(Mostly) Sapele Wine Buffet
#11
[Image: 20200601-203933.jpg]

[Image: 20200603-144654.jpg]

[Image: 20200603-144708.jpg]



[Image: 20200603-144732.jpg]

I've been working on this thing for what feels like forever. I made the top almost two years ago (I think, it's definitely been a while) and then finally with the help of the lockdowns completed the rest. The top is mostly sapele with maple and bloodwood accents. Since I just posted about drawer boxes, I thought I'd throw a picture of that in. It's eucalyptus (red grandis), which is actually a really pretty wood. Just screwed together and the counterbored holes plugged with walnut dowels. This was mostly because I made the first one too big, so this seemed like a fast way and I was suddenly on something of a timeline because this thing weighs a metric ton and I only had help carrying it up for a short window. In any case, as you can see it's already holding critically important items thanks to my daughter.

I stole the design for the wine lattice from somewhere online. I used some 1x12 pine boards I had laying around and added a sapele strip to match the rest. It didn't seem worthwhile to use all sapele for that, especially since space was somewhat at a premium (the design only allows for standard size wine bottles, and anything at all oversize won't fit). For whatever reason, the inner cross is African mahogany. I do not have any reason why I decided to use a different wood there.

I made the base molding with a simple molding profile bit. The base itself is mahogany plywood (really pretty, but stupidly expensive). I screwed some pine strips to the bottom of the plywood (1x3) and used pocket screws to attach the base molding. The inside of the molding then has a 1x2 strip that helps support the main cabinet. It's still based on the shear strength of the screws, but there are a lot of them.

The side panels (well, the raised panel bit used to make them) claimed a piece of my finger on February 21st. It is still not fully healed. The profiles for the side panels are slightly different than the door panels. I originally tried to cheap out and bought a Chinesium rail and stile bit set intended for thicker stock, but while they cut wood OK they were not matched. I didn't see any way to fix them with shims either. The rail bit could make a cut and then be raised (or lowered) about 1/64" or so to make another pass. The joint wasn't as clean, but I figured this was fine because the side panels would have no exposed edges. Between the side panels and the door I bought a buy once cry once Freud bit set and it was well worth the investment. On the downside, I had already made the stile cuts on the door pieces, and I ended up ripping them off to use the Freud bits. This reduced the stile width by 3/8", which unfortunately meant the pretty raised panels I had already glued up couldn't be used. I can use them on something else, but I had found the one piece of sapele that had some visible sapwood and the glued panel looked pretty. I can use it for something else but I wanted to use it here. Oh well.
 
As usual, most of woodworking is about hiding your mistakes. My initial intent in attaching the back was to set the plywood in rabbets cut into the inside of the side panels. That part was fine. I then intended to countersink screws into the plywood and then into the inner carcass plywood panels. The countersink managed to cause massive tearout in the plywood (a problem I've not had before) so I ended up routing out about a 1 1/4" groove in the plywood and putting in matching sapele "straps" to screw through. It isn't a bad look, but wasn't my original intent. Doesn't matter too much since it's against the wall.

Finish was two coats of Watco natural (way more on the top, I'm not sure). I don't use it the way they really intend, but it works for me. I do two relatively heavy coats in moderately quick succession and let it soak in as much as it will. Once dry (usually the next day) I'll use a Scotch-Brite pad (6448, equivalent to regular green kitchen scrubbers and about 600 grit) and lots of mineral oil to scrub it down. This doesn't really knock the finish down much (Watco isn't glossy anyway) but it does remove all nubs, tackiness, and unevenness. Then I buff it with a dry cloth (usually shop rags). It produces a satin and soft-feeling finish that still holds the feel and look of wood. It's not really suitable for heavy use, but it can be easily repaired.
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#12
(06-03-2020, 02:48 PM)FS7 Wrote: [Image: 20200601-203933.jpg]

[Image: 20200603-144654.jpg]

[Image: 20200603-144708.jpg]



[Image: 20200603-144732.jpg]

I've been working on this thing for what feels like forever. I made the top almost two years ago (I think, it's definitely been a while) and then finally with the help of the lockdowns completed the rest. The top is mostly sapele with maple and bloodwood accents. Since I just posted about drawer boxes, I thought I'd throw a picture of that in. It's eucalyptus (red grandis), which is actually a really pretty wood. Just screwed together and the counterbored holes plugged with walnut dowels. This was mostly because I made the first one too big, so this seemed like a fast way and I was suddenly on something of a timeline because this thing weighs a metric ton and I only had help carrying it up for a short window. In any case, as you can see it's already holding critically important items thanks to my daughter.

I stole the design for the wine lattice from somewhere online. I used some 1x12 pine boards I had laying around and added a sapele strip to match the rest. It didn't seem worthwhile to use all sapele for that, especially since space was somewhat at a premium (the design only allows for standard size wine bottles, and anything at all oversize won't fit). For whatever reason, the inner cross is African mahogany. I do not have any reason why I decided to use a different wood there.

I made the base molding with a simple molding profile bit. The base itself is mahogany plywood (really pretty, but stupidly expensive). I screwed some pine strips to the bottom of the plywood (1x3) and used pocket screws to attach the base molding. The inside of the molding then has a 1x2 strip that helps support the main cabinet. It's still based on the shear strength of the screws, but there are a lot of them.

The side panels (well, the raised panel bit used to make them) claimed a piece of my finger on February 21st. It is still not fully healed. The profiles for the side panels are slightly different than the door panels. I originally tried to cheap out and bought a Chinesium rail and stile bit set intended for thicker stock, but while they cut wood OK they were not matched. I didn't see any way to fix them with shims either. The rail bit could make a cut and then be raised (or lowered) about 1/64" or so to make another pass. The joint wasn't as clean, but I figured this was fine because the side panels would have no exposed edges. Between the side panels and the door I bought a buy once cry once Freud bit set and it was well worth the investment. On the downside, I had already made the stile cuts on the door pieces, and I ended up ripping them off to use the Freud bits. This reduced the stile width by 3/8", which unfortunately meant the pretty raised panels I had already glued up couldn't be used. I can use them on something else, but I had found the one piece of sapele that had some visible sapwood and the glued panel looked pretty. I can use it for something else but I wanted to use it here. Oh well.
 
As usual, most of woodworking is about hiding your mistakes. My initial intent in attaching the back was to set the plywood in rabbets cut into the inside of the side panels. That part was fine. I then intended to countersink screws into the plywood and then into the inner carcass plywood panels. The countersink managed to cause massive tearout in the plywood (a problem I've not had before) so I ended up routing out about a 1 1/4" groove in the plywood and putting in matching sapele "straps" to screw through. It isn't a bad look, but wasn't my original intent. Doesn't matter too much since it's against the wall.

Finish was two coats of Watco natural (way more on the top, I'm not sure). I don't use it the way they really intend, but it works for me. I do two relatively heavy coats in moderately quick succession and let it soak in as much as it will. Once dry (usually the next day) I'll use a Scotch-Brite pad (6448, equivalent to regular green kitchen scrubbers and about 600 grit) and lots of mineral oil to scrub it down. This doesn't really knock the finish down much (Watco isn't glossy anyway) but it does remove all nubs, tackiness, and unevenness. Then I buff it with a dry cloth (usually shop rags). It produces a satin and soft-feeling finish that still holds the feel and look of wood. It's not really suitable for heavy use, but it can be easily repaired.

Nice piece!

BTW, is that a cat on the shelf in the 1st pic??
Dumber than I appear
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#13
That looks great!
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#14
LOL, no. It's a blanket. One from last night and one from this morning.

No idea why my wife thinks a blanket should go in the kitchen. But apparently it has to be a blanket and it has to be just the right one.
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#15
Nice work and a great write up of your adventures in building it. Thanks for sharing.
John
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#16
Very nicely done! I do like those raised panels/
Cool
Cool
Cool
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#17
Very nice!  Sapele is one of my favorites.
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#18
That is a great looking piece.  Well done.  How about some closeup shots.  I'd really like a better view of the top and breadboard ends, and the wine rack.  

John
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#19
Leaving for a short vacation in a few hours but I'll do that when I get back on Monday.

I will also post the full size image links. Looks like using the image link automatically resized them.
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#20
[Image: 20200603-231144.jpg]

[Image: 20200603-231046.jpg]

Full-size links:
https://ibb.co/7Nzm2MZ
https://ibb.co/YDhbcL9
https://ibb.co/5kZtQjS
https://ibb.co/2STP1cY
https://ibb.co/4ZdBFjg
https://ibb.co/0syr8pb
https://ibb.co/ChWp4ZH

That's definitely one more than I posted but I'm on my phone so it's hard to tell what's what.

The breadboard ends are nothing special. I used loose tenons (many of them), glued in the center and in elongated slots at the end. I honestly don't remember but I assume the elongated mortises are in the main top since I usually remove more material from the bigger piece.

Since it was built so long ago and stored I had an opportunity to observe the movement. It was laid flat for a while and cupped slightly, which the breadboard ends did not prevent. I don't know that regular ends would have fared any better. I could probably do the biggest and longest Domino tenons that would fit. In any case I stood it up on end, at which point it equalized and has remained stable for most of that two year period.

The wine lattice was interesting. The construction is mostly glue, screws, and dowels. The inner cubes, if it isn't clear, are all the same length. I figured this way there was no "right" way to orient them. The inner mahogany cross interlocks just by setting the dado stack to the width of the board.

The original design seemed to have the corners cut at 45 degrees and simply butted up against the outer surfaces. I opted for a v-groove router bit and routed the sides, bottom, top, and middle (both sides). I measured carefully and made everything as square as I could (lots of dry fitting first) but the assembled piece had some very small gaps I deemed unacceptable so I ended up adding a thin strip of sapele to the front to create a stopped groove. The top of the wine lattice piece is solid sapele and is intended to be an open (and visible shelf) so I wanted to make that pretty. The wine lattice is technically removable but I don't see any reason why I'd do that. It would leave screw holes anyway.

The cabinets have adjustable shelves, just 3/4" birch plywood with solid sapele edging. I used the Kreg shelf pin jig this time, which is really fast and easy. That said, it didn't leave perfect holes (some tearout) so next time I'll experiment with using masking tape or a Forstner bit.
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