concrete screws
#17
I much prefer Red Head anchoring system.
If using 2”X framing:
Use a story stick to mark the locations, drill the top of the bottom plate with a forstner bit to sink the heads level or just below the top of the plate.
Drill and vacuum the concrete slab and install with a drill and socket.
Gary

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#18
(05-15-2020, 12:52 PM)Hank Knight Wrote: If you have a lot of holes to drill in concrete, invest in an SDS rotary hammer (Bosch Bulldog for example). It will make your life sooo much easier. My shop has poured concrete walls. I bought an entry level Bosch rotary hammer years ago and it is one of the best tool purchases I've ever made. I'll bet I have a couple of hundred Tapcons in my shop walls, not to mention elsewhere around the house. There's no comparison between drilling holes in concrete with a rotary hammer and drilling with a regular drill or even a hammer drill. Piece of cake.

Like Hank said

(05-15-2020, 02:10 PM)Halfathumb Wrote: I'll be anchoring 8' and 12' walls to the concrete patio. What should the spacing be for Tapcons? I have a heavy duty craftsman 1/2" drill that has been my go to guy for over 30 years for this kind of work. Since I'll only have 4 walls I'm hoping that'll do the job. I do have a PC impact driver that I got several years ago in a set at good price from the PX. I might give that a try finally.

Thanks everyone.

Jim

Rent one you will thank Hank later.  You can pre drill the holes in the wood after that use the rotary hammer which the bit does not like wood to well but will go thru it.  It should take only one masonry bit if it is new.  Old ones even borrowed could be buggered up.
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#19
(05-15-2020, 12:52 PM)Hank Knight Wrote: If you have a lot of holes to drill in concrete, invest in an SDS rotary hammer (Bosch Bulldog for example). It will make your life sooo much easier. My shop has poured concrete walls. I bought an entry level Bosch rotary hammer years ago and it is one of the best tool purchases I've ever made. I'll bet I have a couple of hundred Tapcons in my shop walls, not to mention elsewhere around the house. There's no comparison between drilling holes in concrete with a rotary hammer and drilling with a regular drill or even a hammer drill. Piece of cake.
Hank,

This was a fabulous suggestion. Rented one, planted 15 anchor bolts less than 1 hour work. Thanks

Jim
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#20
(05-24-2020, 10:34 AM)Halfathumb Wrote: Hank,

This was a fabulous suggestion. Rented one, planted 15 anchor bolts less than 1 hour work. Thanks

Jim

Glad it worked for you, Jim. Those things make a world of difference. Post photos of your greenhouse when you're done. My wife wants one.
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#21
(05-25-2020, 06:47 AM)Hank Knight Wrote: Glad it worked for you, Jim. Those things make a world of difference. Post photos of your greenhouse when you're done. My wife wants one.

will do Hank. We're forecast for a lot of rain so it good be another week or 2. I want to put a deck stain on all of the woodworks before putting on the polycarbonate panels etc. so I'll have to wait for the wood to dry out.

The framing isn't bad since this my first time since I built a shed (by the plans) in 1998.

Jim
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#22
In 1970 I sold home improvement products to contractors.  Back then they used lead wool for anchors.  It resembled a very coarse grade of steel wool, but formed from lead.  The contractor would drill an oversized hole, stuff the lead wool in the hole and tamp it down with a large nail-set.

He would then drive the screws in.  It held very well.

Home Depot lists it as a product.  If you ever have to replace an old anchor the lead wool is very forgiving in hole sizing.  It is not a very efficient way to work initially, but it is a handy solution to a damaged anchor.
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