Finish For Clear Pine Case Interior: Shellac/No Finish At All?
#10
I am looking slightly ahead to finishing the interior pine panels of the hunt-board I am building (Hunt-Board Build) and I am trying to decide
if I should use, maybe a coat or two of Seal Coat Shellac, or maybe some sort of wax, or perhaps no finish at all. A water-borne poly would also fit the bill. What say you?
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#11
Several coats of a One pound cut of blonde Shellac followed by rubbing in a paste wax.
Gary

Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
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#12
Best way to apply: I have sprayed Seal Coat with good results. If I use the one pound cut of BS can/should I wipe it on, brush it on, or try spraying?


(06-05-2020, 03:32 PM)Gary G™ Wrote: Several coats of a One pound cut of blonde Shellac followed by rubbing in a paste wax.
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#13
I mix my own shellac from flakes—don’t trust the canned stuff.
I wipe it on.
Gary

Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
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#14
(06-05-2020, 05:14 PM)Gary G™ Wrote: I mix my own shellac from flakes—don’t trust the canned stuff.
I wipe it on.

Why is that?  I've been using Sealcoat for more than 10 years and never had a product issue.  I have had it leak through the can, however, which makes a heck of a mess, so I transfer it to 1 qt jars now.  But product wise it has always been good and lasts for at least 2 years.  It's also the cheapest option if you by the 2 gallon deal through HD. And you can make any color you want by adding Transtint dye to it.  


What is it you don't trust about it?  

John
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#15
Either a waterborne or shellac would be good, but you may have to sand the raised grain out with the waterborne.....the shellac might be a little less work.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#16
On a small piece, Sealcoat with a foam brush.  The foam brush will get soft after a while, but will not dissolve.  It is fine fore small pieces.

If this is not going to be any kind of work surface or handled surface, the Sealcoat alone is fine.  It will not color the wood at all. 

I would not leave it unfinished.  Dust will accumulate in the pores and dusting bare wood is not as effective as doing so on a sealed wood surface. 

#4 steel wool will slightly degloss the finis and remove any dried in dust. 

Spraying will work.  Sealcoat is available in aerosol, but it is hard to find.

I use Sealcoat for drawer interiors.  It dries quickly and does not smell after it dries.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#17
OK, thanks all: sealcoat it is.
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#18
I used to coat drawer interiors with brushing lacquer because of the fast drying time.  But the fumes were too obnoxious in the  winter with the windows closed.

I then switched to sealcoat and that was better, but in the enclosed drawers the smell would linger for months.

I now use Varathane's Triple Thick waterborne poly.  I only need one coat for the  drawers and there is no lingering odor.  I applies nicely with a foam brush.

[Image: varathane-polyurethane-wood-finish-281543-64_1000.jpg]
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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