How to trim out this sliding door?
#11
I don't know how long this sliding door has been installed, but there's no trim around it. It looks like there used to be another door here as there is evidence of caulk. The door seems fine. Slides ok. No apparent leaks. The trim is finished on the inside.

I have some tools (miter saw, circular saw, drill) but no table saw so whatever I install needs to basically be cut and screw (or glue). I'd prefer to avoid drilling into the cinder block if at all possible.

What are your recommendations?

Thanks
Paul


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#12
You could put up some brick molding.
Remove that upper piece and fill it in with flat, then run the molding top and sides. 45 the corners.
Looks like you'll need to glue it on. Pure silicone caulk should hold it.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
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#13
Is it an odd height opening or an odd height door? I looks like it's got spray foam between the block opening and the door frame. It should have wood in there, flush with the door frame, inside and out. Then nail the interior and exterior trim to the wood. Like Steve said, get rid of whatever that is above the door and frame it in.
Neil Summers Home Inspections




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#14
(08-30-2020, 03:57 PM)Stwood_ Wrote: You could put up some brick molding.
Remove that upper piece and fill it in with flat, then run the molding top and sides. 45 the corners.
Looks like you'll need to glue it on. Pure silicone caulk should hold it.

Thank you.  Sounds like a plan  I can follow.  I didn't realize until I just searched Home Depot that brick molding was sold on its own.

(08-30-2020, 06:31 PM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: Is it an odd height opening or an odd height door? I looks like it's got spray foam between the block opening and the door frame. It should have wood in there, flush with the door frame, inside and out. Then nail the interior and exterior trim to the wood. Like Steve said, get rid of whatever that is above the door and frame it in.

The door is standard height and there is 1" of spray foam between the door and block at least on the sides.  I'm afraid to pull off that top piece of wood for what it might reveal.  Maybe that's what's holding the door in place.  It looks perfectly normal from the inside looking out.  The foam might explain the problem I had fitting the new screen door in place today.  There's a slight dip in the frame that prevents the screen from sliding smoothly.  Maybe they used the wrong foam.

I've been finding a lot of interesting tidbits every time I peak somewhere in this house because they just create more projects for me.  For example, I don't know why the PO paid someone to install larger gutters over the main entry with covers, but neglected to have the upper gutters cleaned and covered, too.  There was over 2 inches of sludge in that upper gutter with standing water because the downspout (that drained onto the main entry roof) was blocked.
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#15
That brick molding comes in plastic also at HD, doesn't rot.
Im sure these are the same people that have said they got no problem eating cats and dogs but shreek like little girls at the sight of an octopus.jonzz 12/17/13
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#16
(08-31-2020, 05:10 AM)splinter7612 Wrote: That brick molding comes in plastic also at HD, doesn't rot.

PVC trim is my go-to material for that work now.  Easy to work and won't rot.  If you want a quick solution in place that won't demand paint as soon as it's applied, use PVC brick mould.  Put it in place, caulk it, and you're good to go.  

It costs a little more, but it's worth it.  I keep a small stock of PVC brick mould and 1X8 PVC trim boards around the property for repair jobs as the original pine and composite trim needs replacing.
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#17
Did a HD run and got the PVC brick mold. The way I plan to apply it, it will be 1 1/2" proud of the door. What's going to look best for the flat plank that will be above the door (where that board is now)? Should that be even prouder of the molding by a 1/4" or so? Like it's stepped in like a fireplace mantel?
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#18
There does not seem to be a pan; I am assuming a generous overhand on the eave.  If not, consider installing one.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#19
(08-31-2020, 09:09 AM)Cooler Wrote: There does not seem to be a pan; I am assuming a generous overhand on the eave.  If not, consider installing one.

I see some aluminum flashing type tape on the inside that extends onto the tile, but it doesn't appear to extend outside.  I don't know how to install the pan unless the door comes out.

The floor above extends about 3' beyond this door.  It's lightly raining today and 2' in front of this door is dry.

I'm looking the other way.
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#20
(08-31-2020, 12:12 PM)atgcpaul Wrote: I see some aluminum flashing type tape on the inside that extends onto the tile, but it doesn't appear to extend outside.  I don't know how to install the pan unless the door comes out.

The floor above extends about 3' beyond this door.  It's lightly raining today and 2' in front of this door is dry.

I'm looking the other way.

I do think that the only way to install a pan is to remove the door and re-install it.  You might be able to install a drip edge, but I don't know if that is of any help.  So looking the other way is probably the same as I would do.  I should not have mentioned it.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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