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I have tried a LOT of mortise jigs/techniques over the years and the one I always reach first for now is the Mortise Pal. Very simple, accurate and versatile
https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/mort...tising-jig
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I am in the western burbs of Chicago. I do have a Freud super dado set so I could do tenons horizontally, I would just need to be mindful and have a sacrificial piece to minimize tearout on the exit cut.
My dad had one of the cast iron ones from Delta that I used a long time ago. I recall it was easy and felt safe when cutting the tenons. I have a Delta mortising machine and like the M&T joint strength, particularly on a desk. The desk my wife bought from Ashley furniture looks nice but imho is garbage and she is finally realizing that too.
Thanks for the input, lots to consider.
Tom
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(08-26-2020, 06:28 PM)jteneyck Wrote: It's a lot easier to cut tenons with the stock flat on your TS. Use a dado blade and the fence to control the length. You don't need to buy anything, except a dado set if you don't already have one. You'll want one for 10 other reasons besides cutting tenons.
Or use your router table with the stock flat on the table.
Or build or buy my horizontal router mortiser, which makes mortises, integral tenons, and a whole bunch more.
John
I've done that for one or two tenons. I do have a Delta Tenon jig and when I have a lot of them to do (which is rare), it is faster than using a dado blade. I've read that using a dado blade makes for a less satisfactory glue surface, though I don't remember why.
Cutting tenons on long pieces are problematic because of the ceiling height.
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(08-27-2020, 07:15 AM)Cooler Wrote: I've done that for one or two tenons. I do have a Delta Tenon jig and when I have a lot of them to do (which is rare), it is faster than using a dado blade. I've read that using a dado blade makes for a less satisfactory glue surface, though I don't remember why.
Cutting tenons on long pieces are problematic because of the ceiling height.
Not an issue when you cut them horizontally. A dado blade cuts tenons just as well as a rip blade using a tenon jig. One of two swipes with a shoulder plane and the surface is just as smooth - and never glazed.
John
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(08-26-2020, 08:50 PM)WoodworkerTom Wrote: I am in the western burbs of Chicago. I do have a Freud super dado set so I could do tenons horizontally, I would just need to be mindful and have a sacrificial piece to minimize tearout on the exit cut.
My dad had one of the cast iron ones from Delta that I used a long time ago. I recall it was easy and felt safe when cutting the tenons. I have a Delta mortising machine and like the M&T joint strength, particularly on a desk. The desk my wife bought from Ashley furniture looks nice but imho is garbage and she is finally realizing that too.
Thanks for the input, lots to consider.
Tom
Tom: I actually have a NOS and in the box (box is a bit ratty) Delta jig I got from a hardware store cleanout; I already have the identical jig so i don't need it and was waiting for the CRAFTS of NJ auction to tailgate it locally, but that got cancelled this year. Looks like this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delta-Table-Saw...SwJGRfRWcQ
If you're interested at $50 plus actual shipping shoot me a PM with your full shipping address, it's pretty heavy so shipping from NJ to IL might kill the deal, but I'll check a couple of carriers, the USPS rates are not so good, UPS might be the ticket.
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If you can find one, the old Delta 1172 tenoning jig is a nice one. I have a couple that I use quite often for various things.
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(08-28-2020, 04:21 PM)Bob Vaughan Wrote: If you can find one, the old Delta 1172 tenoning jig is a nice one. I have a couple that I use quite often for various things.
The holy grail of tenon jigs. Been looking for one for at least two decades......
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(08-26-2020, 03:15 PM)mikefm101 Wrote: ... I’ve been using the cut-and-flip method for years but will switch to the spacer method this fall. ...
Mike
Do you mean a spacer to move the stock over (keeps the same face as a reference) on the jig, or a spacer on a dado blade set to make both cheek cuts at once? I've used two Frued 8" combination blades and spacers to cut the cheeks and just lowered them to cut the shoulders. After the initial trials to match my mortise chisels, set-up is quick and easy. Nice snug fit, no touch up required, and the faces are always flush when I want them to be.
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I'm building the cross cut sled designed by King's Fine Woodworking. It has inserts that you can exchange with the cut out needed based on the kerf and allows for the width of the dado blade for the purpose of cutting tenons.
I used to have a tenon jig and sold it with my Grizzly TS which worked fine.
If I don't like the way the tenons turn out on the sled I'll get another tenon jig.
Jim
Jim
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I too have a delta cast iron jig. I actually bought it used from somebody here 7 or 8 years ago. It definitely doesn’t get much use at all but when it does it’s much better than my old fence mounted jig. I have both Domino models now and with two little kids in the house I almost always just use them just for the sake of time. Tenon jigs still pop up on my local craigslist or Facebook pretty often though so I wouldn’t buy a new one. They don’t take up much space so no harm in having one for when you need it.
-Marc