knife wall
#11
So I came upon a video by Paul Sellers where he talks about making a "knife wall" with a Stanley pocket knife. Now, we've all used a knife wall to guide a cut with a saw or chisel, but no matter what tool I've used I can never cross cut deep enough to be very useful. I even tried a well sharpened knife like what Sellers recommends but it doesn't really cut deep enough. Am I going about this wrong? Very frustrating because a deep cut would make chopping out dovetails much easier.
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#12
(06-04-2020, 07:29 AM)stevema Wrote: So I came upon a video by Paul Sellers where he talks about making a "knife wall" with a Stanley pocket knife. Now, we've all used a knife wall to guide a cut with a saw or chisel, but no matter what tool I've used I can never cross cut deep enough to be very useful. I even tried a well sharpened knife like what Sellers recommends but it doesn't really cut deep enough. Am I going about this wrong? Very frustrating because a deep cut would make chopping out dovetails much easier.

Take a couple light passes (I find I reach for my X-Acto knife more than my true "marking knife" but anything sharp does the trick) then chop out a little V shaped wedge up to it with a chisel. Doesn't have to be much deeper than about 1/16" IMO to be useful.
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#13
(06-04-2020, 07:29 AM)stevema Wrote: So I came upon a video by Paul Sellers where he talks about making a "knife wall" with a Stanley pocket knife. Now, we've all used a knife wall to guide a cut with a saw or chisel, but no matter what tool I've used I can never cross cut deep enough to be very useful. I even tried a well sharpened knife like what Sellers recommends but it doesn't really cut deep enough. Am I going about this wrong? Very frustrating because a deep cut would make chopping out dovetails much easier.

Steve, regardless of what Paul Sellers believes, he did not invent the knife wall. There are lots of ways to do this. For dovetails ....

[Image: ThroughDovetails3_html_aed5591.jpg]

[Image: ThroughDovetails3_html_6ebe88a1.jpg]

Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/T...ails3.html

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#14
Thanks, Derek.
The method you describe is the way I've been doing it, with a marking gauge. It just seems that the deeper the cut, the quicker and easier the paring out will be. The video with Sellers seems to show a much deeper cut than I seem capable of making... is there any technique or tool to make the cut as deep as possible?
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#15
All Paul Sellers "invented" was the name to call the trick of using a knife to score a line.    First a light pass, followed by 1 or 2 more heavier ones, and then use a WIDE chisel. 

Little marking gauges won't work too well, when you need to mark out things like dados out in the middle of a panel.....there is where you need to use a knife & square....and maybe a chisel
   
Sometimes, I keep things light...other times..
   
   
Something a little sturdier is call for....when it is out of the reach of my 6" marking gauges...
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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#16
(06-04-2020, 09:07 AM)bandit571 Wrote: All Paul Sellers "invented" was the name to call the trick of using a knife to score a line.    First a light pass, followed by 1 or 2 more heavier ones, and then use a WIDE chisel. 

Little marking gauges won't work too well, when you need to mark out things like dados out in the middle of a panel.....there is where you need to use a knife & square....and maybe a chisel

Sometimes, I keep things light...other times..


Something a little sturdier is call for....when it is out of the reach of my 6" marking gauges...

What tool do you have circled there? Utility knife, pocket knife?
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#17
Steve,

I've not seen the video you are talking about but also consider what type of wood Paul ws using to demonstrate.  Much easier to get a deeper mark in soft pine versus hard maple.  

The technique described by others here is what I use.  If i need it deeper after paring out the V I will re-knife the line then pare again.
~ Chris
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#18
(06-04-2020, 08:53 AM)stevema Wrote: Thanks, Derek.
The method you describe is the way I've been doing it, with a marking gauge. It just seems that the deeper the cut, the quicker and easier the paring out will be. The video with Sellers seems to show a much deeper cut than I seem capable of making... is there any technique or tool to make the cut as deep as possible?

Steve, it is a very simple issue to take a marking knife to the scribed line. Take a couple of light scores along the scribed line, gradually increasing the downforce. The secret to scoring deep lines is to do it in a few strokes, and not one. This maintains control - a deep, heavy hand will lose control.

I always deepen the baseline before removing waste, either with the marking gauge (cutting gauge works best) or with a knife ... and then undercut with a chisel.

[Image: AnotherCoffeeTable2_html_3fc628d.jpg]

Then I remove the waste ...

[Image: AnotherCoffeeTable2_html_783be549.jpg]

Finally, there is little left to pare away ...

[Image: AnotherCoffeeTable2_html_5db86564.jpg]

Link:  http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/A...able2.html

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#19
All of this talk of doing it gently.    I use a machete and if done right and sharp enough it will get it done quick. 
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As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification.  Thank You Everyone.

It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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#20
(06-04-2020, 10:05 AM)cwarner Wrote: Steve,

I've not seen the video you are talking about but also consider what type of wood Paul ws using to demonstrate.  Much easier to get a deeper mark in soft pine versus hard maple.  

The technique described by others here is what I use.  If i need it deeper after paring out the V I will re-knife the line then pare again.

I am using it on Ash in the project I am working on now.....READ.    ONE light pass, followed by heavier passes.   All I need is enough to GUIDE  a saw blade.   Does NOT need to be a "Mile deep".....just enough to act as a guide.   maybe go and watch a video?

I needed stopped dados for the saw holders in that saw til....
   
Knife wall to guide a backsaw, once a "mortise" was made at the stopped part of the dado....then a sharp chisel to pop most of the waste out,,,then the Stanley No. 71-1/2 to flatten the bottom of the dado...
   
But, the light pass with the knife, gives a line for heavier cuts to follow....Then he uses a wide chisel on the waste side of the line/knife wall...just enough for the saw to follow.

He uses that "pocket knife" a lot....not just for knife walls, either.  And..it is usually way sharper than any Xacto knife blade....
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
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