
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#30
(05-15-2020, 10:06 AM)Demps Wrote: Looking for best method of clamping up frames.  Picture 4 and 6 sided, say 12 to 30 inch diagonal.
I was about to buy a band clamp, but looking for experienced advise.

Bessey Band Clamps. VAS 23. The design ensures that the band is drawn equally along it’s length for even clamping.

I did the video:

Ralph Bagnall
www.woodcademy.com
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