will be working with black walnut for the first time and have questions

[Cooler]

I will be building a few upper cabinets and some slab cabinet doors from black walnut. 

I am not too concerned about the plywood, it should behave like other faced plywood.  If I am wrong, please let me know.

I have read that pre-drilling is essential for screwing into walnut.

I usually build face frames using pocket hole screws, and I usually attach the face frame to the boxes using pocket hole screws. 

Will the screws cause a splitting issue?

If so, I can switch to dowels.  I am comfortable with dowel construction; it is just slower than pocket hole screws and not as easily reversible. 

For finishing I was planning on using teak oil plus a water based clear topcoat. 

Any comments would be very welcome.

Best Regards (and stay healthy),

Cooler.

[Stwood_]

Shouldn't be no more problem using pocket screws on walnut than on oak. I think walnut is a little softer than oak.
I've made a lot of walnut boxes and frames and seldom ever had one crack from a pocket screw.

Your type of finish plan sounds fine.

[Cooler]

Shouldn't be no more problem using pocket screws on walnut than on oak. I think walnut is a little softer than oak.
I've made a lot of walnut boxes and frames and seldom ever had one crack from a pocket screw.

Your type of finish plan sounds fine.

Thanks.

I will make a couple of test joints to start.

[Hank Knight]

Walnut is a very forgiving wood to work. I like it best of all the North American hardwoods. You shouldn't have any problems with pocket hole screws.

[petertay15]

I have used black walnut for furniture like headboards, large armoires, and cabinets. Never thought of pre-drilling, it’s not really that hard a wood. Never had a split, pocket screws or otherwise. Chisels are used for mortises, and dowels work also. Walnut is a joy to work with. — Peter

[BrokenOlMarine]

Careful.of the dust when planing or sanding, it can cause eye irritation or headaches.  I.wear a respirator and run both my dust collector and overhead air filter.  But, I do a lot with black walnut, starting out with slabs,. 

[FS7]

I'd work with walnut a lot more if it weren't so expensive. Here it's about twice the price of other woods that offer similar properties, such as sapele or African mahogany. It's naturally quite pretty if you like the uniform brown color.

I have never had any problems working with it. It's not any harder than any other American hardwood, but it seems less likely to burn that most any other. It's got attractive face grain and it is not predisposed to split. I imagine you'll enjoy working with it, especially if you have a good source at a decent price.

[fredhargis]

Your choice of Teak oil is interesting, you might want to check this article.

[Cooler]

Your choice of Teak oil is interesting, you might want to check this article.

I liked the way Watco Dark Walnut Teak Oil colored the black walnut.  I planned on a couple of light coats of clear waterborne poly as a top coat. This is for interior cabinets.

[tomsteve]

fine thread PH screws havent been a problem for me with walnut.