Advice & Counsel Needed
#21
  Re: Advice & Counsel Needed by cputnam (Related to my bandsa...)
If you want to get a sawstop, that's fine.
But because "my wife will only let me get a sawstop"?
Don't let your wife control your life that much.
Other than a dado blade and a tennoning jig, you can do just about every cut with a blade guard. (I am probably forgetting a few)
It's safe. You don't have to get a sawstop if you don't want to.
If dado blades scare you, use a router instead.
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#22
  Re: Advice & Counsel Needed by cputnam (Related to my bandsa...)
(06-19-2020, 01:10 PM)paul2004 Wrote: If you want to get a sawstop, that's fine.
But because "my wife will only let me get a sawstop"?
Don't let your wife control your life that much.
Other than a dado blade and a tennoning jig, you can do just about every cut with a blade guard. (I am probably forgetting a few)
It's safe.  You don't have to get a sawstop if you don't want to.
If dado blades scare you, use a router instead.

I'm trying to blame the SS on her but I agree with her. At my age, it would be very unfair to her to have more body parts amputated. She also makes a valid point that a SS will probably have a far better resale value than a Bosch, Dewalt or Hitachi.
Thanks,  Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#23
  Re: Advice & Counsel Needed by cputnam (Related to my bandsa...)
(06-19-2020, 06:19 AM)fredhargis Wrote: I've ripped quite a bit of stock that's less than 7" with my tracksaw. I just butt another piece of material against the workpiece to support the track.
That works, sort of, with sheet stock. I did that and the cut piece slides around. The sticky stuff underneath is not so sticky. I've looked at all the parallel guides and asked the question on FOG. The guy from TSO responded with the fact they had done considerable research and concluded the best answer was a table saw. I'm thinking that I can get the bandsaw into the realm of acceptability - which is what John is saying. Just too new at bandsawing to be sure that I know what I am doing.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#24
  Re: Advice & Counsel Needed by cputnam (Related to my bandsa...)
(06-19-2020, 07:06 AM)barryvabeach Wrote: Not sure I read your post right, but is the complaint that the handle on the Grizzly BS fence gets in the way?   Someone posted a mod where they relocated the handle,  I did it, it was a fairly easy mod, it relocates it so that it is parallel to the table when open, and faces the ground when locked.  If you are interested, let me know and I will see if I can find the original post on it.
Unless it is the same as GeeDub's approach, I would very much appreciate a link to the mod.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#25
  Re: Advice & Counsel Needed by cputnam (Related to my bandsa...)
(06-19-2020, 10:36 AM)jteneyck Wrote: I'd never want to be w/o my TS's but if I was forced to get rid of them I'd use my BS for ripping.  I regularly cut veneer on my 17" BS with less than 0.005" deviation top to bottom, front to back, so it's possible to get consistent results.  However, the surface quality is still no where near glue ready like it is off the TS, so that's the penalty you pay for not having the right tool for the job. That doesn't make it an unacceptable solution, just that extra steps will be involved to get to the same finish quality.  

Getting a BS to cut straight is a harder proposition than with a TS.  Blades that give the best finish and are capable of doing it for hundreds of BF are carbide tipped.  They cost more than a good TS blade yet won't cut well nearly as long.  


John

Thanks John - do you have a feel for the cost tradeoffs? Specifically, how many more BF will a good carbide 40 tooth general purpose blade last with decent cut quality as compared to a Resaw King? Guesswork is acceptable Smile
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#26
  Re: Advice & Counsel Needed by cputnam (Related to my bandsa...)
To all who have responded - Thank you! It really helps.

Let me pose the additional scenario of stock milling. At some point, one needs and edge parallel to the jointed edge. In the past, I simply set the TS fence where it needed to be and presto - done! The other way is to scribe a parallel line with a panel gauge, rip a little wide, and plane to the line. The latter process is finicky and time consuming for the non-experts such as me. Just another reason I am looking for a quality blade for the BS and then asking if it will be good enough.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#27
  Re: RE: Advice & Counsel Needed by cputnam (To all who have resp...)
So what I did is similar, drill and tap for the handle to be relocated on the cam.  

I have purchased 2 Resaw Kings -  I didn't get either one dull, but hit a knot in one that came loose and the blade broke, can't remember what killed the other blade, but it broke as well, though it may have been user error.  While the Resaw gave a much smoother cut than normal bimetal rip blades on my Grizzly,  my guess is that a carbide tooth blade in a TS would last far longer than in the bandsaw, my TS blades seem to last a very long time. 
BTW,  if you are interested in other upgrades for the Grizzly, let me know,  I have modded mine pretty heavily.


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#28
  Re: Advice & Counsel Needed by cputnam (Related to my bandsa...)
(06-18-2020, 08:57 PM)cputnam Wrote: ...I am starting to get frustrated enough that I am contemplating the purchase of a table saw...

You are frustrated because you have been working without the benefit of knowing what is the right tool for the job. A table saw is essential to a woodshop. Good ones can be found on c/l every day. Great ones are only slightly more difficult to find. Suggest watching for a used Powermatic 66 or Unisaw in excellent condition. Just as with any power tool, simply don't touch the part that does the cutting.
Wood is good. 
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#29
  Re: RE: Advice & Counsel Needed by cputnam ([quote='jteneyck' pi...)
(06-19-2020, 07:27 PM)cputnam Wrote: Thanks John - do you have a feel for the cost tradeoffs?  Specifically, how many more BF will a good carbide 40 tooth general purpose blade last with decent cut quality as compared to a Resaw King?  Guesswork is acceptable Smile

Oh, sure, now you want real numbers.  OK, I typically use a TS blade that costs about $75, run it about a year between sharpenings, and guess I cut maybe 1000 sq. ft. of product with it.  By sq. ft. I mean the area the blade is actually cutting.  My carbide tipped Woodmaster CT BS blade costs $150 and might go two years and cut someplace around 600 sq. ft before it needs to be resharpened.  Resharpening the TS blade is less than $15; more like $75 for the BS blade.  The TS blade can be resharpened at least half a dozen times.  The BS blade maybe 2 or 3.  So if I do a little math, the TS blade costs $0.03/sq. ft while the BS blade costs $0.16.

One would think that a BS blade would cut more square feet before dulling because it has so many more teeth, but that hasn't been my experience.  Maybe it's because the teeth are so much smaller and can't dissipate the heat as well.  

The cut quality from the Woodmaster CT, and the Resaw King, too, I'm told, is exceptional, but still not nearly as good as from a good TS blade.  Cleaning up the cut surface requires more work from the BS if you are doing it by hand.  In my case, I typically run cut edges over the jointer whether it came off the TS or BS so it's sort of irrelevant.  Your work practices may be different, however.  

John
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#30
  Re: Advice & Counsel Needed by cputnam (Related to my bandsa...)
Big Grin Thanks John. Thought maybe an engineer had real numbers. It helps bend the thinking - however tortuous.,
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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