Rasp for spindle sander?? Edit or burr??
#9
Working on a project with a lot of tight inside curves--way too tight for the 1/2" spindle sanding sleeve. It occurred to me that 1/8 & 1/4" rasps that thread into my Ridgid sander would be just the ticket. Looking around I haven't found any such an item--does anyone have a source?

Thinking more maybe a burr is a better word for what I'm looking for. Looked around for one threaded on the shank but no luck. Any ideas out there?

Thanks,  g
I've only had one...in dog beers.

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#10
How about a dremel with a small sanding drum?


Rick
Rick

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#11
I've read about "pattern makers wood rasps" and they are supposed to cut twice as fast as a regular rasp and leave finer finish.  The round ones are hard to find, the half round an flats are easier to find.  These are "hand stitched" and cost more than a machine made rasp.  And they cost more.  But people who have used them swear by them.  As you can see in the image below the barbs are not neatly aligned.  That apparently is the secret to the faster cutting and smoother finish.

https://www.dick.de/en/files-and-rasps/p...ern-makers

https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/ax18846n/

[Image: 9949x.jpg]
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#12
Thanks Rick,
Thought about the dremel but I don't have confidence I can control it by hand in tight corners. I did try a 1/4" roto-zip bit in the drill press. It works to a point but the teeth are inline so it makes a series of parallel grooves across the surface. If the DP oscillated it would be a good option.

Cooler,
I'm working in tight corners- 1/8 to 3/8" diameter- I don't think I'll find a hand rasp that small

Thanks, g
I've only had one...in dog beers.

"You can see the stars and still not see the light"
The Eagles: Already Gone
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#13
(06-11-2020, 08:34 AM)shoottmx Wrote: Thanks Rick,
Thought about the dremel but I don't have confidence I can control it by hand in tight corners. I did try a 1/4" roto-zip bit in the drill press.  It works to a point but the teeth are inline so it makes a series of parallel grooves across the surface. If the DP oscillated it would be a good option.

Cooler,
I'm working  in tight corners- 1/8 to 3/8" diameter- I don't think I'll find a hand rasp that small

Thanks,  g

For them, consider spending more time and use your (unused) chain saw files.  

Or make a jig to hold your Dremel out of ply and hose clamps, with a table attached to support your work.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#14
I've seen the Narex ads:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEV70jN6EHY

https://www.infinitytools.com/ssearch?q=narex+rotary

They are a bit pricey and they call out "1/4" shaft, but it is actually 6mm, which is no problem in a hand held drill.   Note this is not intended to be used in a router which will spin too fast and probably overheat the steel.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#15
(06-10-2020, 05:32 PM)shoottmx Wrote: Working on a project with a lot of tight inside curves--way too tight for the 1/2" spindle sanding sleeve. It occurred to me that 1/8 & 1/4" rasps that thread into my Ridgid sander would be just the ticket. Looking around I haven't found any such an item--does anyone have a source?

Thinking more maybe a burr is a better word for what I'm looking for. Looked around for one threaded on the shank but no luck. Any ideas out there?

Thanks,  g

..............................
Well....you "could" make them yourself using 1/4" drill rod... Grind a diamond point on a hard steel punch, and resting the rod in a "V" block, punch the teeth on the rod and then Harden it, after you thread one end...It would take some "experimenting" but I believe one could be cobbled up that would work.. Alternately, you could braze part of a chainsaw file to a 1/4" stud and give that a go,...It would definitely takes some "fiddling" but that's th fun of it..
Winkgrin  
Big Grin

EDIT...I just thought about another solution that for me would be easier...I would cut off a 1/4" bolt and center drill one end to accomodate a 1/8" shank HSS straight "Cylinder burr".....Just soft-solder the burr into the unthreaded end of the rod..To replace the burr, just heat and "UN-solder" it. That would be quick ans easy to make.
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#16
Ended up using a rotozip burr in the DP to remove most of the waste then cleaned up with rat tail files and sandpaper on dowels. Hopefully there will be a coffee table to show you all in a week or two.

Thanks for the suggestions, g
I've only had one...in dog beers.

"You can see the stars and still not see the light"
The Eagles: Already Gone
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